Allanw

WHAT? judging from what I've seen (on trademe etc) big wheels and stupid/UGLY taillights, cone filters etc are FAR more important than cooling systems, brakes, suspension and things that actually help the car perform as it should (or better even). My sister had a 525i (which is actually really a 523i with a different badge for the Japanese market) and it certainly wasn't a rocket ship, but they do go well - certainly no slug. I think people think they're gutless because the 530i and 540i etc obviously go so well, but they aren't. You could argue that the 540i is gutless compared to an M5 too

Agreed - MOST (the vast majority) of E39's will require at least some of those things, and more. People THINK they maintain them well, but really they just do the bare basics to maintain them, and often that's not done correctly either. Most E39's feel OK to drive, but the suspension is poked and has had bits and peices done as they were required for a WOF etc. I've replaced the vast majority of the suspension components in mine, and it feels like an entirely different car. They basically need a complete rebuild every 100k to 150k. I did mine at 120 ish, and it was entirely needed - it was shagged. Most E39's don't get it done and drive like a Corolla, instead of the complex, great handling and nice riding car they are. There is also a really good chance it will require other cooling system parts done. NEVER EVER let it overheat, or dive it hot, or drive when it has over heated and may be still doing so, or maybe low on water. If the gauge reaches the red, it may already be WAY too late. Generally, ANY E39 probably needs at least $2000 spent on parts for it at the time of purchase (some a LOT more) if you want to make it "right".

Mmmm... Glacier Blue too! That's the same as Dads, except his has 15" cross spokes - the last of the SE's sold in NZ were very well specced, and are German assembled with the proper dip priming and rust proofing. That SE will have the complete boot lid liner, OBC, sunroof, "premium" sound, fogs, AC, proper electric windows, no emmisions equipment (not even an O2 sensor!) headlight range adjustment (that won't work anyway), illuminated M stripes gear knob, sport steering wheel, ski flap, ABS, body coloured bumpers, sills and mirrors and even blue tinted glass and side mirrors probably more too..... Pretty awesome compared to most E30's. Dads was about $88,000 new in 1991. that was a lot back then for a 3 series!

You could use non-setting winscreen sealer (for use on rubber fitted windows, not bonded). I use Wurth Dab-Off, which semi sets, but remains soft. It's a butyl rubber type sealer, but is black, so you want to be careful it doesn't squeeze into the inside too much.

Do you have good tools?

Price them at Milland - the one for Dads E30 bonnet was stupidly cheap...

I realise this is a VERY long way away... Manual 528i BUT, it's manual and pretty cheap - I'm sure it's not a stunning car, but it's prety low priced, and the manual box means no expensive auto faults and way better performance. I'd be tempted to call the guy and ask for an honest description, and see if he sounds genuine about it. Then maybe fly up and drive home

Actually, I didn't spot it (It was in the UK), but.....

True...and a bit "ix", especially the back!

Everyone is too scared - what if we get it dirty

EXACTLY waht I was thinking... Ugh....leee. How busy can you actually make a car look - BMW has managed to screw up a whole lot of their trademark styling cues, but managed to successfully incorporate a huge amount of KIA styling cues (Although a lot of new KIA's look better that a number of BMW models!)

Wurth does an upholstery cleaning tool (that won't be cheap though) that uses tiny amounts of water to clean upholstery - works amazingly, and leaves the seats pretty dry afterwards - you need compressed air to run it though.

I like the awesome fit of the kidney grilles

E39's do NOT like a power shortage! Give those terminals a really good clean, and press the right down on the battery terminals before tightening them up. It the get grubby emough, the arcing makes it worse, and can actually arc parts of the terminals away so the contact is never right again.

?You need to turn the big nut a bit - if you don't undo the locking mechanism first, the screwdriver may break the clips on the back and then they fall off.

But don't turno too far! Turn it anticlockwise until it clicks, then it should just about fall off.

The switch is really common - does do some REALLY weird stuff - do your sun visor lights flicker or blink sometimes???

In addition to what GLenn said, in an M54, the extra fuel it uses will very likely cost MORE than the extra cost per litre. It will be running retarded timing (and possibly alters the Vanos settings) to suit the lower octane.

Maybe I should have saidI've been drinking Me no see paddles I thought they'd be more visible here, under the steering spokes, but aren't there. The other shots looked liike bits of dashboard to me. Of course now... I've got no cider on board.... looks very much like a plus sign

You been drinking? Me no see paddles.

Try a decent clay bar kit - make sure to turn and knead the clay regularly and keep the surface wet (do it well out of the sun, on a cool surface). I think the problem is going to be that a lot of that has eaten into the surface though - probably needs a good machine cut (probably by a professional too - it's easy to screw up!) The best tar remover I have found is Kerosene - you can spray/wipe a light coat on, and leave it for a while to soften the spots. Then wipe them off with a kero soaked rag. It also leaves a waxy film on the car that you can wipe off. Avoid getting it on the rubber and plastics though.

You really do wonder! Maybe the Odomoeter packed up before it was imported :-) There are a lot of parts of it that look really abused - even the storage try and the heater controls in deformed. It's grubby and dirty, and that engine bay! Dads 1990 E30 has done about 220K now, and looks FAR FAR cleaner than that. I wonder if the engine rebuild was cambelt related? I bet someone thought "It's not due until 100,000" and left the ancient belt in there (they're suppposed to be done every 4 years regardless of milage aren't they). Wouldn't be too hard to tidy, but it's a bit of a wreck! PS: don't care what that steering wheel is worth,,, it's DAMN ugly!

Sounds a bit like a misfire, which could be plugs, leads, dizzy cap etc, or if could have a vacuum leak. It could be a lot of things. When did it last have a proper service (including the parts above?)

Depending on the actual specs of the particular oils; 75W90 can be quite a bit thinner than the 80W90 when cold, giving better gear changes while cold. Once warm they the same 75W is about the same viscosity as a 10weight (or some of the thinner 20weight) engine oil, and 80 is more like a thicker 20 weight or a 30weight. I wouldn't rush out and change it, but I'd look for the 75W90 next time The thing with the diff, is that it MUST be hypoid, where you can get gearbox oil that isn't hypoid, though it's not that common on the shelves.

Holy Crap! Sounds like a lot of effort - glad it worked out for you! I reckon I've used the cruise twice - can't be bothered with it myself I think the roads up here are just too variable - motorway would be easier I guess. REtrofits are cool - I can't be arsed doing most of them though