Allanw

I guess a vacuum leak could cause it, but I would have thought it would log a code of some kind before it got lean enough to cause preignition that the car can't adjust for, like fuel trims or O2 sensor issues. If it was running hot, it could do it too, but usually the cause is the Map-control thermnostat going open circuit and that should log a code too. I've heard of Vaons problems causing cold running issues (common as!) but I don't know if it usually causes pre-ignition. Probably best to have someone (who knows what they are doing!) look at real-time data while it's doing it and see if anything stands out.

Haha - lots of people say that about parts and costs etc, then have to buy parts that cost even MORE for their toyota, but believe that a BMW part is more based on a stor they heard once. Some parts are expensive. Some really aren't! A lot of "faults" are also from poor maintainance, or poor repairs. An E39 with HEAPS of safety features and gizmos etc SHOULD break more than a corolla with one airbag and manual windows. The E39 is complex, which is why it handles so well and rides so well at the same time (when well maintained anyway). The corolla is going to handle like a 3 legged goat forever (mine did from new, and it was the same year as my E39!). Dad used to have fords holdens and toyotas - not interested now, he's had his BMW for 14 years - the same one! Regarding the door lock, did you know this (LHD shown): If you mechanically turn the lock until the key is flat it should unlock the door mechanically - probably all that needed doing. Door lock actuators have been known to crap out, but sometimes the mechanism just need a good clean and very light lube (probably more likely a actuator though!) I've heard the locks are not designed to be used manually all the time - they seem to crap out faster. Dunno if it's true though. If the remote doesn't always work, try to re-sync it - google it for your key type - although I'm not sure if that even works for the Jap import type - If your car is a Jap import, it will have an IR remote instead of RF, and will only work from about 2 metres away half the time anyway, I hear. ALSO, if you have convenience opening and closing enabled you can press the button to unlock, then press and hold it for ages and all the windows (and sunroof) will open up. You can also use the first position of the door lock to do it, and the same idea works with the locking button to close everything Regarding the mirrors, they can have a hard time - they get hit and repaired dodgily and may not work right, or you could have a switch fault - if the door gets wet while it's open, or the window is left down, water can creep into the switches and cause all sorts of problems, because they are flatt, they can soak up a fair bit of water if they stay wet a while! Obviously this can affect the windows AND mirrors as they are all the same switch. Also, as said in previous post above, the wiring can break in the door or pillar where it moves all the time, or if it's been accident repaired (even minor) the wiring or door jamb connector could be iffy too - especially if clips were broken and not replaced. Also, be aware that the auto tilting mirror in reverse ONLY works with the side selector switch in the passenger position (or is it drivers? I always leave it off anyway) OK, that's my words used up for the day.

Brent - Wurth probably visit you - They sell the glue to do it yourself, if you want to.

Thinking about this... I might be wrong, but someone will pipe up... Isn't that where water would leak OUT of the well under the scuttle panel??? The rain gets in through the vent under the windscreen, that rust hole is where it's rusted as some water has been sitting and the battery has leaked at some stage, and there will be ANOTHER hole inside the scuttle well, where the water is getting into the car - you need to get inside that well and find the hole that goes down into the car. I think.

NOT silicon (RTV), if you ever want to paint anywhere near it! You can buy proper seam sealer, like the factory would use, PU is usable, but the paint won't stay on it forever. Seam selaer is a bit harder and less flexible/rubbery. You can get brush on too.

PA SOFT BMW Scanner 1.4.0 is the easiest way to do it, although it can be done in NCSexpert I think (I only do it via BMW Scanner though). BMW Scanner will reset the lights (although you can do it via the cluster too) and can be used to change the litres of fuel between oil changes.

Good to hear! Prolly don't (shouldn't) spend much time at 1100 rpm. I wonder if it's from the high pressure combustion pulses of the diesel at such a low freqeuncy? Hopefully I get a lot of time to decide, before mine craps out! I assume it would be a bit less noticable in a 6 cylinder petrol anyway - higher frequency and lower combustion pressures... Dunno! Thanks!

Hope everyone has a great day tomorrow! We're having a damp subtropical Christmas it seems - it's about 1045 PM currently, Still 20C, and 98% humidity - fortunately the easterly wind is keeping it bearably cool feeling. At least I've managed to get about 12,000L into the water tanks. I've had the Christmas pork in the oven for 14 hours, only about 12 to go The poor E39 is going to get messy heading to Dads family lunch and then the in laws place out in the sticks. I wish everybody a safe and happy day! Be careful if you're traveling. Season Greetings,

Hi David, I wouldn't recommend an oil flush - if the engine is dirty, it may release crud that blocks the pickup. If it even works! The ones that did work used to cause havoc on some cars when the crud blocked off the oil pickup or things like oil spray bars. Better to use a good oil that may help clean things VERY slowly. The M54 motors seem to collect sludge under the filler cap. I thought ours was a bit grubby (firm brown very small lumpy bits) and that it may have had a lack of oil changes in the past. When I did the Vanos seals, I took the rocker cover off and was actually stunned at how clean it was inside - seriously shiney with just a very light clear golden coating on the non-moving parts etc. The plastic cover itself was a bit grubby, but I assume that's a "cold" bit too. Same when I did the oil filter housing gasket too. I brought a new oil cap and fitted it just after the oil change, and it's done about 6500 kms and already has some tiny brown lumps - I guess because it's a "cold" part of the engine, the oil vapours condense there. And for Qube: I think the 5W-30 is A3/B4 anyway (or can be purchsed as such anyway). It may not meet the BMW LL-01 spec, but it's obviously not a bad oil. I don't like the 23,000 or so kms our car would run according to the standard SI interval!

hehe! 1/2 a star economy rating - claimed 23.9L/100kms. Awesome.

Hey Clinton, Any progress? Did they find the sound? Did you only had the clutch done? Our clutch still seems fine, but I want to decide what way I'll go before it craps itself. Did they put the noise down the the Solid flywheel? Is it just sound, or vibration too?

Maybe it was 7K yen for the gear knob swap??? NZ$100

Is it like a Camry?

Must have been your twin! Don't hink it had the black grilles or eye bows though - didn't see it for long.

I'd think new battery time AND the charger too Yes, a good trade account at RIPco helps - their retail prices have huge margin on a lot of stuff.

Yep - get a proper battery maintainer (fully auto charger). Most do a reverse polarity pulse to prevent battery sulfation, then charge the battery to a standby voltage (usually 13.8V) then maintain that level (or close to) with a minimal current charge. I had a car until recently that was doing anything from 27 to 250kms between WOF's and I had it connected to a small maintainer (2.5A max) that I paid about $100 trade. It was for a small battery though. That battery was in the car for nearly the entire 7 or 8 years I had the car, and never gave any issues. I left mine on 24/7, but it would sometimes sit 4 or 5 months without even being uncovered!` When I wasn't using the Transporter daily, I did the same thing, and it was always ready to go. When our last Son arrived, I didn't use it for 4 weeks, and forgot abuot the charger - it was just flat enough not to start (has a complex alarm and some battery monitoring gear live all the time). as was mentioned above, make a tidy little socket, so you can plug straight in, without having to clip onto the battery - less chance of stuffing anything up each time you connect :-). With the clips you cut off, wire the same plug on, so you can still connect them on for other batteries. I need to find a decent one of these things in 6V for the Model A now

Where you in Whangarei last weekend? With a surfboard on the roof? Your car is looking awesome!

economy is probly about right - vans are never amazing with the weight, boxyness etc. My VW Transporter is BIG and square, I get about 12L/100 kms driving from home to work (10ks each way, half town, half winding hilly country) with It's subaru 2.5 EFI engine (I do give it a good squirt at times though!!!!!). Those econovans aren't great for economy - Mum had a couple of E1800 short wheelbase ones in the mid 90's that they ended up LPGing, because they were hungry, but often loaded up and did big kms. They were great vans though. Most vans won't do too much better than that - even our POS work van (2006 Hiace auto diesel turbo 4wd) only gets about 10L/100kms, and it's mostly open road and empty, or with maybe 200 kg max in the back. The transit loaner we had got the same, but felt twice as fast. My Mate had a electronics repair shop and picks up TVs and Stereos etc in a mid 2000's Mitsi L300 2.4 EFI - he's getting pretty similar mileage to me. I wouldn't expect much better than you're getting, around town :-) 800 kgs is a bit of weight! PS - these ford/mazda vans can rust along the gutters - I'd spray some cavity wax in there from the inside of the van, sometime during summer when it should be pretty dry. The condensation sits on a seam in there and causes the issue. They're often OK, but can get expensive to repair if they are failed on a WOF - worth the $40 or $50 for a few cans of good wax.

I find it funny that people have hangups about milage. The engine is most cars should do the milage if they're maintained properly, it's the wear items that need replacing regularly - brakes, shocks, clutches bushes. The problems come about when people get stupid ides about how the car isn't worth much, so better not to spend money on it. Then you end up with a poorly maintained car that starts to cost moeny, so they buy another car which could have any number of problems, and do the same thing. My father in law does exactly that. So tight fisted that it ends up costly him money. I rely on Dads E30 with 215K on over the father in laws Honda, half the age with half the milage. The E30 is maintained, the honda is kept going. Just. Actually, even my Mrs's old impreza would be more trustworthy - it was a 95 with 322,000 on it when we sold it - I only sold it to get something bigger and safer - The E39. That E34 is probably better than MANY E34's with 1/4 the milage on it, because it was probably looked after like it should be, not according to it's "value" in dollar terms (although an M5 always is worth a bit, obviously!).

I wonder if the 7K smg trans upgrade was just some screw on bits, and someone made $6800 profit from the guy? Is that why it's about $7K (at least) too expensive? Well... it could be even MORE embarrassing: Bahahaha! Especially with the ///M badge done all wrong

Moral: Don't leave spare keys in the car!

Sounds dodgy You can report them as stolen, and have new normal NZ plates issued, but they'll be a new number. Doesn't cost much.

Fair enough!

Hey Clinton, I've heard of people fitting solid flywheels and having gearbox noise, particularly at idle (especially on diesels). It's not very loud, but something to be aware of. I assume it accelerates gearbox wear too, because the pulses aren't softened (hence the noise) but I don't think that's going to make any real difference over the long term - I haven't heard of boxes failing. Anyway - google it if it may concern you.