BreakMyWindow

yeah I did some reading on that m5 forum. Apparently the Landrover Freelander TD4 (not sure on the year yet) uses the same sensor as my car, i could get one of those (if its cheaper and do need a new HFAM) remove the sensor from the intake pipe, and drop it in to my existing pipe. The guy's in the USA have reported that using CRC Mass air fliow sensor cleaner on the HFAM in the m62tu with mixed results.. some cars have had no difference, where as others have had an improvement after cleaning (more power, improved idling, no stalling) This may be a placebo effect, so i'd be keen to do this on a dyno with before and after results.

Thanks for the reply there Glenn. I had a wee chat to you the other day on the phone about my car regarding the valley pan replacement job. The car is stalling occasionly when lightly tapping the gas pedal from idle at any temperature. It has been doing so before several months, and gradually geting worse, its now possible to trigger a stall with the following.. i.e idle at 400rpm, tap gas, revs go up to around 7 - 900rpm, revs then go below 400 and then stall. Some times it won't stall, it will drop down to about 200 and then catch its self, the revs in this situation go back up to 8 - 900 and then slowly go back down to idle. The car has been scanned and several faults came up.. cam posi. sensor bank 2, cam control bank 2, and something regarding the thermostat. To my understanding the HFAM may not bring up a fault as it is still working, but in my case, maybe not idelally. I am just waiting on a new cam posi. sensor, so if replacing that doesnt make an improvement i will lookin to doing the HFAM meter, and pre-cat oxy sensors as the car has done 230,000k's and i'm pretty sure these are original items. The car just had a big job done on it (valley cover, inlet manifold gaskets, throttle body gaskets, crank vent valve replaced, valvle cover gaskets, timing profile gaskets, new waterpump and thermostat.) and im sure it wouldnt be a vacum leak causing the idling/stalling problems. I'm wanting to get the car on a dyno and have the live data read, and also a few power runs, as i feel its a bit down on power when at around 4000rpm in 4th gear... nz roads are not really ideal for this kind of testing ;-) The idea is to see what improvements the new HFAM meter and pre-cat sensors make in a before and after test.

So i've done a bit of reading up about these. How they can affect the cars performance if they are dirty or faulty. According to the people in the USA the s62 and the m62tu both share the same bosch Hot film air mass meter, the s62 has two. I removed the sensor out of my m62tu and found these part numbers : BOSCH F 00C 2G2 029 Does anyone know if this part was used on any other bosch meter equipped european vehcle?

I reckon It ultimately depends on the driver. People who are in to cars go for manual transmissions, service them accordingly, and don't generally rape their cars when they shouldn't (when the car has been cold started). Where as people who are in to cars, but see them as a means of transport more so tend to go for auto's. They also wouldn't service them as religiously i would think. In this case because the car is a classic? its a bit of a gamble really as to what would serve you more reliably, a manual or an auto. But at least with a manual you get to know more about what the car is doing.

ineedmoneyspentonmeitus.

Acouple of months back i spent a good half day cleaning and waxing the 540. That night, i parked my car at a friends house in Mt Eden (the cars boot was just about blocking the footpath, but there was still plenty of room to walk past it) the next morning i found a deep scratch (in to the undercoat/primer) that goes right across the trunk lid and on to the rear quater panel. The initial reaction was to hunt down the waste of oxygen and punch them in the neck, repeatedly. It's so annoying, and now i'm wondering if I should even bother fixing the scratch for it to only happen again. I had a quote for $600 to repair it, my insurance excess is $500. pain in the arse!! /rant

Anyone know where i can get one for an e39 (pre-facelift) in the AKL area. Does not have to be a genuine item. Thanks.

Can anyone here vouch for the claimed power and torque increase? is it worth the $1500 or have BMW already done the best job they could with the 4.4 M62TU? I asked if they had some dyno graphs for this model installed with a powerchip but they didnt have any available.

how much for the e39 turbine wheels and tires? and are the tires wof'able ?

How about this BMW Fail?

haha

Caustic soda aka oven cleaner.

http://www.bmwwheels.com/ look under the e39 section, they are not cheap tho! nor are they cheap to refurbish if u find a used set in need of TLC (like mine)

Thats good to know!!

yes, but you also have to factor in how the car's been treated.

is the reason why its munted parked next to it in the pic?

Take the Bimmer that's potentially going to be yours to this fella - I took my e39 528i for a pre-check and i was suprised to see they noted one of the rear speakers not working.. now thats a thorough inspection lol

HB Jochen, and thanks again for all your help and excellent advice!

Such a shame.. I read in TBMW mag that the e60 is exceptionally expensive to repair any frontal damage, and it looks like the chassis is well borked considering the front doors are misalligned.

nice buy! being a one owner car u cant go wrong providing the ceo has kept up with the service schedule. At those kms, i'd get the cooling system inspected. The shocks may need to be replaced if not already. Get it to a bmw specialist for a once over when u receive it.

Yup That's a mate of mine - Awesome car!

My OBC shows an avg. consumtion of 12.7 l/100km thats with 98% of time driving from east auckland to central auckland.

most probably the torque convertor going in to lock up mode - do you feel the "fifth change" at motorway speeds?

e34 518i.. absolute poo.

same thing happened to my dad's e34 520i (m50) water pump.