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M3_Power

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Everything posted by M3_Power

  1. Have now had another go at soldering the H-Bridge onto a MSS54HP DME and have succeeded with better tooling and much better looking soldering joints - still by no means perfect but hey with hand tools not too bad and at least it is now heat sunk to the board. Reasonably happy now with my ability to solder these on for functionality (if you don't mind obvious hand soldering joints haha!!)
  2. No that's the transponder to the EWS module. The module should be under the dash. Black or white box with yellow or purple plug. I've been doing some reading on EWS2 as it seems some have had trouble cloning keys on this module - especially if it carried the Motorola 2D47J chip. It seems when you pull data off this chip directly it corrupts the ISN and the EWS no longer becomes sync'd with the DME and apparently no way to resync either. I am still trying to confirm if this is the case as the AK90 tool specifically states that it can work with the 2D47J chip, you just can't power it up like the other EWS modules. I am going to grab a MSS50 start up kit with keys and EWS modules and test this out as it seems rather weird that it would do this.
  3. Rear speed rating is 95Y manufactured 2909 (29th week 2009) Fronts are quite a bit older 5004 (50th week 2004).
  4. Now selling the wheels also ... I bought these from a forum member thinking they would clear the big brakes on my car as the catalogue said they would, turns out they don't : ( So letting these go for what I bought them for ... $800 firm (wheels and tyres) Original for sale thread from said member: http://bimmersport.c...?hl=+m3 +wheels Fronts are Michelin Pilot Sports 225/45/18 - I believe borderline wofable with majority tread measure grooves measuring between 2.81mm-3.1mm Rears are Dunlop Sport Maxx 255/40/18 - loads of life left in these with majority tread measure grooves measuring between 5.8mm -6.3mm Pics of tyres
  5. Youtube e30 ignition lock removal ... then e30 ignition lock rebuild ... it's all there on the Internet. Very easy to do, you just need a hair clip and key. In fact I've watched so many videos online now it's scary how easy you can learn to steal a car just by watching a couple of youtube videos!!
  6. Happened to chance across a DME I purchased already with a Superchip tune in it ... with the help of the guys over in the USA I now have the full definition file which I am not allowed to share so I can dissect the map and see what's done to it. Going to import this map into another DME (non HP, as it was on an HP DME) and see if it makes any difference. Ray ... keen to test this one out - maybe a before and after dyno? According to Superchip website it's good for 15hp and 14nm.
  7. Buy car ... rip engine and gearbox out (and anything else your heart desires - I am thinking the bodykit also) .... sell shell with old engine ... then proceed to go YIPPPEEEEEEE down Ponsonby road : )
  8. K line with your car. But both will work. If you get D Can, just check that pins 7 and 8 are bridged. Some of the D Can cables now come with an adaptor that bridges pins 7 and 8, whilst there's a new one that has a switch on top that you flick over to bridge 7 and 8. As far as I am aware you need the software to switch between K line and D Can on all versions of the cable - if the seller doesn't supply you with the software PM me and I'll send both possible versions over via email.
  9. You NEED this Jooles!! http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/specialist-cars/competition-cars/auction-792907370.htm
  10. Love the lip! Suits it in my opinion and doesn't look out of place.
  11. Have confirmed how to change the final drive ratio coding (and gear ratio) within the DME for SMG cars that have changed final drives. Have also located a local source for BDM headers ... can now get them for $2 each LOL!!
  12. M3_Power

    ews 3

    If I get some spare time between diaper changes I'll take a looksie haha!! Although I have to admit I hate trouble shooting wiring issues. EWS 3.3 isn't that hard to bypass (starter side) Pins 1 and 2 shorted and you are done. It's the EWS to DME side that's harder to do without knowing what to change in the DME coding. Believe it or not BMW actually builds in a lot of "debug" modes into their software - however as far as I am aware the current MS42 and MS43 EWS bypass basically involves soldering an IMMO emulator into the DME. The other known so called bypass is actually a quasi virgininsing of the DME to allow it to re-pair with another EWS module. I am lead to believe that this can be done via Tool32 - I have however not looked into this in depth as I have no MS42 or MS43 to play with - I might acquire one however as the MS43 carries the same EPROM chip as the MSS54. Also the EWS 3.3 modules are easy to clone if you have the correct tools. I've cloned my own EWS 3.3 module in my car with an used EWS module and it fired up fine without issue. Funny story the other day when I was describing all the EWS manipulations that I've been up to with my own car to a BMW tech and his response was "so who's E46 M3 are you going to steal?" LOL
  13. M3_Power

    ews 3

    Really?? The only difficult part to code on an E46 is the instrument cluster ... The rest is fairly easy and straight forward. Which part are you having issues with???
  14. I would say you dodged a bullet there. Had a friend that made a large order with them that turned custard ... Took ages to get sorted.
  15. M3_Power

    ews 3

    What are you trying to achieve? To remove EWS completely or to have extra keys coded to the EWS? The EWS3 is a two part security. The first is the EWS looks for the correct key transponder so the starter motor will turn (car doesn't crank) - this can be easily bypassed with a quick wiring change The second part of the EWS is the pairing of the DME with the EWS unit and the rolling code that's generated - this is harder to do without the correct flash tools to remove EWS from the DME - without the correct pairing it stops the DME from providing fuel or spark on start up. (i.e. car cranks and dies)
  16. Two options 1. Come grab the tool from me together with the software and install it in your own laptop and do this by yourself if you are confident enough to do so (I can show you how it is done on a spare ews unit) and ensure no one else has your EWS chip bin file ... no charge, happy to lend the tool out to established respected members on here; or 2. Unbolt your EWS from your car but leave it plugged in so you can drive it (bring your own USB stick) ... come over to my place, unplug it, I'll show you how it is done and if you are happy with the process, we'll do a reading of your EWS and provided there's already open key slots, I don't actually need to write to the EWS unit itself just the key transponder (e.g. 5 keys open in the EWS and you only have one key ... you just write the key number of the open slot to the transponder together with the ISN passcode). I will only record the EWS chip bin file onto your own USB stick not the hard drive of my laptop so I don't have a copy of it at all (so no suspicion that I can clone your EWS unit and steal your car LOL!!). My number 021 281 0155 - located in East Auckland, Botany area. p.s. It takes literally about 40 seconds to read the chip off the EWS ... another 20 to manipulate it and then a further 60 seconds to write back to it. The key programming is about 40 seconds or less from the bin file. So a fairly fast trouble free process.
  17. You can get the key cut at Armstrongs ... or any lock smith that can cut an inner track key. They charge $45 as it's considered 2 track cut (one track each side - so 4 cuts). Once that's done you can pull your EWS unit out and read the main MCU chip. You'll get a bin file to the full chip read (1K) and then do the changes there - open or lock a key, add a key, change the EWS info (mileage, vin) ... and then you write the EWS ISN password to the key transponder and car information. Very easy and simple process. I might do a quick write up if I can grab some free time. But it is not difficult to do.
  18. buy a cable and do it yourself ... it's not rocket science. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49522-e60-e61-japanese-to-nz-fm-radio-frequency/
  19. Didn't even realise it was full ... Cleared now .. what's up?
  20. MUST be cheap as chips or free haha ... Does not need to be functioning, no EWS needed, just the bare DME required. Must look like this below:
  21. Okay I see these listed on trademe for $600 each from an independent - Bridgestone shops sell these for $750 fitted - huge price difference. But I just got a rather what I consider slightly rude email back from this independent, that I'd rather now go spend money elsewhere. Anyone tyre sponsors here that can supply these at $600 each fitted?
  22. it's not a hidden menu function - you need an OBD2 cable and NCSExpert software to action the change http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49522-e60-e61-japanese-to-nz-fm-radio-frequency/
  23. Basically the same ... the transponder chipset in the EWS 2 and EWS 3 are interchangeable and code the same way. The difference is in the rolling code portion of the code, but that doesn't affect the way you code the keys. Here's what I have purchased and found working and good seller to deal with: Rechargeable keys, remote and transponder package: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EWS-Remote-3-Button-Board-433MHZ-CHIP-7935-and-Case-BMW-E46-KEYLESS-KEY-/271405038818?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item3f31003ce2#ht_1474wt_827 Replacement battery type: The person selling is called Topfob - but his listings seems to be down at the moment. He ships from the UK via snail male - so be prepared to wait. In my opinion, the first key type is better as it is rechargeable and the guy ships a heck of a lot faster (order to receipt usually within 5 working days) than the second seller. Do tell the person to ship the 433Mhz type ... he got confused and sent me a 315Mhz for the US market the first time around. I've told him now that NZ uses 433Mhz, so he shouldn't get it wrong again!!! You can also buy the transponder chips from ebay .. Just search PCF7935 ... they are quite cheap in lots ... so if you ever felt like having all 10 keys, you can!!!!
  24. Okay .. we all know official keys from BMW cost an arm and a leg and we all know there are alternatives that's much much cheaper. There are guides out there that teach you how to do this on your own, but nothing that really explain what's what, so here's a quick run down of what's possible and the rough costs of doing so. Ebay diamond key with remote chipset and EWS transponder - The good ones cost about NZ$45 landed. To get the keys cut it'll be between NZ$30 - $40 ... Then it's a matter of getting hold of somebody with an EWS chip reader and transponder programmer that can code the keys to your EWS module (or if you feel like it, buy the tool yourself .. cheapest I've seen are about NZ$80) Realistic cost of a new working key with remote and ews functions enabled = under $100!! So here's what to look for: Remote chipset - I have personally coded both to my own car so I know both work brilliantly and correctly. There are two types out there, both work perfectly fine and will respond to remote unlock and locking coding to the GM5 module: The difference being one has a replaceable battery whilst the other has a rechargeable via the ignition coil (or simply throw it on your Oral B tooth brush charger stand to charge!!). Left chip set is the rechargeable type - notice the coil - right hand side chipset allows frequency change from 315Mhz to 433Mhz (NZ type!!) Notice the rechargeable Panasonic Battery on the left chipset Transponder - there are two types EML10030A (which is what you will find in the factory keys with remote) PCF7935 (which is what you will find in the valet keys and earlier larger remote key sets) Both type of transponders work and will flash with the tools correctly. My experience shows that the PCF7935 transponders are easier to work with. Here's what a PCF7935 looks like: What the key machines do? Basically you have to open up your EWS box and read the main chipset off it - Each EWS has 10 keys max, that's all. The tools simply codes the ISN password to the transponders allowing it to be recongised and rolling code passed on. You can obviously also lock and unlock keys from any of the 10 sets or write over it with a new transponder. Easy. EWS modules can also be manipulated to provide new VIN number and mileage record. If anyone needs assistance, I'd be more than happy to help.
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