will

Pick up any loose goose while she wasn't watching??

Congrats to you both Grant Will

The pressure switch is on the dryer bottle, but it is a combined high/low pressure switch... it detects both a low pressure and a high pressure situation and won't allow the compressor to activate if either situation exists. You can have high pressure if the system is overcharged or you have a blockage, low if you are low on gas. The person recharging the system needs to know what pressure the system operates at to ensure that he doesn't over-gas it. I would first check the compressor clutch is operating, just put +12v to the clutch coil wire and see if the clutch engages. If it does, check that either the low or high pressure is not activated on the switch. If this doesn't produce anything, you will have to check the control panel. If you suspect control panel, manually engage the clutch by putting +12v to it, start the motor and see if the pipes to the compressor get hot/cold. Do not run the compressor for long as it can burn out if there is no gas in the system. The pipes will quickly change temp if there is gas in the system, but will take longer if the gas is low. If you get a high pressure reading from the pressure switch, do NOT engage the compressor. Without the proper equipment, it is rather difficult to properly diagnose problems, I would recommend that you take it to a professional if you don't find a simple problem. I used to do aircons and can tell you that it can be difficult even with the right equipment sometimes, especially with the modern computerised systems. Will

aye..

Some front brakes on earlier E30's will be solid discs, not ventilated, but are the same diameter. Use different calipers obviously. Will

Emma, well done!! I certainly think it was well worth all the stress and heartache over the last while! It is a minter!!! Look after it, no bling PLEASE!!!!!! Will

Back to normal...

Ok, use this link.. http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/3228/picture028mo7.gif It is the direct link to the image.. Go to your control panel, update sig, then click on the "insert image" button next to the emoticons button. You must allow the site to use scripted windows if it asks you (I use Internet explorer) so that you get the popup window asking you for the URL for the image, then copy this link above to the window, click ok and it should appear as your sig. If you are using another web browser, I don't know how to help you. Will

You want your sig back?? Will

I have one, PM me your address and I will post it to you unless you know someone heading your way soon from Keikeri? Chris is somewhere up here at the moment, might be able to get him to bring it down for you if I can find him.. Will

Jees, what have we done???? Another woman driver unleashed on the unsuspecting public !!!! Good on ya Em, I'm chuffed!! Will

At best, a skim and new head gasket. It is possible for the water jacket to blow through to the cylinder via the gasket without getting into the oil, hence no milky sh*t under the filler cap or on the dipstick.. At worst, a very expensive engine rebuild as a severely overheated motor will fry things like the rings which will lose their tension, it will try to heat sieze scarring the bores and frying the ring lands and damaging pistons, can crack the head and harden all oil seals, also try to sieze the bearings if the oil got sufficiently hot and lost its viscosity etc etc.. I would suggest pulling the head, check the bores for signs of siezing. If there are signs of siezing, pull the motor and strip it and check bores, pistons, bearings etc. If the bores don't show signs of siezing, get the head crack tested (MUST!), if it passes, skim it and have ALL the valve stem seals, oil seals etc replaced in the head. At the same time check the cam bearing surfaces for scoring. Put a new head gasket and (hoping for the best that the rings havn't collapsed as a result of overheating), replace the head and run it.. (if they have you will get blue smoke under acceleration.) If you have a badly damaged motor, it will definitely be cheaper to source a good secondhand one. Hope it is just a head gasket..!! Will

Live in Waipapa. This trip was the first time I have been through Dargaville, normally only get as far as Whangarei, but will give you a yell if I am tripping that way again. Or give me a yell if you are going that way and I'll try to meet up with you. They are replicas as far as I can make out, no schnitzer name anywhere on them. Can never have too many E30's !!!! But my 'vert goes sideways too... and donuts.. Will

Definitely wasn't me, maybe it was Scott (Palazzo)? He has an almost twin to mine, don't know what wheels he currently has though.. How about a pic Scott? We need a twin pic sometime.. I don't usually drive mine if I have to put the roof up.. rather use my motorsport. Will

Don't waste time on mine.... get yours and start working on that !!!!! Stop dithering around !!!! Will

Ever met our Emma?Thanks for the comments, try to keep it looking good.. now to wash it this morning !! Will

Building a decent 2.7 is not difficult, putting an M50 into your e30 is a lot of work, do the 2.7 IMO.. Will

Went touristing today and ended up on Bayley's beach near Dargaville. One dune formed quite a decent backdrop for the 'vert, so took this pic... and a close-up for good measure.. Found it goes very well on the beach, lotsa fun, now I have to wash it.!!! (pics taken before the fun started!!) Will

I was out doing the tourist thing today so only got onto this just now when I returned. There may be a simpler way to repair it, other than cutting open the skins, but depending on where it has come loose (or broken). What I suggest you do is to remove your speaker and undo the door wiring, get it out of the way, and then,using a mirror, look up the cavity through the speaker hole. I did this earlier and found that the bracket is held at the very front of the cavity between two panels and is spot-welded to the OUTER skin of the door post further back toward the rear of the car. Difficult to describe it and impossible to take a pic of it hence the suggestion you have a look up there for yourself. I think it may be possible, with careful measuring, to use a self-tapping screw or two, drilled through the outer panel and into the bracket to fasten it back to the skin. That is if it is broken off here of course... If it is broken where it is sandwiched between the two skins, I think you will have to cut loose a part of the outer skin to re-attach it to the body. I didn't look up my 'vert one, just used one of my donor cars which is still intact so difficult to say what may be broken. So have a look up there... Will

It is welded in several places inside the door post. I had a brief look on one of my donor cars yesterday. I have had it in a couple of cars in the past but they have all been donors so I have never attepted to fix it before as i just dumped the bodies. I will attempt to figure something out today and come back to you but I am certain you will have to cut open a section of panel to get to the area where it is welded in. It will probably involve removing the door and fender, neither of which are too difficult to remove, and cutting in from the outside, not from the inside (I think..!), but still a biggish job overall.. I need to find this out as my driver's door retainer on my 'vert is just starting to work loose (caused by a siezed up restrainer) so I might as well figure out how to repair it sometime .. Will

Imagine what that would sound like !!!!!

I think you are talking about the bit I have circled in the photo attached?? I have disconnected the restraint from it for clarity. If it is this bit, there is no easy way to fix it if it has come loose as it is spot welded inside the door post before the outer skins are attached. It is normally caused by either rust or a lack of lubrication on the restraining mechanism which then puts quite a force on the bracket. If it is the restraint itself, it is removable from the door by taking out 2 10mm bolts. Will

don't tempt me.. other projects first!!

Hello Ken, back from downunder? Hope you lot had a good holiday. Regards to the ou vrou.. Tried the above method a couple of days ago, didn't work.. so I have now put my Gary hat on and beaten the old code plug to death.. hahahaha. Had an old OBC with a blown display that I forgot I had (handy to be a pack-rat), removed its code plug and inserted it and now all ok again. Will PS Gary, you need 3 pedals..