Allanw

You sure that's not a 520d with a badge added

It would be cool, but I'd be unlikely to make it Kids wife, work etc...

Are all the tyres the same size, properly inflated and with similar wear? different wheel speeds upset E39's easily.

Classic!

There's a cheap (ish) e34 wagon on trademe... maybe you could make it a project

You can adjust the rear suspension height in the software, using INPA (and maybe BMW Scanner 1.4.0 - not sure)

It depends what you want to do, and how much you want to spend. for basic stuff, and quite a few neat things, get BMW Scanner 1.4.0. It lets you fit used modules too - I upgraded my LCM to allow me to turn off cold checks on the LED angel bulbs. It lets you change the VIN to match the car, and change the mileage to match the car. The BMW software doesn't do that. The BMW software does have its advantages though - you can do all the stuff the dealer could. It code/programs modules based on the cars original build etc, and loads up the correct software etc (although you may have to get the latest DATEN files from the net, for the models you're working on). I've got both (and then some!). When I fitted the used LCM, it was from an '06 X5, so I used BMW Scanner 1.4.0 to change the Vin and mileage on the module, then used NCS Expert (from the BMW software) to "code" it to the car. I then changed some settings using BMW Scanner AND NCS Expert (changed the litres between oil changes, set the indicator to flash when locking and unlocking, set angel eyes to blink with indicators, set hazard lights to double flash, turned of the cold checks mentioned above, set the settings for my OEM xenon retrofit kit, etc). If you're going to get into really deep stuff (like you might be doing on your project!), it pays to invest in a power supply to keep the car powered up - you can have issues if the battery goes flat part way through - I'm sure you can imagine! I think BMW says a 20 or 40 amp, I've so far used a 13.8V 10A supply and not had issues, but It's still not what is recommended. PM me if you want some good sources. The guy I got the BMW software off, I know from another forum, and he's reliable, and trustworthy - maybe not the cheapest, but it's good gear and he's a good guy - will help out if there's problems, and is english, so easy enough to communicate with. It's about $80, plus the 16 pin OBDII to BMW 20 pin adapter if you require it (He charges about $50 for it, but there are cheaper ones available). The BMW Scanner 1.4.0 is from a Chinese website, it's cheap and it works, just takes a little while to arrive. It's about $42 (although you can buy it on Trademe for $150

Cheers! I'll make a note of that! They're usually only gone a few weeks, but can be up to 20 or 30K new value. Sorry for sending (another!) thread off topic

Cheers, we've tried to avoid it, but haven't been lucky so far - I'll mention what you said next time they're sending stuff Cheers,

Make sure the "filter" gauze in the feed to the solenoid is clean too

We didn't find dads old ones yet! There is still a bit of the shed we have to sort, but it's not looking promising. Will certainly let you know if we find them!

that bit where the numberplate holder swoops down through the front "bumper" and grille etc..... reminds me of Mater and his big bucky front teeth (off the movie "Cars") And he's going to sleep The blue one looks like an Audi with Kidney grilles. And... while I'm on a rant... what the hell is up with those grilles? I've had the odd bird stuck in a car grille, but you could get a cow stuck inside one of those things - They're huge! Bigger holes = less weight? E39's totally rule (though I used to think they were a bit ugly too, when they were new )

On the other hand... most of the calibration test gear we use at work has to be sent to Aus for calibration, annually. We get charged duty and customs every year on USED goods. One last week one cost $480 to calibrate, and $550 in shipping and customs (mostly customs). If they charge it each time it comes in, surely they should have to refund it going out? Yeah right. That's thousands of your tax dollars being spent on tax..... oh. Never mind.

Which is a bit worrying... when they are certing cars to make sure they are "safe" and compliant with the applicable rules Car looks awesome BTW. No hideous woodgrain! YAY! and a real Sport bumper, instead of the ill fitting M5 replicas.

Sweet! Good to here it was "easy" and cheap! It's impressive how much difference the Vanos makes.

GST and Customs is not charged on personal effects

It pays to have someone else turn on the car to check for strobing - I didn't realise mine were doing it for probably a couple of weeks. There had been a few confused looking people waving at me though The LED should have been fitted from new, really.

They do look pretty good whiter. The yellow looking bulbs look a bit dirty. Be aware, that they will quite possibly strobe - when you turn on the ignition, each side will blink very fast, and then when you are driving along the flash every so often (when turned off). I changed my LCM and turned off the cold checks to stop it, as people thought I was flashing my lights at them. I was worried someone would think I was telling them to go, when it might not be safe. Just something that you may not be aware of, as they mostly say they are error free, but a lot of them still strobe.

A mate of mine had a Mazda Bongo (ONLY because it was imported full of interesting car parts - it was just a box, for shipping effectively). Apparently it was an ///M

Isn't there an Auckland bylaw banning indicators?

Yeah, just don't...

and: "With the S14 4-cylinder power plant kicking out 195 bhp, the E30 M3 built on the earlier M10 engine to maximize low-rev torque, pulling with 169lb ft at 4750 rpm" Has the guy not driven it? I don't think anyone in their right mind would say an E30 M3 was built for "low end torque"! They're a rev-it's-tits-off peaky thing. The tyres aren't actually even that new, are they? They might have been a few weeks ago though

You drunk too much of that piss?

Nah, it really isn't! You should check out the threads on some of the US sites! Some of them suggested RO water so there was no minerals... These guys can argue for pages and pages about what should be used. On one of them, someone posted the BMW water requirements and it kind of put a damper on things. The limits are quite high really. If you had to fill it with new water everyday for years, you'd run into issues after many years - like the stuff that accumulates in your electric jug. However, if you boiled the same water everyday in a sealed jug, the buildup isn't even visible - which is similar to the radiator setup.

Obviously everyone will use what they feel comfortable with, which is fine. Just be aware that what people say, isn't always fact. I've seen people talking about using pure water and RO (Reverse Osmosis) water, and it is absolutely the worst thing you can use. Average tap water in NZ exceeds BMW requirements many times over. Anyone know what the dealers use? Or the average workshop? If you have water that is too pure, metals will dissolve into it. Water doesn't like to be "empty" - it's the universal solvent. It will dissolve anything it can, to become saturated with the Ions of anything that surrounds it. Pure water will eventually dissolve even stainless steel. Brass and aluminium disappear much faster. Some of the Dialysis equipment I maintain uses pure and ultra-pure water - we have to be VERY careful what metals we use for this exact reason. Hard water can leave calcium and magnesium deposits, but you're hardly going to gets rocks forming. If the water has been through a water softener, it has gained sodium Ions, so do you want lightly salted water in there? The problem with using anything out of a bottle, is that you don't know what has been done to it. It could be softened or Ro water, without necessarily being labelled as such.