BreakMyWindow

Went to the shop today and discovered some interesting things. The engine looks suprisingly clean behind all the timing covers, no sludge build up. Not bad for 250,000kms worn deflection plate ('U' shaped chain guide) worn lower chain sprocket And the most interesting part... a piece of plastic from the 'U' shaped guide stuck in by the intake cam on the passenger side cylinder head. This is what i imagine made all the racket. 5k to repair, including a new radiator, and transmission service.

I wonder if its had a pre-purchase inspection....

Crud. So it turns out the U shaped guide (deflection plate i think its called) has had its nylon cover worn down allowing the chain to rub on the aluminum plate. Both timing cases need to be removed. $$$$. higher milage m62tu owners/potential buyers, id strongly suggest the timing chains and guides are inspected for wear (a knocking/rubbing/whirring racket made from the timing chain area). Looking on the US forums, it seems the issue with wear is more predominant with the m62tu. Note the racket can also be caused by the VANOS cam transmission (gears within the intake cam sprocket that engage VANOS operation) My next car was going to be an e39 m5.. but the s62 has VANOS on both intake and exhaust camshafts, and not to mention dual timing chains.....

On Thursday morning i went to start my car,(e39 540i with the m62tu, done 250k, nz-new) and decided to make an odd whirring/rattle sound. The sound seemed to originate from within the passenger side cam cover. I removed the oil cap which is on the drivers side cam cover this morning and noticed that the timing chain looks to have been rubbing against something else metal in the engine. (the chain is a golden brown colour, but the top of the chain is now shiny and bare metal looking.) The noise seems to quieten down slightly once the engine has been run, but at this stage im extremely reluctant to turn the motor over any more. I havnt noticed any loss in power or warning lights. Has anyone else with the vanos 540i come accross this problem? My guess is that the chain guides have worn away, and that the tensioner is shot which is allowing the chain to rub against something metal. At this point I don't know what to do as the car itself cost me 10.5k in 2008, and to replace the required parts will be a BIG job... Glenn, your thoughts?

How much did it cost you?

I recently installed an amp and sub in to my E39. I ended up using a Line output converter ($20 from Jaycar) by simply tapping in to the left rear speaker output from the factory amp with a female to female bullet connector.

Way over priced, its not even the 20v version.

any ID12's left?

E39 M5

How about the thrust arm bushes? I think they're also known as reaction rods, or traction arms. When those are naffed they are known to cause a shimmy. I had mine done recently (installed heavier duty x5 bushes) and the shimmy was gone.

id be surprised if that actually improved performance with all the press bends in place.

Sticker fail http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0

Callplus Ltd. NOC ftw

I ended up tapping in to the audio signals via a line output converter. I am very pleased with the results. Ultimatley i want to mount the amp under the rear parcel tray (in the boot) would securing the amp (its about 3 kgs) to the underside of the tray using some washers and self tapping screws casue a wof failure? i'm only drilling four small holes ??

Looks far too nice to butcher imo.

Sweet cheers Brent, yeah the amp I have only has RCA inputs, so looks like i'll need a LOC afterall.

Hi, This may be one for Jochen, or someone who has done this before, I need a bit of clarification.. I have the 10 speaker (4 woofers, 4 mids, and 2 tweeter) non-dsp stereo system in my e39. There is an amp behind the cd changer in the boot that has both the 12 and 26 pin connectors. Im wanting to install an aftermarket 2 channel amp, running in bridged mode to run a subwoofer. Do I need a line output converter in order for the aftermarket amplifier RCA input to accept audio signal from the factory amplifier, or can I just hack up one end of a single RCA cable and tap in to the audio signal outputs for one of the woofers from the factory amp, and plug the unhacked RCA end in to the aftermarket amp? Thanking for help in advance :-)

I believe it also acts as a kettle. Mine had alot of water in it when i removed it

You have the vanos M62 (M6TU).. The only think restricting the exhaust by the sounds, is either the cat's (there are four of them) or the oxygen sensors are giving false readings. Its best that the car is connected to a diagnosis platform while its running i.e in situations where you are giving it herbs. I recently replaced the plugs in mine, and noticed that its now more 'alive' its more keen to rev, and has nice low end pull. I was quoted $27 + gst per plug from BNT (with discount). Take a look at the plugs, if they look worn out then replace them. You can pick up a full set for $130 from supercheap autos, they are the Bosh F7 plugs that come in a pack of 4, they are a platinum-irridium fused plug. I was a little suss at the beginning being much cheaper then the NGK platinums, but can confrim no issues using them. Other things to consider are the Cam speed sensors, they are ~$300 each Air flow sensor $Expensive$ you could try cleaning it with MAF cleaner. You mention it locked in to 2nd gear.. that sounds like it could be a transmission issue as well. Either way get the car diagnosed. If your a DIY type of person, go to www.bimmerforums.com look in the DIY section of the e39 forums section, plenty of useful info there.

ive removed both rear mufflers, didnt really notice a gain, but has a nice v8 bark now. You can get your car re-mapped. I suspect a tune could be made to improve top end. Do you have a vanos m62? Based on the dyno graph plottings i've seen the pre-vanos m62's make more power up top. Ultimatley you'd want a super charger kit, but they are pricey and these days 35 - 40k will get you in to a nice e39 m5.

Nice colour Nice wheels (staggered style 5's) Looks to be a minter! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-249670005.htm

Your on one of these DSLAM's no doubt : Customer and Service Impact Up to 1640 Wholesale Broadband and 113 Corporate Data customers will be experiencing a loss of service. Known affected parent nodes listed below: ETM-DSLAM-01 ETM-DSLAM-02 OAA-DSLAM-02 HCK-DSLAM-02

hrmm okay was hoping all tyres be in wof condition. Just looking for pics online now of what they'd look like on mine.

with tyres? if so what brand/model of tyres, and the sizes please What offset are the wheels?

Looking to swap my set of 4 genuine 17x8" BBS RC wheels, with 4 new Dunlop Direzza DZ101 235/45/17 tyres. Looking for a set of Staggered 17 or 18" wheels with good tyres, 8" front and 9" wide rear. The rims have some curb damage, but still look the part cleaned up. Being a 2-pice rim, they can be dismantled, repaired and polished up. These are from an e39, so the hub bore diamater is slightly larger then other Bmw models. Hub-rings can be purchased to overcome this. Offset is +20mm all round.