BreakMyWindow

Absolutley amazing! Nice, tasteful mods. Love the wheels too.

Have bought alot of parts from them. Very easy to deal with. You could try using Youshop, but would probably take a bit longer for your items to arrive to nz.

DIY or paying someone? If paying someone, budget for half the car's value. It's a tough call, but can't really buy any better for the money you paid.

I was seriously considering buying that one of Brent. Really nice car to drive, just missing the low end torque due to the swirly flaps in the inlet manifold being out of commision.

Google chrome does the translation if you open that link in it. I would only bother with the Vanos on the M62tu when you have to replace the timing chain rail guides.

Knowhow : http://tis.bmwcats.com/

Car is now back on the road. Finally! I ended up using some castor-oil based rubber grease to lube the o-rings when re-installing the thermo. housing. No pinches, no breaks, this stuff is much better then vasoline. KTEMP readings are now correct, and not dropping below the thermostat Threshold of 78deg C Re-assembly took about 3 hours, alot of nuts and bolts to re-install, and torque correctly. here's a pic of the base of the inlet manifold going back on.

I've heard that some Lemfoder parts are manufactured in China. I'm pretty sure this is the case, as the parts vs original BMW ones are much cheaper through ECS tuning.

As in some GT1 magic? Drivers side valve cover gasket procedure is now done. This was MUCH easier than the passenger side. Not long now till she is back on the road!

mmm roast lizard. I actually touched it thinking it was some leaves until i saw it's head and then decided to get some long pliers to get it out hehe.

Some pics from yesterdays work. The very dead rodent found festering away in between the drivers headlight, and lower air intake box. I think it was a rat, as it was a bit big for a mouse. At least it was warm for a while. RIP ratty. Blankets to keep her warm : Coolant pipes connecting the thermo housing to the coolant pipes traversing the valley area of the block. Still waiting for the large order of o-rings to arrive, the pipe missing the oring, had approx. 1/4 of the o ring sitting underneath it on the block, which was causing the leak.

Not sure if removing cats will cause ecu trouble. It has pre and post oxy sensors. Will have to look in to it. Made some good progress today. Passenger side valve cover back on. Plugs, coils and other bits that were in the way were cleaned and re-assembled. Driver side valve cover is off and is now drying after a good cleaning. Thermo housing and o-rings connecting the water pipes are now off for the forth time. Waiting on new o rings to arrive from the usa. Found a very dead mouse under the headlight assembly when removing driver side air intake boxes. No evidence of any wires chewed! Whew!!

Just wanting to run it with the manifold off to check for leaks around the damned o-rings which are normaly covered by the manifold is all, so 15 - 20mins of idling with a few revs up to about 3k rpm to help the bubbles in the coolant get out.

Seems pricey considering no wof or reg. something tells me this would be an endless money pit.

Thanks but i got a full set of the standard issue nkg's for $60 usd when i ordered all my thermostat and valve cover seal parts.

Its not as clean as my 540i was under the rocker cover. Bit of sludge but nothing extreme. The spark plugs were covered in oil though. My guess is that the gasket seals were original.

Decided to re-seal the valve cover tonight while it's all apart. Here's a few pics of all the chaos. Just to get enough clearance to remove the cover I had to tie up the coil wiring harness, and move the water valve unit up about 30mm. Not a fun job with the engine in the car. Thermostat housing off. Bitch of a job to try and get on right with out seeing if the o -rings pinch. Removing the inlet manifold. 45 + nuts and bolts to remove, plus a few hose clips. Cleaning the Oil residue out, before pic More oil residue and oil to clean off before the cover can go back on Throttle bodies cleaned, and gasket mating surfaces cleaned up

managed to get my 4;3 on board working again, and it was only to the tune of $60 The Rotary optical encoder (knob dial/button for scrolling menu options) was replaced. This was a generic part that i sourced from element14. Let me know if you want the part number. The internal spring mecahanism was stuffed, so scrolling worked, but you couldn't acknowledge anything with the push button. As for all the rest of the buttons on the onboard monitor, i simply removed the front cover, removed the circuit board, and cleaned the buttons, and contact points on the circuit board with CRC MAF cleaner (it's all I had) I guess it was either luck, or they were really dirty, but they all started working again upon re-installation. Steering wheel controls work now too!

Thanks Jochen, will do.

Yeah, i was using vasoline, which is a no no (petrolium jelly) Had I have got the o rings in without pinching or breaking them, leaks would only just be around the corner. I ended up removing the inlet plenum chamber last night so i can get good visibility if the o rings pinch or break when re-inserting the thermo. housing. I've ordered enough o rings to give this another go 3 times over. What a fiddly engine the s62 engine is when it's installed in the car! Out of curiosity, has anyone had their s62 fired up with the plenum removed? so just the throttle bodies exposed. I'm not wanting to re-assemble the plenum on to the motor until i've checked throughly for leaks, and bled the cooling system of leaks. The S62 runs fine with the air intake tubes, and maf cables unplugged, so i'm thinking it should be fine.

Yep that's normal. Sounds like a vacum cleaner in slow motion.

Epic fail on the thermostat change. Have done the procedure 3 times now but cannot get the damn o rings to seal that connect the thermo. Housing to the water pipes, and heat exchanger. Such a pig of a job!!

Bmw mags all sold to the first person expressing their interest.

If you end up replacing the edc shocks with something else to match the lowering springs, I would steer clear of bilstein HD. I used these in my 540i and the ride was very crashy. Pretty good on smooth motorways though.

It appears I have a rather odd system in the M5. Has the Mk2 4:3 onboard monitor, but no dsp, and no hifi - just 6 speakers - I couldnt see an amp in the boot with the 9pin and 26pin connector for the 10 speaker arrangement. There is also a seperate MID in the rear centre console, that has the ability to change stations, switch between radio, tape and cd. The OBC functions can also be displayed. Thinking that I did have the amp, I was just going to install a small old-school Alpine 2 channel amp to power a sub to fill in the low end. I have done this on my previous 540i that had the 10 speaker hifi system, and was happy with it, as im not cranking it up passed 11 like i used to when i was younger. So with the stereo I have in the M5, i'm wondering how many watts continuous is being powered to the 6 speakers? Im thinking about just replacing the front 5.25 woofers and tweeters with some mid-range Alpine component units. I'm not going to bother though if the output is something really measly like <5 watts rms per channel.