M3_Power

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread....p;highlight=MDM Start reading

HIGHLY doubtful that is a CS. It's missing MDM (M Dynamic mode).It's missing quite a few things to be a CS. Looks to me to be a very well spec'd E46 M3 individual.

Can I please have the picture of the whole car and what parts are coming off it? [email protected] thank you.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593591 I am speechless Anyone happen to buy anything?

haha don't tempt me Ray ....

okay so over the years I've accumulated various tools to work on cars, couple of really handy ones that I have in my possession for BMWs involve suspension bushings. One is the Rear Trailing arm bushing removal and installation tool for E36 and E46 and also the Front Control Arm Bushing removal and installation tool which works on the E30, E36 and E46. I will also have the s54 cam timing tools and the Vanos calibration tools shortly. I have a friend that is very capable of making replicas of these tools - was wondering if there are any interests out there for them? If so can I please get an indication of interest and perhaps how much you would pay for each?? 1. RTAB removal and installation tool: 2. FCAB removal and installation tool:

I want http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=418262

If it weighs more than 1600kg it's a fail no matter what motor they put in it ...

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/24280571/ns/te...teen-repellent/

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...183&ed=true

Welcome to the forum Noel!! Great purchase by the way - I have to say I was nearly tempted myself to buy this and turn it into a race car!! Few things on your plan that I would point out. 1. Cage - make sure the cage builder pick up the 4 mounting points on the rear diff carrier (no rear floor crack worries for the future) especially on a racecar. Also gives you the option of running solid rear subframe bushings for the future and a spherical RTAB setup (i.e. basically rose joint the whole rear end for better rear end control) 2. A good set of suspension will make a world of difference to the E46 M3 - as a comparison (Mike Eady in my CSL did a warm up lap of circa 1:17.6 on the old AC Schnitzer setup around Hampton downs on REALLY old Cup tyres and a very good wheel alignment setup, I did a 1:15.8 on KW 2 way race shocks with NO wheel alignment and even older Cup tyres and very relaxed driving (not to mention I am no where near as good as Mike) - there's easily another 2 seconds in the car with alignment and fresher rubber and a bit more setup work - and this is in what is essentially a road car with full interior and aircon blasting on high : P). 3. Don't skimp on brakes, it is a heavy car no matter which way you look at it. Stick with the branded stuff like AP Racing (Robbie's CSL runs APs and I've driven the setup, it is phenomenal with the correct brake pads (Pagid RS29s) - the Alcons are very good also but slightly less pad choice.) 4. Keep ABS - Mike's E92 M3 racecars runs aircon during endurance races ... he says it is the best thing in the car second only to the ABS in the wet. 5. Only go for the shorter diff when you are used to the car. 6. Check the vanos bolts : ) They come loose overtime. Happy racing : )

I'd put the money away for future maintenance and up keep. About $4000 to have it done decently - cheap isn't always good when it comes to wraps. That's a lot of money on quite a few maintenance items but bugger all if it's a major item like the dual vanos going kaboom ... and it'd buy you a couple of sensors on the E46 M3 when they crap out (which they will - starting with the lambda, then the DSC pressure, then the cam position and next the wheel speed sensor). If the brakes or clutch are in need of replacement (and these won't be covered by your warranty) then you are looking at about $600 a corner and about $1800 to do the clutch

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=406133204

Just to confirm the rumours - I just got offered in writing 1 of 12 cars coming in next year - 2 are sold (black and Orange) 10 spots remain. So not quite the limited production it was made out to be. Limited however in the sense that this will most likely be the last lot coming into NZ. So grab one if you really want one - or not if you believe the rumours that the next 1M will share the same engine as the F series M3 : )

Not entirely true - the pre 2003 cars also have a slightly weaker floor design - BMW changed the floor design during 2003. The cracks are mostly due to abusive use and a lot of them to do with SMG not calibrated regularly (or run on s5 24/7) but also a lot of it down to lack of maintenance with the rear bushings. I don't recommend the Turners reinforcement plate personally, but I do recommend the official BMW fix - with the structural foam. I've seen the Turner plates fail and future rust issues that have caused the whole floor to come apart from the unibody - it is very ugly when it does. Epoxying the plates is also pointless. I recently had the structural foam injected into the CSL as a future preventative measure as I don't have any fractures in my car either (but that's keeping on top of maintenance and bushings). When the floor does fail and BMW weld in a new floor (it's a huge job, I've seen it personally), the structural foam is also used to further reinforce the floor. After seeing a couple of cars with this issue and seeing the foam procedure I'd highly recommend that you have this done regardless of whether you have a cracked floor. The product is made by Henkel and was used on formula atlantic single seater suspension mounting repairs and a couple of other 'race car' applications. The foam actually has a dampening characteristics as the epoxy isn't actually a rock hard material but with a very slight give (it also doesn't expand contrary to popular belief). What it does is it fills the void within the rear subframe floor (between the bottom and top layer) unifying the rear structure to provide reinforced torsional rigidity in what is otherwise a very poorly designed rear floor mounting support. The foam kit isn't expensive either and you only have to reinforce the rear left - or if you like both the left and right like I have. It only requires drilling of one 10mm hole in the rear top floor for the expansion foam part (there are two foam parts to this repair) - and this is subsequently blocked off with a factory plug returning the car back to a factory look - the foam is then injected into the primary layer of the bottom floor through a pre-existing hole already in the unibody. The first crack always appears in the rear left, then front right (looking from the rear) - consistent with torque load towards the rear - so SMG or not it will happen to all cars, eventually (if you've seen the floor in person like I have you'll understand straight away why they fail in such drastic fashion) If you want to know more, feel free to PM or email me. p.s. great work by the way!!! Loving the tidy up you are doing to this car!! p.s.s Also I don't agree with the modified suspension contributes to the floor cracking myth - FYI the harder the setup the less likely the floor will come apart - just look at the number of CSLs vs the number of stock M3s that have cracked floors - there have been very few CSLs with cracked floors (and they are all SMG) and any that have had cracks had either heavy race use (with solid subframe bushes) or have been seriously abused and used for drifting with little to no maintenance (I know of one race CSL with a weld in cage which did not tie into the rear subframe mounts without any cracked mounting and this car was used for two full season of racing running stock standard rear subframe mounts but very heavily sprung and solid rear trailing arm bushings). It's a torque induced failure, so theoretically speaking the less twisting action you've got back there the less likely it will happen - in fact there's actually a high percentage of failures on completely stock standard cars vs modified ones.

km mean jack sh*t I agree - and I know for a fact that this motor has had a BMW dealership rebuild under warranty. However the T-boning and ensuing write off by the insurance company was some 8 to 10 years ago from memory when E36 M3s were fetching $35K+?? That's a pretty decent hit I'd say and according to my friend that car was in his own words "f**ked" - hence his surprise it was ever put back on the road.

Don't be. I know the person that used to own this and the Insurance company that wrote it off when it was T-boned at an intersection. I showed the old owner of the advert and he was very surprised it got put back on the road - VERY surprised.

I have noticed that the E9X M3 chew the rears lot heavier than the fronts compared to the E46 M3 (which is the other way around - the rears get bugger all wear at all and last at least twice as long as the fronts). Must be your lead foot then haha ... Josh FYI - my brother managed over 45,000km on his 335i sedan with the PS2 and that was with daily commute out to Whitford - so they do last a fair bit of miles without too much drama.

Seriously? Do you like do a burnout every weekend or something? I have over 25,XXXkm on my car since new and have had three full on track days at Pukekohe in the dry and the tyres still had more than 70% of tread on them front and rear when it was sold (5mm+ tread). Your alignment must be completely out of range for it to wear out in such low km. By my estimate the PS2 will last at least 35,000km+ without any issues (and that's with a couple of track days thrown into it).

BMWNZ certainly does on some parts. A lot of parts I quoted above are 'retail' prices from abroad compared to retail prices from BMWNZ ... I've seen as high as 350% mark up on some parts ... others like you said, around 30%. to the original poster, I'd also read the report with a grain of salt, chances are it has been written as a worst case scenario to also cover the writer's liability should something go wrong in the very near future. I'd take a friend well schooled in cars and have them give a second opinion also. But looking at your list, the following I would DIY (with some of my comment on how hard it would be to do for a novice) - great opportunity to save some money and learn (trust me you'll enjoy and love a car more when you get your hands dirty and work on them) Battery 10 years old / load test borderline (you'll need to find someone with a GT1 to register the battery) Spark plugs worn (easy) Brake fluid flush due (easy) Brake shudder on motorway (easy to replace) Rear brake pads low / all discs low (easy) Passenger wing mirror adjustment not working (fiddly but easy) Front tyres worn on edges (take to a tyre shop) Recommend wheel alignment (take to a tyre shop) Left front and rear rim buckle / all rims curb damage (take the wheels to a local repairer - about $50 each to straighten depending on extent of damage) Left rear window regulator noisy (moderate, but great way to learn to take things apart - expensive part however) Left rear carped damp - water leak inside ? (leaks are notoriously hard to track down, perhaps a door seal or window seal) Oil dip stick breather hose split (easy) Front brake hoses perished (easy) Right front sway bar link play (easy, just torque it up properly to 44ft/lb) Some board tools missing (easy to track down, but probably not necessary) Normal wear and tear on body and interior (Small dents, etc) (call a dent magician) Wheel speed sensor and interface faults in ABS - Not present CAN wheel speed faults in Transmission control unit - Not present Road test in wet condition (sensor fault most likely, easy to replace) The rest you'll need special tools or access to a good hoist (unless you are comfortable on your back on the floor with the car up on jack stands - not recommended for a novice)

If you were a DIY sort of a guy or actually know anything about cars I'd say go ahead and buy it if it is a steal. If not, then you are buying into more future worries by the looks of things. Lot of the stuff on that list can be DIY'd if you don't mind getting your hands dirty and at the same time learn a bit about cars (actually much more enjoyable when you can and know how to tinker and fix them - and have the right tools also). But yes, modern BMWs are seriously expensive to fix - a lot of it I think is down to greedy dealers charging 300% mark up on parts and charging nothing less than $120/hour on labour and diagnostics - take that away and it is no more expensive to repair than a high performance Japper. One thing I really fear when it comes to failures on BMWs are sensors - they just seem to fail on a regular basis due to poor design or subcontracted parts - and seriously expensive to replace. (and if ignored, these will usually eventuate into larger mechanical faults and bigger bills) Let me give you a run down on just a taste of some sensors I've had to procure for a couple of guys over the years that own E46s. DSC Pressure sensor (retail $380+GST - private import $120) Lambda (range from $550 to $700 retail - private import $220) Actuators (retail $370+GST - private import $220) So be prepared for a car of that age and mileage to throw a few sensor tantrums and be prepared to fork out about $500 per sensor. Good luck !!

Anyone have one sitting around? Just after the multifunction piece - any condition is fine but the securing tabs must all be intact and not broken.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...490&ed=true

bump

The full retail price for one of these is $111,900 (including a $2000 on road cost - honestly this on-road cost just seems to creep higher and higher every year!!). Kinda of nice that BMW is no longer keeping this a limited production run ... epic car (whether you like it aesthetically or not).