M3AN

Now this will be interesting! GLWS. ?

So, spill the beans, no need to keep it a secret since you've already let the cat half out of the bag...

Wut? You're saying I can have fast and reliable? ? Where? ?

Not mine... Black E36 M3 Evo with high km's (think 250k miles) and some mods; coilovers, big brakes, e46 M3 front arms, camber plates, genuine GruppM intake, carbon fibre bonnet, Z3 rack, probably more. Interior shows its age but I've seen worse. Never raced (on a track at least). Engine (S50B32) has a warped head (badly overheated) and is out of the car and in pieces, no work done. Might be too much of a project for the owner, they've yet to decide. I thought $10-12k but I might be dreaming... What's the community opinion? I appreciate that without specifics and pics the range might be wide but I can work with that to start with so give it an earnest guess.

Has anybody been able to look at this? It's still broke (and annoying). In fact, if nobody changed anything then admins should actually be quite alarmed and tracking the cause down should be a priority in an age of cyber awareness and the need to understand all changes, planned or otherwise, to your online environment. If nobody knows perhaps raising a ticket with Invision is a smart idea? The Homepage link in the navigation banner is also broken... it links to http://bimmersport.co.nz/index.html/ and that's a recent change also.

I believe the red side is the temp at which the oil reaches it's operating viscosity, yes. Obviously it can stay at that viscosity at much, much higher temps than on the chart.

What type of work that added up to ~20k?

No, it's 100% not necessary. 0W will provide "required" lubrication at -40*C... it't not necessary, and indeed inefficient, for any plausible NZ condition. Here's a good chart (for the 'w' specification at least):

"LTW" M3, 38k IIRC. What I suspect happened, because they're adamant they got a "proper" valuation, is that the valuer thought it was a genuine LTW because they did a Google image search and then looked on BaT, and they've convinced the idiot owner it is such.

For sure it's different and I realise all the 1M haters say it's not a "real" M car and of course if you run 100 pounds of boost your 135 will be faster but it's still the best (and only) widebody 1 series you can buy and it's the tits.

Okay, so I got back to the diff... In park, both rear wheels in the air and handbrake off, can't turn the wheels by hand. Thanks for the advice on that test Glenn. And for further confirmation: https://itstillruns.com/identify-limited-slip-differential-7805308.html In neutral both wheels spin in the same direction. Conclusive? If not, the fact that I've never seen the DCT light blink surely adds weight, I'm not driving like a nanny. Now, what ratio? Could well be stock but I just don't know.

They did me a solid. I'd not heard of them before but they were sweet to deal with. And I got a bargain.

$45k for a time bomb? No thanks. Subframe needs proof of doing, VANOS and pump hub need proof of doing, SMG pump and accumulator seals need proof of doing and then it's a $35k car at best. All these people selling 'quick' BMW's seem to be dreaming, whether it's an E30 M3, E36 M3, E46 M3, CSL, Z3M etc, etc, they're crazy prices. How many are actually selling? E60 M5's are selling for less than 25k, that 1M will sell for less than 50k... more realistic.

This thing just keeps getting better, and my smile wider. The pretty slick auto with these paddles seems to me to be the best of both worlds, with a bit of imagination it's both an auto and a manual, a poor man's SMG if you like. The new shifters are from https://www.nelsonracingwheel.com/ and I had to take a bit of a punt as they never got the e87 or the 130 in the US so compatibility was a risk. In the end I opted for the "pre-LCI" ones for my LCI and they proved to be the correct ones. You disassemble the existing paddles, swap in some new framework and attach the actual aluminium paddles - all of the original BMW electrics and micro stitches are reused. Then you swap the down (push) wire on the left and paddle into the up (pull) terminal and voila right is pull up, left is pull down and you can't press either paddle. Took me about 40 minutes. The action is firm and has a satisfying dull 'click', the aluminium paddles both look and feel great, I couldn't be happier. They felt immediately intuitive to me, I'm already comfortable reaching for them with opposite hands if I'm turning the wheel a lot. New lock nut set from @Lewis91 turned up in less than 24h, how sweet is that? A few more small things still on the way, it's working out well for me so far. Edit: oh and bonus, any BMW or aftermarket DCT shift paddles will work with these new switches, pull existing ones off, slide new ones on, 60 seconds.

BMW Performance Alcantara steering wheel insert... and look closely... ...because proper conventional paddle shifters... And they work as expected, total WIN! ??

I also replaced the tired looking kidney grills, they look worse in person than the photos (much like the rest of the car actually). And too yellow. With these matte black ones which fit perfectly and I think look great... Seems I need to adjust my bonnet a little. ?

The aerial that came off, worked perfectly, looked tatty... BMW "sport" replacement, longer but tidier...

lit

Well that's good to know... do let me know if you can find it on RealOEM or similar site... I could not... and web results from random pages suggested 120d (although I had a low level of confidence in that info). The wheels spin in the same direction when they're both unloaded (rear in the air) handbrake off and car in neutral - video on prior page. Are you suggesting I [need to] do it in park as well?

According to what I read you won't be disappointed with the Koni's either. I'd probably still recommend proper springs rather than the BS BMW+Bumpstop solution.

Yes @Jordy - it seems I got some nice surprises with the car: exhaust (which you can see is beautiful) has the Y pipe mod and resonator delete so it's not just something thrown together, that's how it should be done coilovers - completely missed by the dealer selling the car but also has a LVV cert and Eibach ERS springs and all the hardware on the shocks looks top notch LSD - needs more investigation but I'm a believer If the dealer knew all that I wouldn't have walked away with it for what I did. ?

It's only the glass that's different right? You could get a LHD set painted and then swap the glass at a later date? Just a thought.

I wasn't aware the rear shock mounts were an issue, what's the lowdown on them? Koni's will be fine, you'll need to dump the OEM springs and bumpstops though or you'll still pogo down the road. My preference is Bilstein + Eibach because the two companies work so closely together and their B12 kit's aren't just mix and match, they're made for the specific vehicle they're intended for. Not sure on price but if I ever need to replace my suspension it's likely to be with the B12 kit (I don't need coilovers).

They're from a bespoke JDM workshop called "Orange Wolf" - hard to find much info on them but they seem well made. Exhaust is from the same place and is well made. They're brilliant really, even if they're well worn. I found the stock motorsport suspension (on other 130's I tried) to be downright awful, even dangerous at speed. Upon further reading I understand BMW absolutely cheaped out on the suspension and use linear springs with struts that ride on the bumpstops which is such terrible engineering I'm embarrassed for them. If you don't need coilovers (most don't) then the Birds B1 or Bilstein B12 kits are the go.

Yes. I'll take them. ?