CamB

Yeah, to be fair I'm kinda old (35) and when I was 18 I occasionally drove an E30 ... which my old man had bought new. And Kurt Cobain was still alive. I don't think 18" wheels had been invented. And I drove around in a Honda City (what a POS). Is that a good thing? No, but really? My car won't do that and I don't have TC. Still not getting why he'll do such a crap deal, or why you think you can buy cheap and sell high. Be careful.

I think all the positives are well covered. Biggest drawback is that there are lots of parts that could break and they belong to a car that would be been $150k new. At least with 944s 2nd hand parts are cheap. 911s are terrible.

And why is there a creepy dude sitting in the back with a camera, taking photos?

Actually TBH I don't understand this at all. I am not actually debating that someone would swap what I have learned (in this thread) to be the greatest car on earth - a GSR - for your self-described slow POS AND give you money. It seems this is a fact. What I'm wondering is why you think you can sell the GSR for good money ----> surely the only reason you're getting offered the deal is because it is an unsaleable (if fast) POS.

$5k paintjob ... in a shed? O'rly?

Good writeup Sorry, but LOL at immodesty. Does the fuel pump turn off when the ignition is off (ie, is the relay on switched power or unswitched power)? Its not safe to have it on when the car isn't. I'm not sure the stock fuel pump will cause any problems even on a pretty well modified engine - I recall reading about cars on e30tech happily making 400hp on the standard pump.

^ What Simon said - I'm not sure you **need** a "mean bov, external wastegate" in your life, even if you think you do.

Nice work! Is there something I'm not seeing in the pics - how does the crank avoid hitting the windage tray?

Awesome effort! :D Especially since your only problem wasn't really a teething problem. T28s are easy to find, so fix 'er up.

I'm super-curious to see how you got on at the track day ... picking up a clutch disc first thing, reinstalling and heading to the track for the first full one shake down run at noon is fairly ambitious. Will be impressed if it makes it through the day without major teething probs!

I will get onto it - I'm not in a habit of driving an unsafe car and its not unsafe (yet). LSD and new shocks help, 320hp doesn't.

Well I'm pleased you have resolved the issue. In the four months since you started the thread I've almost run out of rear tyres (just squeaked through the WOF with 2mm of tread). I'm actually having to be careful in the wet (ie, every day).

Oooooh it's manual. Kind of a dowdy S4.

Wiring - haha. I've been putting off doing the wiring on my race car for ... a year. I've managed the injector loom and that's it. If you can, you really should find another way for this. What's the radiator from? Is there any provision for (or possibility to have added) one of those threaded bosses so you can add a temperature activated switch (like on e34 and later) to turn on the relay for the fan? If you don't one of two things can happen: 1) you always remember to turn fan on and off at the right time. Everyone is happy. 2) you forget. Even just once. Or someone else does. Engine overheats and everyone is sad. (edit) the probe style switches are fine too - you can apparently just zip-tie the probe to the radiator as its not critical it goes inside with the coolant as long as you set the fan switching in and out conservatively.

I've used it - I'm a fan. Its so easy to apply and remove I felt lazy doing it...

Based on my reaction (WTF are they) and others, I think I can safely say that these are NOT the "most famous" anything. They seem to be more along the lines of "obscure". Kinda cool tho

Here, I've just re-listed it on Trademe as I took it off while I was away overseas for two weeks: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-315863056.htm Started easily with the cold start injector hooked up to a button (press it a couple of times while cranking and it'd fire up). I'll chuck in a brand new water pump too (expensive, as a tii specific part).

Not sure how clear that is - you can also do it this way: - undo clutch master cylinder - undo connection to brake rod across car - unclip springs - undo big long bolt and remove pedals. Keep the big long bolt and all spacers etc - autos have a shorter bolt. When you're done, you should have this: http://img843.imageshack.us/i/p1000542.jpg/

They're not super rare - just somewhat rare. The problem is they're rare enough that if you have one needing restoration in any way ... you can't find the parts and its uneconomic to restore. @jammah - I agree with the others - keep it M10. Even better - buy my 2002tii engine (low miles), linkages etc and convert it to a Tii.

It appears to be a CHCH thing - there's evidence that CHCH has 3+x the fines (compared to Auckland) for the various "street racing" rules being broken, despite being 1/3 the size, ie 10x more per capita. It would be interesting to understand if this is driven by the populace (ie more boyracers per capita) or by the police. Source: http://www.scoop.co.nz/stories/PA0906/S00029.htm (note following quote isn't exactly in context so don't get too excited)

Super randomly, this thread shows up and so does an M40 turbo on trademe. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-314895948.htm

Hmmmm, tell me more about the carpark

I agree with Glenn. You should be arguing there was a "reasonable excuse" for any loss of traction. Beyond that you are disputing whether there was "sustained loss of traction". If the cop saw you lose traction (sustained or not) you have to argue it wasn't sustained (ie was momentary, unintentional, corrected as soon as possible, etc). This is why you might need a lawyer (eg, has there been case law on what "sustained" is).

Wow. That's awesome. Is it for <2 litre in the open class?

Random thread dig... Is there any sort of cross-over / merge pipe built into the factory exhaust ... and should there be? (note, I am too lazy to grovel under the car).