CamB

I bought some Ireland Engineering ones but haven't had them installed yet. Huuuuuuge eccentric. There's a really awesome Datsun 510 solution which someone should BMW-replicate. It'd be way easier to adjust: http://www.datsport.com/Adjustable_rear_cross_member.html

I hope he's running smaller diameter than that on an E30! John - I agree with Glenn - you need to consider what you want and a 3.46 doesn't sound like it. It will only drop you to 3100ish rpm. What's the goal? Low rpm/fuel economy or acceleration/performance?

I had one of those! It was great*. * at fuel economy.

That'd be one of the better ones in the universe - more than just NZ - due to low km. It's got some great extras too. I personally think its worth the asking price or on the way there, but its been for sale on and off for quite some time. I guess it needs to find the right buyer...

Yeah I bought a crank from him a year or so back - just as advertised.

That map sensor for the MS is US$65. You can get a 5 bar VEMS one for about EUR 50 - not much different. The Link one is expensive though!! What chew said about automotive spec, plus the loom and quality control.

I know what you're saying, but bad example ---> you only have to buy a 5 bar map sensor for that (and pretty sure you'd need that with the MS too), not a new ECU. Drawback to MS is that its not proper automotive spec, plus if you can't DIY (and DIY 100%) the price difference to a Link is not enough in my opinion.

Looks awesome. Not the crappiest E30 in the Hawkes Bay any more (or whatever it was the cop told you)...

I agree with JiB - they might hit the strut.

Really? I always wear the front left the most at Puke (admittedly RWD, but I'd expect no different on FWD). Pretty even on the others although I'd expect a FWD to mostly wear the fronts (and the rears not much at all). Either way, driver made a mistake (and most do sometime...) and its an unforgiving place to do that. Sh1t happens - its his mistake and his consequences. I'm not sure he deserves heavy criticism as I doubt he was being a d1ck when it happened.

PM JiB and ask what he had done for his spacers.

Awesome! Is that an S300 of some sort? http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarn...or-housing.html Assuming it is, make sure you get a "split pulse" manifold as that should improve spooling.

Speaking of the dealer menu, on my car if you set the OBCs speed limit function (it makes a noise when you get to that speed), the speedos indicated speed is about 5% higher.

Yeah was actually just worried about your speedo being really wrong not just "normal" wrong (or that you think 8500rpm is a good idea and had the limiter changed!). Makes sense knowing that you changed into 4th and kept going. My car (shorter third, shorter diff) says its doing over 160kph in third at 7k rpm. Reality is a few % lower, just normal speedo conservatism. More importantly, acceleration is still awesome. I'm guessing with a few hundred kg less, your acceleration is even more awesome.

Hadn't thought about the "tin going through the engine". Had wondered when I read it what kind of muppet drives 100,000km without checking to see if his wastegate can be fixed*. * a further thought - does a wastegate stick closed or open if its seized? Closed!?!? WTF - overboost.

I am an unbeliever - it sounds like homeopathy. That is all.

3rd gear, with your diff and tyres* needs something like 8500rpm to go past 200kph (if I worked it out correctly). * Although I was too lazy to check - memory suggested a 2.93 diff (or is it a 3.15 - an M-coupe standard one)?, 225/40R18 and a 5spd. <pause while searching> OK, I'll do it properly as I've looked back through the thread and see its 245/40R18 (650mm diameter). Assuming a 1.66:1 third gear and two diff options: - a 2.93 --- 201kph @ 8,000rpm - a 3.15 --- 199kph @ 8,500rpm Now I think about it, you probably have the standard 3.15 M-coupe one?

Awesome! (but I think you might need a speedo recalibration* ) * unless you went to at least 8k rpm, in which case --- ONWARD!

Choose whatever your tuner likes (ie - see answers above) - if they save time tuning it, you save money. I reckon a Link G4 - worth it over a G3 for the data logging. Looking forward to this project Do you require a Holset turbo?

BP Ultimate or Mobil 8000 - my car requires 98 and the wife's car runs better on it (Skoda with extra boosts). Theoretically the Gull stuff ok, but not keen to try it.

True, true ... but an M3 has a whole lot of bits with ///M stamped on them and: 1) they cost 1.5-3x normal E36 prices (ex BMW); plus 2) they aren't available OEM, so you have to get them from BMW (adding another premium).

I'll be interested to see how it goes too. There aren't "tons" of 240 M10 boxes behind mega-power M10s - usually they stick a 26x behind it.* However, I see no reason why Ben shouldn't try the M10 box. Nothing ventured, nothing gained (or lost). M10 boxes are cheap, and I'm hoping I can get one to last behind my turbo race engine when I eventually get it going, simply because I have 3 of them and I don't like the alternative (trying to fix a 265 in a 2002 tunnel, or converting to a Toyota W5x box). * although "good & tight" - a dude in the USA, used a 500,000 km transmission for 300hp+ for a while http://www.r3vlimited.com/BOARD/showthread.php?t=61092 until this happened... http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.ph...highlight=block and now he has an M30 (with a proper transmission) and a HUGE turbo. This guy could have a whole rangi-mod thread.

KM aren't necessarily a problem. I'd never buy an M3 without getting it checked. Too much that can go wrong which is $$$ to fix.

Agree with that - he did my car a couple of weeks ago and very happy with his service.

420hp @7,000ish rpm and 18psi (some dude in the USA)