will

Anyone got a working aircon compressor from an e30 that looks like this? Need one exactly the same as I couldn't be bothered to change the pipes. Post or PM me if you have. cheers Will

day 22... maybe the scruffiest multicoloured mo on the planet... thought I would drop in and share it with you movembers. Will

Who died and made you god you little creep? You should make sure of your facts BEFORE you start shouting your wiseass mouth off, both on trademe and here on the forum. As for you smokenbaby, so should you, and keep your smartarse texts to yourself in future. FACTS.... I bid on that auction BEFORE Grant did, I placed the second bid on that auction, and I made reserve at $150. I in fact got raped by Grant and his merry little band of wankers. But I didn't complain or send stupid texts or get on the forum and berate others. I was away on course at the time, returned friday evening, and got my brother to put an autobid on as I couldn't get to a computer. I had no idea at the time who was bidding, and didn't care as I wanted those diffs, esp the 2.94 ratio one, for my project car. Didn't really want the 3.64 ratio and would probably have offered it to bimmersport members but now I will keep it and it will go into my Cab. So have a good day and I'm out of here. Will

It is a SA model, has a sump guard..those window strips are easy to get off without damaging them btw.

have got race buckets in my 'race' e30, not sure what Sam is up to though..

I have chamged 4door to 2door and cloth to leather on the same type of seats, but I am sure the frames on e30 are different between normal and sports and doubt whether you can change a normal seat into a sport one simply by swapping the coverings and foam... easily anyway ? Suppose anything is possible though.. Will

You should check that the eccentric adjusters are directly over the valve stems. If not, you need to move the rocker shaft to a position so they are. If they are not directly over the valve stems, they will wear unevenly and make adjusting the clearances impossible. These eccentric adjusters also wear flat spots on themselves even if they are directly over the stems after high mileage. This also makes it difficult to set the clearances. I would remove a couple on each bank and check for wear and replace all if you find any flatspotting or uneven wear. I know a few tricks to sort these problems out but they are too difficult to explain here. So if you are ever in Kerikeri, drop in and I'll show you.. Will

sounds like you pulled the gearknob off and left the guts of it behind. That plastic thingey should come off if it is the inside bit of the gearknob.. Maybe a pic of this mysterious plastic bit thingey would help diagnose your latest dilemma? Will

Unfortunately you have to remove the inlet manifold to get that pipe off. To do it you need to depress it first and hold it down before taking the manifold off. The reverse applies to install it, ie it MUST be put in place BEFORE you put the manifold back. Iit will not fit after.Will

Whats your mat doing inside your bellhousing???

Black, deep dish Alpinas, topless....

now there's a plate for Emma's new beema..

Try turning the steering wheel full lock in one direction, may give you room to get loose. If that doesn't work then jack up the drivers side and do the same thing, turn full lock. If that still doesn't work, get Gus along with his hammer... Will

Kerry NSK bearing 6201 V V C M is what I have used in all m20 I have done. It also fits just about every other early bm motor according to the book. I keep a whole lot here for spares so have taken the part number off one of the boxes and measured actual bearing. According to my vernier.. OD 32mm ID 12mm W 10mm Cost about $6 each max. Will

Manifolds from pre f/l and f/l have the same mounting to the head for both 320 and 325. As long as they came off an M20 motor they will fit across the range. (including 323 also) The flange that the exhaust bolts to differs.Pre-f/l normally has 3 bolts and f/l normally has 4 bolts, but there is bound to be some mix and match. Also, as Gus says, there are bore differences between the manifolds. So the extractors will fit as long as they came off a m20 motor but you will have to have the rest of the exhaust modded to fit to the extractors. Will

Suprised that the SA is imperial, all cars there were normally in kmh. Pommie cars were normally imperial. Smilies seem to have been a SA only thing too. The headlight thingy is for dipping the headlights when towing a trailer as the rear on them is quite soggy and dips quite severely when a boat etc is hitched up. They were very popular tow vehicles over in SA and most had hitches fitted. But this dipping thing was not very robust and I havn't seen a car with a working system for a long time. SA used to export e30s to most of the world at one time, the BM factory there is huge. So yours could have been assembled in SA and gone to UK market. Another thing unique to SA e30s is the long range tank fitted to all models, that is in the boot behind the passenger seat. Distances there are long with petrol stations far apart in some areas. Also some of us tended to drive rather fast so a standard tankfull would not last very long on the open road... Your SA model probably also has leather recaros and cruise control and A/C? Will

Pretty flash mobility scooter old man.... well done!! Now go show those young whippersnappers how it's done.. Will

Now there is something about an empty engine bay Gus can't seem to resist....

she gives new meaning to the words 'dumb blonde..'

Have spare domes Graham..But you can buy orange bulbs for instrument clusters anyway. Will

Just call Gus with his famous hammer.... Seriously, you have to remove the cluster. I have tried to do it without removing the cluster but gave up. Take off the steering wheel to make removing the cluster easier. You need to GENTLY lever them off. I use a pair of long nose tweezers, slide around base of needle, use a piece of thin hard plastic under the points so you dont damage the face of the dial and pry gently upwards. Replace by placing the needle over the pin, press down gently, then align the needle to the zero mark and press more firmly to lock it in place.Be careful as the needles are easy to damage/break. Will

Looks sort of like a hopped-up Nissan skyline... does nothing for me..

Ok, some more info. On your distributor vacuum advance/retard you have 2 pipes connecting to it. The pipe coming off the vacuum unit which is on the side closest to the distributor (and pointing towards the distributor) will go up to the connector under the throttle housing on the side closest to the firewall, ie facing the throttle housing from the passenger side it is on the right of the intake opening. The other pipe coming off the vacuum unit is facing away from the distributor and that goes to the other connector under the throttle body but on the side facing the front of the car, ie rhs facing the intake opening viewed from the passenger side. Refer to Andrew's first pic, or Jamiepo's first hi-res pic, the connection to the fuel pressure regulator goes to the intake manifold on the driver's side top, as does the line from the throttle vacuum control and one to the vent off the rocker cover (there should be a t-piece here with a small takeoff for the pipe to the intake manifold). Too bloody wet outside to take pics for you at the moment but I will if you are desperate.. Will

This is the troubleshooting list out of the Bentley manual for the E36. Your problem, ie engine fails to start falls under column 'a', so check all bits that have an 'a' next to them. Your motor should be the M42..? according to Bentley manual anyway.. Seeing you have no spark, first check for 12V at the coil with ignition on. Check HT lead from coil to dist cap for continuity. Check coil is not faulty. Check rotor is not going to ground, check rotor cap is not cracked and leaking to ground. Check crank position sensor is functioning and in place. Check your main relay for DME is working. Your car should be able to send fault codes. If you have OBD 1 (which you should have), see the last 2 attachments, they will tell you how to use the feature and use the code displayed. Hope you can read them, is the best I can do for now.. have fun.. Will

your (mine) 2.7iS M-Tec 2??... definitely!! But Gus sooooo wants to suck mine for M-Tec 1... Grant, gutted for you mate. Keep at it, it will be worth it when it is all up and running. I am watching your progress with more than just interest. When I finally get my garage up I will continue with my 2.7 project which will most likely get turboed if you are successful.. (because I can pinch your setup... hopefully anyway.. ) Come on Sam, you know you want to turbo our car !! Will