Mike

exactly. At current prices I could get 10 M10's with this years course costs Andy, I just went with LC-1 wideband. Its waiting in the states along with a few other bits and pieces.

I'll have a look at home and see what pics I've got. Most of it went together pretty well apart from thoses bushes. Just get yourself a few jacks to raise the subframe into place, and 2 people makes job sooo much easier. Gus is just... well... Gus

Turns out 256xxx KM and turbo are too much for the stock head gasket. Not exactly sure what caused the failure. I'd been having starting problems, cause was busted rotor/cap, so whether this could have exaggerated the problem? Also, wastegate was sticking at one point, have suspicion it was the boost taps fault. Boost hit close to 14psi before I realised but didn't notice any probs immediatly after and was only that high for fraction of second. After fixing and starting car I went for drive, nothing too brutal. Stopped at lights and noticed steam coming from exhaust pipe. Temp was normal, oil was fine but water was bubbly/frothy. Was still driving fine though. Basically, I'm not sure whether it was the higher than normal boost, 8psi with poor tune, or something else responsible. Its not too big a deal, just means 2.0L low comp motor will go in sooner than planned. I'll use my head (better flow) if I can determine what the CR will be, all I know is it will be lower than stock. I've also got wideband o2 on the way to rule out mixture problems.

I've done all this (grant modified subframe though) as well so feel free to ask away if you got any q's. I had to trim the lips on the IE subframe bushings. They were just too big to fit in with their kit. Also, wheel alignments are an absolute c**t. Tire shop wouldn't touch mine until I trimmed down a spanner, theres just no room to move a standard one. Lastly, because there is so little room in there I found it easiest to assemble the whole subframe assembly and then install the whole lot into the car at once. PITA but easier than trying to slide the trailing arm bolts through.

Cool. Looks like 318i head on this 2.0 block will lower CR just got to find out how much.

ah, could be of some use.

wicked program, is it just repeats or new episodes?

I'll take it for a hundy if no interest on TM. TradeMe fire-walled atm so can't see auction. You in welly? Mind keepin it till easter when I'm back up?

Is it just me or have there been a few people changing user names lately? Any reason or is it just the new black? Those who do care to leave something saying so in your sig? unless you got a dirty history or some other reason to remain annon

Mine went all right, (kept up with 320i). Dam reliable, I gave mine 50000km of abuse (when warm) with just oil, filters and valve adjustments. (256xxx km for me now) As for price, for me would depend on condition more than anything. A mint one could get 3.5K while a dog will have trouble getting 1.5K. Still seem to be sort after, I've had a few people approach from time to time asking if its for sale.

1st 2 weren't up to much, no. 3 very good. Undecided on how real the servo bit was. Lovin the "science experiment" on no.4, where the hell did they get the budget for that?

I've always had an idea that engines M20 and later shared similar bolt patterns, wasn't aware about different lean angles though between M20 and M42. Good to have that cleared up though. Does the M4x have same lean as M5x engines, eg could you have used a E36 328 box with less work? I'm 90% certain that M10's are different but can take an M30 box without too much work. Might need to get gus and his hammer on the tranny tunnel or something like that.

yeah, it did. absolutely amazing. cheers again Rolland

They aren't by any means 'bolt on'. You'll need custom adapters/mounts and some work to get suitable rotors to fit. Use audi TT rotors, 312x25 (312 is right i think). They need to be re-drilled and the center machined out a mm or so. goes without saying you'll need bigger rims to fit that setup under. Get a bigger MC too from e28 and bias should be pretty as e28 rear calipers use same size piston as e30 I haven't decided whether to do that setup or go for smaller/lighter setup with alloy 4pots and vw rotors

yip, my main bug with that car is that he should have just brought an E36 Still very well done though, there wasn't much left to change.

+1 (if you can get in there, just weld some steel or an old allen key in there)

for the gauge you'll need a tee, thread for factory oil sender is 12x1.5. So obviously you need a tee with male and female threads in that size. From memory the aftermarket sender is 3/8 npt (check on the sender itself though). You wont find a t with these fittings so you'll need some adapters or to tap one or all of the threads so they'll work. I also had a small leak here because the adapter face wasn't big enough for a washer, bit of thread tape and its all good.

even then I think there are problems with rod lengths etc. Do what stephen said and chuck a 323i head on. From memory the later 323i have bigger ports.

socket can't have walls too thick and also you may need an extension on that breaker bar. It took 2 of us each with a meter leverage to loosen the nut.

welcome to the site and sounds like a deal. Let me know where and when.

how hard do you drive? any particularly bad/windy roads you drive on often? Pressures and alignment all good? I was getting further than that with shocking camber and toe

exactly, as a % the price increase isn't much really.

wicked cars and some great photos, not a fan of the M3 cabbies tho, something just not right about them.

I went recon route but only lasted for a few months (was honed as well). Ended up getting a new master cyl for $70 from BNT

Both small and med case will bolt right in, I've just done it, so let anyone tell you they aren't interchangable. You may need to swap speedo sender and adjust driveshaft length as I found out after spending a night swearing at the new diff cos it wouldn't fit. also PM'd ya about spare diff I have down there.