M3_Power

^ shhhhhh you are giving away the other plate!!!! LOL

Sometimes you just need inspirations!! I actually think the dark blues and British racing greens are the ones that can pull the amber corners look off. I was originally thinking about it for the CSL until I googled photos of it on silver grey and promptly changed my mind!!

I once said never, I guess never say never?? When you don't get invited for test drives, just buy one LOL. What can you do when the wife says "yep this one" His and hers : )

Beautiful!!

Amber, this needs Amber corners hehe

N55 : P

Mind me asking how much you picked up the use suspension for? Reason I ask is the stock suspension isn't actually that expensive to buy new and they are not rebuildable so the market for used sets is actually fairly small. I sincerely hope you didn't pay a fortune for these!!

Ok three methods to run this: 1. Pure Alpha N only (i.e. default Alpha N map that exists in all DMEs) Need: - IAT conversion harness (as stated above I can teach you to build one) - you will need a spare MAF sensor (roughly $150 second hand), E36 M3 IAT sensor. I am happy to do the scaling re-calibration on your DME for free. - Bosch EV1 female plug (about $10 from ebay and some spare wiring and pins - probably look at wreckers if you want it cheap). (there is of course always the option of just unpinning the pings from you MAF sensor plug. 2. Alpha N as above plus tune - Not sure what the tuning cost is, but I am not able to do this. So need to ask those in the tuning business what it'll cost plus dyno time. 3. Full M3 CSL conversion You will need - CSL Map rail or similar (like the US TTFS tuning rail utilising a GM Map sensor which is cheaper than the CSL one) - these cost about $450 - CSL DME conversion (can be done with or without flapper control) If HP DME roughly $800 to get one plus flashing with stock CSL software. If using non HP DME you will need to convert the DME into a HP version (no HP DME are roughly $400 -$600 depending on where you get it, conversion fee is roughly $200 without the flapper control) If you want a fully converted CSL DME add another $150 for the H-Bridge conversion (if doing it on a non HP DME, then you may also want to convert the onboard MAP sensor which is roughly $60). - CSL MAP sensor is $600 - CSL intake snorkel (if you can find one) is about $800 from memory, pricing might have changed since I last checked two years ago. - then of course you need to factor in the time and knowledge needed to convert your standard engine harness to CSL spec to take on the MAP sensor, IAT sensor, and two plugs for operating the CSL intake snorkel. If you don't run the snorkel then these two plugs are not needed and the flap can be coded out of the DME and set to open all the time. Hope that helps.

Ok a few have PM'd me asking what extra costs are involved in getting this to work, I will post up a detailed list of the minimal needed and approx cost in this thread a bit later when I get some time (vs replying individually!! Sorry!!) Cheers

Did you realise this v.2 is only 2 chassis number away from v.1 !!!

Want this gone ... $1200 take it! (airbox and filter only - no Snorkel or sensors)

Allan is correct

That's part of the main engine/gearbox harness If you want full engine harness and engine/gearbox harness photos have a look at this thread with photos I supplied showing the differences between a CSL harnesses and non CSL SMG Harnesses (page 1 and page 5 in this thread) http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=494616

Seems like a lot of trouble for a Link ECU and trailer ... if it was a Bosch or Motec it'd make sense. No offense intended for those running a Link : P Good to hear the car is back however at least!! I have always been baffled by why people steal racecars ... it makes almost no sense.

^ More the reason to get the V10 when you don't have to pay for the petrol like Alex is saying!!!! Heck I can't think of a better reason to do it to be honest LOL!! What better way to enjoy that daily commute to work and back!! Alternatively Alex, you could do another E46 M3 but destroke it to 3.0 and rev it to 9000rpm : )

When I read this I immediately thought get the V10 M5 LOL!!!!! Honestly, I have finally come around on this car now ... it is basically a F1 engine in a road car. And they are a bargain at around about $35K for one with under 100k km (compared to what you'd pay for an E39 M5 or even an E46 M3!!!) .... I have even been tempted to get one myself now that they are so cheap to buy!!

^ this

For which market?? I think the one above is from Japan? Also I am fairly confident when I ordered mine brand new in June of 2003 and took delivery in September that the CD was a very expensive option I had to tick.

CD players were never standard so nothing suspicious about that.

Overall running hour is recorded in the MSS54 together with a few more things.

A F1 engineer would say you lot are all wrong trying to measure fuel economy on volume rather than weight.

That looks like the one near my house ... if so then it's parked on the side of the road all the time day and night so I wouldn't be surprised it was hit by someone careless or racing through that street (which happens often).

^ correct

It's launch control procedure (the turning off the engine part isn't, you are suppose to hold the brake and floor the throttle, let go of the lever and hold on)... it's in the manual. If you are on a hill, pull the downshift paddle back and it'll hold it for hill start.

The repair was top notch done by Euro Collision (now German Kollision Haus) and being an Insurance payout it was basically a no expense spared repair (less the exhaust heat shield lol). Honestly, take it to any other place and they probably wouldn't have replaced so many parts. I sold the car because the warranty expired and I traded it for a CSL.