CamB

Think about it - it depends whether the marginal investor (ie, he or she buying properties in the last few months / year) has been relying on depreciation to make them work. If they drop out (or drop their price), then the new transaction (ie market) price could be lower. The reliance on properties bought some time ago is irrelevant to this. As a separate issue, if there are a significant number of properties pushed onto the market as they are no longer sustainable for the owners their could also be downward pressure on prices. Its more questionable whether this will happen (I think not - for the reasons you say).

That's the smart thing to do, IMHO. I've got 2x for that reason too.

Rents? My opinion probably nothing much --> surely every landlord sets their rent based on what can be paid rather than how much they need. Prices? Might depend which end of the market. Its marginally worse for property investors so where the competition for houses is between landlords and owner-occupiers the price might come back a little. At the upper end, a portion of the tax cuts might make their way into housing values (more "affordability" - I use that term loosely as houses are unaffordable in many areas).

Happy to be corrected, but I believe torque wrenches like those are accurate more in the middle of their ranges. Do you need one for a valve adjustment naughty me.

Surely you won't get closer to going this way? http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=29861 Obviously 15", and swap whole wheel, but NZ is a small place...

Which of the 318i options are we talking here? That'll help on the "is it strong" question. Either way, getting an SR20 in there is probably the cheapest / most reliable way of getting the boost.

Yeah sorry Ray - wasn't meaning you wouldn't have the bits / right bits / expertise. Was just looking to answer the original question about whether he has an imobiliser. I ended up getting an alarm anyway after someone tried to break into my car and ruined the locks. I wasn't worried about them actually stealing the car, but figured I needed the deterrent.

A 328i probably has EWS (factory imobilizer), so you need the key and its little chip to start it.

Lots of those are the US-spec ones which basically just have a hotted up M50 engine with ~260hp. Not really the same.

According to www.bmwmregistry.com, about 1,200 non-Evo 3.0 litre ones and slightly over 2,000 Evo 3.2 litre (plus the neutered ones they sold in the USA). They have sport seats, not vaders. How's that for useless information.

yeah, the forum at www.savarturbo.se is awesome as well (plus bonus points for 400hp+ Volvos).

True story! Not like its going to be anyone else in German Racing Brown I guess...

3 minute fix (you poke your finger in under and behind the OBC and it pops out), but I think its a special bulb: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/62111391260/ As you can no doubt guess, I made it as far as looking at the non-functioned bulb but haven't tried to get one yet.

By the way, I doubt it will change the radio clock. However, since I hope someone will suggest an easy and cheap solution for the bulb, I googled this up for you to try on the radio:

<sticks hand up> I need a bulb too - mine blew a couple of months ago and have been too lazy to find another.

I got one from Glenn - good price too.

Ha - that's not even my pic - its the previous, previous owner's one! In real life it needs a clean and is due a waxin' and general detail. I'll try get some pictures in and out of the sun - makes a massive difference to how the colour appears. Next time I do so, I'll take some pics - engine bay looks like an S50B32 and interior looks like an E36 with leather (no vaders). Not that exciting.

With an LSD, the back grips better (you don't spin the inside wheel), but when it goes it always tries to slide. Its pretty predictable, to be honest, and much easier to gather back in with an LSD than without.

No pics for most of them for me, but in rough order - the ones that are gone: - '85ish Civic GTi - '96 Peugeot 106 Rallye - '78 Jaguar XJ6 - rusted into oblivion - '92 Opel Vectra GT - '01 Golf GTI - '94 Honda Civic (EG) with a Prelude H22A Still have: - '96 M3 sedan - '05 Skoda Octavia VRS (wife's car) - '73 2002tii in process of being butchered - '69 Porsche 911 (just gone "vintage" - rego for 6 months was <$50!)

Yeah well, my 2002 on old, hard Dunlop semi-slicks and with a tight LSD and extra sway bar at the rear would go sideways if you looked at the throttle too hard in a corner. That was mostly a tyre problem (they were so old and hard they took 3 laps at the track in the dry to start gripping properly and went off after 6 laps!).

I agree - its a lot of car for that many $$$ ... assuming it checks out mechanically (I've gone on about that enough times --- M car, get a good prepurchase inspection).

Well given someone else posted above with the same problem there, and its a heavy truck route in and out of the port diesel is possible. Any dodgy suspension mods? Car so low its got lots of camber and no rear contact patch? E36 aren't nearly as bad as an E30 (assuming both with an LSD). You have to REALLY try (ie, being deliberate), even yesterday, to get my car to do anything more than twitch the rear end a little. Other stuff matters too, like the tyres and how stiff the car is.

Glenn - does the 75W80 make it more notchy when cold?

Any idea why its overfueling? It could be a faulty sensor(s).

3.64*0.81 = 2.95 (assuming a 1:1), so you'd want a 2.97 (or a 3.15 if shorter). Rev calculator (doesn't work very well in firefox): http://members.dodo.com.au/~wawawa/revs.htm