BreakMyWindow

Mods list. 1.) Chassis lightening - All windows and lights smashed - Interior trims removed/ripped out - Bumpers removed with a crow bar, and sledge hammer 2.) Aerodynamics - Multiple Sledgehammer blows 3.) Cooling - 92' honda prelude electric fan directly wired to battery and cable tied to the front grill. - mended water hose when engine mounts broke causing the alt. pulley to eat said hose. 4.) Chassis Rigidity - Engine strapped down to front crossmember using a truck container strap. - Multiple sledgehammer blows. 5.) Appearance - Warehouse rattlecan paint custom paint job, heat cured in ~28 deg. West Auckland sun.

I too had this problem. I just used a piece of vacum hose to replace the cracked section, which reulted in the plastic nipple breaking off the drivers side washer jet. I super glued it, and that lasted all of 3 weeks lol. Intensive wash is a bit of a have imo so ive just left it disconnected. One day, i'll get around to replacing the washer jet, but because it's heated they're not cheap.

if i ever super charged my 540i i'd go for SHNEL

2nd dibbs on a pair of 17x9 style 5's :-D I'd be keen to work there part time, weekends maybe?

Whoops misread that. if you can get the last 7 characters of the chassis number, you can to bmwfans.info and check its build date there. September 98 is when the m62tu was first installed.

If it's a 2003 model, then it will definatley have the m62tu (4.4 litre, vanos on the intake cams, extra 20nm torque 300 or so rpm earlier, and 210kw made 300rpm earlier compared to non vanos m62). Have a listen to the engine idling, if it sounds similar to a diesel, or makes some odd noises coming from around the valve covers be very careful.. you don't want to pay 4k+ like i did. See my post about timing chain guide failure :- http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=27552 PDC was available prior to 2001, mines a Nov 98 model and has it as standard. The kms seem good for a 2003, meaning its done roughly 18,000kms per year, and not spent most of its life cooking away in traffic jams. The radiator (if original) must be due for replacement soon, its a good opp. to change the hoses, water pump and thermo stat. Have the transmissions oil checked, and replace if recommended. Apart from that, it should be just run in.

Nah I havnt, although im pretty sure he has a 540i m sport for parts. There is about 1500 - 2000 worth of parts that need replacing inside the timing case, so that on top of the cost of the engine, putting it in, recoding the dme etc etc wouldnt be worth it.

Yip going ahead with the repair. Hard to find m62tu engines in NZ. in the USA there are plenty, but then you have shipping costs and no knowledge if all this work has been done. Better the devil you know i guess. Will be keeping the car for a while now.

Went to the shop today and discovered some interesting things. The engine looks suprisingly clean behind all the timing covers, no sludge build up. Not bad for 250,000kms worn deflection plate ('U' shaped chain guide) worn lower chain sprocket And the most interesting part... a piece of plastic from the 'U' shaped guide stuck in by the intake cam on the passenger side cylinder head. This is what i imagine made all the racket. 5k to repair, including a new radiator, and transmission service.

I wonder if its had a pre-purchase inspection....

Crud. So it turns out the U shaped guide (deflection plate i think its called) has had its nylon cover worn down allowing the chain to rub on the aluminum plate. Both timing cases need to be removed. $$$$. higher milage m62tu owners/potential buyers, id strongly suggest the timing chains and guides are inspected for wear (a knocking/rubbing/whirring racket made from the timing chain area). Looking on the US forums, it seems the issue with wear is more predominant with the m62tu. Note the racket can also be caused by the VANOS cam transmission (gears within the intake cam sprocket that engage VANOS operation) My next car was going to be an e39 m5.. but the s62 has VANOS on both intake and exhaust camshafts, and not to mention dual timing chains.....

On Thursday morning i went to start my car,(e39 540i with the m62tu, done 250k, nz-new) and decided to make an odd whirring/rattle sound. The sound seemed to originate from within the passenger side cam cover. I removed the oil cap which is on the drivers side cam cover this morning and noticed that the timing chain looks to have been rubbing against something else metal in the engine. (the chain is a golden brown colour, but the top of the chain is now shiny and bare metal looking.) The noise seems to quieten down slightly once the engine has been run, but at this stage im extremely reluctant to turn the motor over any more. I havnt noticed any loss in power or warning lights. Has anyone else with the vanos 540i come accross this problem? My guess is that the chain guides have worn away, and that the tensioner is shot which is allowing the chain to rub against something metal. At this point I don't know what to do as the car itself cost me 10.5k in 2008, and to replace the required parts will be a BIG job... Glenn, your thoughts?

How much did it cost you?

I recently installed an amp and sub in to my E39. I ended up using a Line output converter ($20 from Jaycar) by simply tapping in to the left rear speaker output from the factory amp with a female to female bullet connector.

Way over priced, its not even the 20v version.

any ID12's left?

E39 M5

How about the thrust arm bushes? I think they're also known as reaction rods, or traction arms. When those are naffed they are known to cause a shimmy. I had mine done recently (installed heavier duty x5 bushes) and the shimmy was gone.

id be surprised if that actually improved performance with all the press bends in place.

Sticker fail http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0

Callplus Ltd. NOC ftw

I ended up tapping in to the audio signals via a line output converter. I am very pleased with the results. Ultimatley i want to mount the amp under the rear parcel tray (in the boot) would securing the amp (its about 3 kgs) to the underside of the tray using some washers and self tapping screws casue a wof failure? i'm only drilling four small holes ??

Looks far too nice to butcher imo.

Sweet cheers Brent, yeah the amp I have only has RCA inputs, so looks like i'll need a LOC afterall.

Hi, This may be one for Jochen, or someone who has done this before, I need a bit of clarification.. I have the 10 speaker (4 woofers, 4 mids, and 2 tweeter) non-dsp stereo system in my e39. There is an amp behind the cd changer in the boot that has both the 12 and 26 pin connectors. Im wanting to install an aftermarket 2 channel amp, running in bridged mode to run a subwoofer. Do I need a line output converter in order for the aftermarket amplifier RCA input to accept audio signal from the factory amplifier, or can I just hack up one end of a single RCA cable and tap in to the audio signal outputs for one of the woofers from the factory amp, and plug the unhacked RCA end in to the aftermarket amp? Thanking for help in advance :-)