CamB

That's 3-5k in parts, at a guess (minimum). Its not the crank and dicking around to get it to work that's going to cost a lot - its the headwork, camshaft, pistons (maybe), rockers that are ok at 7500rpm, headers, ECU, etc etc. Maybe, just maybe, it can be done cheaper if you are the king of DIY. A "normal" budget 2.7 / 2.8 stroker is going to be just like a 325 only plus 8-10% (if you're lucky). Its not that much faster at the track and the money is better spent on (for example) the headers which show about the same gain or making sure the suspension is good, or an LSD (with a good ratio for the track, like a 3.91), or tyres.

Are you sure you need a stroker?

Another vote for wagoning it.

Did he mind?

I am so looking forward to the day this thing is finished* * I actually mean "stuck on a dyno" - I'd love to see the shape of the power curve. I'm thinking high and wide

Thank you Glenn - you've answered one of my life's great unanswered questions ("Am I at risk of blowing something up as I do this?").

Was it Mike's one? http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8958

Very cool to see you made it to the track (and had fun) - congrats

Its not about damage worry/affording the way you word it (speaking very hypothetically) - I think its more about avoiding a writeoff/reshell. On the other hand, the advantage of having spent $140k on a race car is that its always economic to repair it....

I'm not so sure. There's a natural tension between wanting the E30 with it's awesome provenance and wanting a car I could race without worrying about wrecking (refer "provenance").

Very nice - any pics of the interior?

I reckon they're replicas - no recess for the ///M logo. I could be wrong though. Even if they're not, they're fronts not the staggered pair.

Oops - quite right. I shouldn't post while multitasking (I focused on the 2*25').

Lol @ axle stands. I wouldn't trust them (at least not going under it). If those are road pads they won't last long, so make sure you check them **at** the track.

How low is it? Would explain the rear camber. I'm with 3pedals - the lack of front castor on one side suggests something needs replacing (its not adjustable).

Geez- about the 4th one down (in German) says they're good in the rain and 250kph (hopefully not at the same time). He's brave.

I'm sure someone will chime in and say the 3.2 has unreliable double vanos and a fragile Getrag 6 spd gearbox. On the positive side, its got a little more power, floating front rotors, more castor and the world's strongest diff. Mine's been fine, but as a sample of one I am not sure that is a good reference point! I agree you should buy on condition, although your commute does lend itself to a lower km car.

The "painful" was possibly because HP is torque x rpm (as a simplification). Do you really need 400hp? i can't imagine tyre choices that fit on an E30 dealing with 300rwhp let alone 400rwhp.

I think most cars without a spoiler are going to get light at 230kph. Its just not a problem most people have at the track! My 2002 would barely squeak to 170kph at Puke (needed a tailwind, otherwise high 160kph).

You don't need slotted rotors. Vented means something else (as noted elsewhere). (edit) and now I see in a detailed way right there ^

Any new information?

I remember looking into it and thats a bit of a fundamental problem with the 1 coupe - it weighs almost as much as an equivalent 3 series. I mean ... WTF?

Good work! Answer noted (just in case)

Thanks - I actually meant did you (or he - Tim) strip the old paint off the centres. I can't be bothered! I've got two piece (I have disassembled them), and interestingly the mounting face on the centre is painted - assuming they're not already refinished I guess the factory backed themselves to get the paint a uniform thickness. I guess if I get myself out there I have to choose from 1 million colour options...

Lovely Where'd you go for the powdercoating? Did you strip first (the centres, not your clothes)? PM me the cost?