jimbo01

Thanks - that sounds like the sort of thing - couldn't find it in the manual though.

Good news - I set it up using the autoset-up mic, connected mysky Hd, PS3, named the inputs, and it seems to work perfectly. Tried all the modes. Volumn only goes to +12db though, which is loud but nowhere near as loud as the DSP-A1. Wondering if it's on mute or some limit. I guess i need to carefully read the manual. The remote is pretty confusing although i've figured out how to make it work the recevier controls. Now I have to track down my Pioneer BDP-LX70a blu-ray player which I won on Saturday (paid Monday). Last contact from the seller was Sunday. I'm eager to get it hooked up to the LX60. Speakers - if i could find a good pair of Mirage M1's, M3's, or OM6 main speakers I'd sell the POLK RT2000i. The Mirage have a fnatasic 'real' sound in my opinion. I had M790's but a friend's kid pushed in the tweeter cones so I sold them and got the Polks. I'd also get a POLK CS400i which is the perfect match for the RT2000i speakers (or a CS1000 which includes powered 6.5" inch subs either side, which otherwise is the same speaker as the CS400i. I would not sell the Mirage MCSi centre speaker though - it is awesome- and one day I'll find me a pair of those Mirage speakers. The POLKs on the Yamaha DSP A1 sounded much more relaxed. They now sound sharper, clearer - quiet different (too sharp with phase control on). I'm using Kimber cable from when I had the Mirage speakers. I originally ran the Mirage through a Sony amp and they sounded like crap. The Kimber cable improved things, but it wasn't till I bought an Yamaha receiver that we go to expereince their full capability. Anyway with the Pioneer LX60 I've returned to the the brand I 1st bought when 30 years ago.

I've sent him an email but got no response. if it works I'll give his + feeback, and if it doesn't I'll give him the chance to put it right. I'm running a Mirage MCSi as the centre, (after a Polk CS400i) and POLK RT2000i speakers as the main, and 4 Mirage bi-polar surround speakers as surround and rear. I did power it up and the lights worked!

These things were totally unsafe.

It was courier post over night delivery. How someone selling HiFi could package any amp like that defies any common sence. Packed that badly insurance wouldn't cover it anyway! As you say even a sheet of bubble wrap from the post shop would have done a MUCH better job, as would rolled up news paper. I'll test later and post the results (fingers crossed!)

I'm upgrading from my trusted Yamaha DSP A1 which can't handle the Dolby digital HD sound, or DTS HD sound. I bought that from a hifi store in Whakatane on TM and it was excellently packaged and has working flowlessly ever since, and is still like new.

I got my 'new' Pioneer Home Theatre amp today. I confirmed the seller had the original packaging before I bid. It arrived in the in the original box but NOT in the original packaging. The only protection was some of that accoustic filler cloth that goes inside speakers. Seller sells hi-fi in New Plymouth so I assumed he would know how to package up a 17kg receiver. The visible damage is that one of the 4 feet has been broken off (shattered the mount and the screw is at 45 degrees to the chasis so it's taken a hell of a knock!) It's a Pioneer VSX-LX60 and it's fairly sophisticarted with THX2 certification, 7.1 channels, HDMI switching, iPOD connectivity etc; so it has a lot to go wrong. So after spending $1315, including $65 for courier I am feeling gutted. I havn't tried it yet but I'm hoping ALL the features still work when I power it up tonight. This seems to be my luck this week. Yesterday I found the rear trim I bought for the E38 was missing the screw tabs (ripped off) on the right side.

When ever any bastard parks in my reserved car park we look them up and if they are not someone I know, and they don't answer their contact phone I get them towed. You see name (usually some company), a phone number (which no one answers) , and contact address (usually a POBox.)

Anybody can get your details already guys. New law makes it harder.

Cutting into the speaker wires from the OEM stereo and feeding into the pioneer amp, which has a fair degree of control over sound using hi and low pass filters, gain control, and a 12db subsonic filter at 20hz. I'll take a preout feed from the 1st amp to a 2nd amp which i'll run in bridged mode to power the two kicker subs. Fitting the pionner crossovers in the doors may be a tight fit, but I'm still thinking of getting a pro to do the door speakers. I'm nervous about stuffing up the door trim.

what is a spray bomb?

PM suspension the H&R sponsor of the suspension forum on this site.

Thankyou - the subs were on my office chair this morning. I liked the bloody sharp price and the willingness to help out another Bimmersport member. I've used the metal plates that come with the speakers to close off the spare inner cutouts in the enclosure. The Kicker 08CVT65 is an impressive little speaker; build quality is good, and it's a really solid and heavier than expected.

Damn - didn't see this and sold the damn things for $100 on treademe to just get them out of the house.

This does look pretty damn good, and may represent the ultimate mix of practicality, perfromance, and economy. I did consider selling my 740 to buy this. I'ts been advertised for many months. Instead of gone nuts doing projects on my 740. If i had a spare $17,000 this would be mine!

I'm retro fitting an rear blind to a 1999 NZ New E38. I thought this would be relatively easy BUT it isn't. I sourced my blind from a trader on trademe who was wrecking a 750i. I asked for the Blind and Switch. I got the blind with a promise thay would find the switch. They never did. The blind didn't have any mounting bolts, and the plug has beeen cut off. It's only got two wires going to the blind motor, how hard could that be? Turns out it is controlled by a 'switch centre' and blind plug pin 3 goes to pin 14 of the switching centre (white wire) , and pin 1 of blind plug goes to pin 15 of the switch centre (yellow wire). The blind switch goes to pin 20 of the switch centre (whitre/yellow wire). The blind motor is totlally controlled by the switching centre and all the switch does is cause it to change state (up, or down). Unfortunately the switch centre is only fitted if the car had heated seats, active seats, or a rear blind. Mine had none of these so I need the switching centre control unit + associated plugs + a switch. Chances are I'll end up with switched for seat heaters as well, and no seat heaters. Anyway for now I'm going to just connect about 3 meters of wire to the cut blind plug and leave it under the rear seat for another day. I will physically fit the rear blind. i have sources the mounting bolts fdrom another trader from Christchurch.

Yep thats the issue. When I rolled back the rubber conduit I found a the wires had been cut and rejoined at some stage which makes getting anything through their even harder. Possibly my boot lid has been replaced at some point, I can't think of any other reason for these to have been cut. I suspect the wire for the ledt plate light didn't like being man handled and now I'm getting no voltage across the plug. The really bad news is that it runs all the way to the light control module in the front of the car near the diveres door. I really really do not want to have to re-run this wire. I havn't monted the camera with silicon yet as I may want to be able to use the hole if I have to run a new wire. Mucking about with your BMW is hours of fun.

Hi - another memeber from Upper Hutt - well done.

As part of my upgrade I did the research to idnetify which wires to cut into (for standard business radio) Left front + yellow/red Left front - yellow/brown Right front + blue/red Right front - blue/brown Left rear + yellow/violet Left rear - yellow/gray Right rear + blue/violet Right rear - blue/gray The 2 charater alphabetical codes for the BMW wiring colours are as follows (and not what what i expected) BL = Blue BR = Brown GE = Yellow GR = Gray GN = Green RT = Red SW = Black WS = White VI = Violet

I'm making progress. My mission is installing subwoofers using the OEM factory sub housing. I made a paper template of the profile of the speaker I wanted to use and there was no way I could get it to fit. The flat suface on the sub enclosure was made for a speaker only 140mmin diameter, and only has a 127mm cutout (1st pic). The Kicker speaker I'm using needs a 140mm cutout, and a flat surface of about 158mm I thought I was at an impass as I had been thinking of making spacers using custom wood. However I went hunting and today found a set of plastic 25mm spacers at SuperCheapAutos. (pic 2) I got them home and modified the heck out of the outer plastic ring with a hacksaw and file to make them fit over the two outer speaker cutouts, and the moulded parts of the subwoofer enclosure (pic 3) They are now both fitting perfectly (pic 4) Next step will be application of lots of epoxy and screwing them to the enclosure. I'll make sure they are well sealed with a few costs of epoxy. Anyway by the weekend I should be ready to actually install the speakers and install the enclosure in the car. I'm installing 2 Kicker 08CVT654 6.5 inch subs, and blanking out the two inner cutouts. I am aniticpating not being able to use the factory speaker grills but then again I'll think of something.

I guess we have differnet tasts - the others look like crap to me LOL

Welcome. I'm a fellow E38 fan - mines an 1999 740. Great cars. For good lowering see this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=311178775 I think this trader is the H&R springs sponsor 'suspension' on bimmersports. No good sending himn a PM as his inbox is always full. These lower 50mm in the front and 30mm in the rear. Thinking of getting a set but want to check what AMI (my insurance company) will do about it. I'm currently adding reversing camera, navigation, rear sub speakers, electonic blind, new amps, and replacing the door speakers on my E38. Think preventitive maintenance - get a transmission fluid flush (next on my list), do your oils changes, check the cooling system, if it seems diodgy (hasn't been repalced) a new water pump and radiator isn't expensive, but overheating your engine is.

Raceappeal seem to do an E38 version of the E39 Msport front bumper. Race Appeal [raceappeal@gmail.com] Visionmotorsport do one that seems to be better quality, and is what is on the car pictured. I want one foir my E38.

Welcome - I drive a 740 E38

So if she just rang the cops how did she know it was a set up? This and a hundred others like it are just hoaxes.