M3_Power

10 official imports 8 grey and 2 black ... majority were delimited and all had aircon, two without radio. One of those grey ones now live in Australia. One black one was completely written off and reshelled into a racecar. The only NZ new black one lives in Canterbury and have been for a while. The highest mileage one lives in Queenstown I believe. The driver training car that was written off was a pre-production car - and this is NOT one of the 10 official imports (by the way, if anyone knows where this DME is, I would like to grab the DME dump from it as it runs a pre production tune - the person that bought the wreck did contact me a couple of times and I believe the running gear now lives in a racecar) I stopped counting a while back, but I know of 3 grey imports (all in North Island when I asked last - many years ago) and 2 black (one in North Island and one in South) imports from the UK. So I guess unofficially there are only 8 NZ new cars around and 5 imports that I have seen in person. The one is Wellington is for sale after talking to the owner last month (the Turners Auction car / Drug kingpin Police impound car) - not sure if it has sold or not. When you buying yours Amber?

Petitioning the Chinese?? LOL Sorry dog lover here, but that's going to have zero effect whatsoever. The only way you'll stop Chinese from eating sh*t is if there's a disease that result from it and people start dying. But then again that'll only last as long as the next wave.

Been a while since updates ... Decided to do a bit of IAT testing with my spare airbox (and gives me a chance to clean the one in the car properly with it out of the car!!! - given the spare airbox came off a racecar, everything IAT related was already done (blocking of original placement and new pick up) all I had to do was make up a connector line so it'll be plug and play. I wanted to see if the IAT relocation actually made sense in this car so I ran some data logging on it. Also removed the intake flap motor at the same time of course from the DME so it is error code free. Given what I have seen with this modification it definitely makes sense to relocate the IAT!!! Next up, exposed ITBs ... just need to look into the vacuum side to make sure it'll run correctly.

Bump Side by side comparison with the BMW Motorsport gearknob

I got curious and ordered two of these to compare to the BMW motorsport version. And they are indeed different. Keeping one as it's already opened, but this one is for sale. Unopened, brand new in packaging. $80

Cheers guys, yes this is way cheaper than what you can order one for from the parts dealership or from overseas. The gearknob is supposedly NLA also. Cheers Nathan, PM replied.

I believe they do - they have a thread inside to screw onto a shifter. They aren't actually designed for SMG cars, I just put one in my car for LOL ... but it is a tight enough fit that it doesn't come off the SMG shifter. Technically designed for shifters with a thread - 12mm hole..

Genuine items, but no box or packaging. $100 each.

9/10 it is an installation error not a tool error. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=464871&highlight=Soft&page=2

The moment you put up a post about making a profit on an OE car you intend on bringing back is the moment that profit margin disappears.

Haha cheers!!! I also have the ability to help you convert your stock M3 engine and engine/gearbox looms into CSL specs as I actually have brand new CSL looms that you can reference from to give it that real authentic CSL conversion. Incuding spare air rails for Map conversions. I "MAY" also have an airbox for sale .... Still pondering over this one and haven't made up my mind on it yet.

I wouldn't be so sure ... lol

Time to unload some surplus gear. This was the first CSL converted DME I made and I have had it running in my car for a while now to test that it functions correctly and perfectly. Bear in mind this was my first attemp, the soldering is obviously not as good as what I can now do, but everything works as it should without issue. Has the H-Bridge soldered so will be capable of running the motorised intake flap on a genuine airbox. I will code this to your car with whatever modifications you require (EWS delete, sport mode memory, different throttle mapping, warm up lights change, speed limit removed, dyno mode limit removed, burble and pop, 6 speed manual instead of SMG, or even just a full virgin non coded DME ready to be programmed by dealer tools - I can even clone it as a spare DME for your CSL if you are that way inclined with all proper VIN, ISN code (or the ability to resync to your existing EWS module or a spare EWS module). $800ono NB: You will need to convert your car to MAP to run this DME in a S54.

Technically speaking you don't even have to go through your insurance, you could pursue the matter through the courts system, get Judgment and then take that to the at fault party Insurance company and say pay up. But that's pretty poor insurance service if they are making you do all the work. Whenever I've had to file a claim that wasn't my fault (or actually even ones where it was clearly my fault) on my policy all I do is fill out a form, provide all the information that the Insurer seeks (basically how it occurred, who was involved, what damages are sustained by all involved and declare I wasn't drunk at the time), drop the car off at the panel shop and go and pick it up in 2 weeks or whatever time it takes and the car would be back like new. Oh usually in between I get a "your excess is waived" phone call from the Insurer as they have determined I was not at fault - or a I need to fork out my excess first and they will get this back for me on my behalf, or I am liable for my own excess as it was my fault. Insurance should be simple - the good ones at least. If there's ever any arguments it is usually in relation to whether new parts or used parts will be used, or whether a certain part should be repaired or replaced (and that's when a good panel shop will go to bat for you - as I've explained to you on the phone). I have always said that Insurance premiums means jack sh*t until you have to make a claim ... and the good policies shine through when you do. Don't just look at the premium you are paying if you want good cover.

Yes these are E46 M3 SMG only. Carbon ones spoken for pending payment, the alloy ones still available.

Very cool!! Can I buy one haha By the way, just in case anyone is wondering, the official Motorsport one is NLA, so it has ceased production.

In like new condition Well made carbon laminate shift paddles - perfect fitment $80 Also have a full aluminium pair brand new for $60

Wrong, in multi vehicle pile up the last car in line is the one considered at fault and pays for damages for all the other vehicles. This is because it is considered the one that failed to stop and the inability to apportion amount of damage done from car to car or extra damage done by the last vehicle to pile up, so being the last car in a pile up is perhaps the worst position to be in.

Sorry but that makes no sense. The yard can't assess how much it'll cost to have it repaired .. the assessor doesn't know how much it will cost to be repaired. The only person that can do that is a panel beater estimator (who will usually need to get quotes for genuine parts so it won't be straight away) - they then submit this to the assessor who then look at the car and cross check the estimate and say yes that's reasonable or no that's not so we are going to let someone else look at it. It makes zero sense for it sitting at a yard or a shed waiting for the assessor. Something doesn't add up. I have NEVER had an insurance company tell me to leave a car at a yard (or home for that matter) waiting for the assessor to come look at it. It is always asked to be sent to someone that can properly assess the cost of damage and repair.

I NEVER have a damaged car towed to a yard - always back home or if the desired repairer is available straight to them. Yards are like vultures they will do anything to have the car sent to their mate's repair shop or to have the assessor write the thing off and buy it off them for next to nothing. I'd just get on the phone and have the car towed to your panel beater and get them to liase with the Insurance assessor directly - this is the best way, as it is in their interest to see the car repaired so they will get onto it and bargain with the assessor in terms of repair cost and probably have a quote for the assessor even before he or she sees the vehicle. Don't leave it at the yard - get it towed ASAP to the panel shop. Even if they end up writing it off the Insurance should cover for towing to and from place of damage to place of repair (even if it is from yard to panel shop). I have had cars towed home and then towed to the panel shop subsequently and everything was covered by Insurance. Personally I would also tell the panel shop to send you a quote before they send it to the assessor - that way you can see whether the repair cost is inflated or whether there are parts you can source cheaper elsewhere. Here's an eg. of an accident I had in a Civic Type R many moons ago. The car was insured for $13K and it was a heavy frontal (my fault completely - stupid giveway sign and someone running a red light which I couldn't track down) - my full cover paid for the damage to the other vehicle (I think it was some $5K or $6K). The Civic was sent to Honda's repair shop and the damage came out to be around about $10K to repair with all new parts. The Insurance wanted to write the thing off, until I looked at the parts prices (which were about $6K) - I told the insurance company that I could source half of the parts at much less than the indicated and they would be genuine parts that I would happily accept responsibility for, this brought down the parts bill by about $2K and under the mandatory write off value. The vehicle was repaired and parts supplied (with proper invoice from a friend in the parts business). Moral of the story - if it is close to write off value, look at the parts costs - there's often 10-15% margin there that you can easily save and it could mean the difference between having a car written off or not. p.s. Not every Insurance company or repair shop will of course accept this, but if you are a good negotiator and point out to them that this would be win win for everyone involved (insurance company paying less, panel shop gets the job even if they lose out on parts margin, and you get a properly repaired vehicle) then there's a good likelihood that you can save a car from being written off.

Car was repaired to like new by what was once Euro Collision (new boot, rear bumper, full new exhaust system and hangers) Luckily most of the impact was on the lower bumper and exhaust, the boot had an ever so slight dent but insurance paid for it. I couldn't careless what happened to the drunk driver, but I believe the Insurance company took him to the cleaners to pay for the 5 figure repair bill (I think it was $18K all up including parts)

Overall diameter is 50.1mm (East West) - 48.4mm North South (bottom part where the stalk hole is has a slight flattening surface) Dimple diameter is 7mm Dimple depth 1mm Dimple count from top to bottom 1, 6, 12, 14, 14, 12 Shift stalk ID 12.36mm

Sorry to hear Amber ... this must be devastating!! A story to lighten the mood perhaps ... When I had my 03 M3, it was rear ended by a drunk driver in town with just 1200km on the clock (imagine my pain, as I had only taken delivery for no more than a week) ... the bastard promptly took off, so I had to chase after him exhaust hanging and scrapping along the road sparking. Fun chase though. Zero points for the Cops in Downtown Auckland (where I managed to stop him right outside the station) for not even bothering to take a look at a drunk driver on the road right outside the station. Hope to see it rebuilt and better than before. There is no such a thing as damaged cars, just ones waiting to be improved upon : )

It's the same overall height as the stock SMG gearknob. Just the angle of the photo I think and the fact that the stock boot is quite short thus giving the impression it is quite high. In actual fact it isn't. Yep, a Repco rubber mat I cut up into the same shape as the stock ones LOL. Probably not, but if there was a CAD done then I am sure it could be CNC'd? Haha I have no idea how rubber components are produced. I suppose if done on the cheap you could technically scan the thing, flip it and create a 3D printed mould, and inject it with windscreen silicon haha! It's just a rubber ball really. None ... it adds weight being rubber (vs plastic stock item) : P I am taking the "L" out of the CSL. But I have some titanium screws to go back into the car so hopefully that counters the weight gain!!

LOL I had a feeling not many would know what this is!!! A piece of motorsport history that is!!