CamB

you're right - I read "silver E30" and the area without clicking the plate. I'd rather mops' one

That's "mops" - 2.7 holset powered. He has a massive build thread on e30tech.com

Since no-ones mentioned it, approach the Jatco auto transmission with caution, there are lots of bushings that can need replacing, its common for the headlining to start falling down and window problems seem to be common too. Oh yeah, and M3 water pumps are $650+GST if you need one in a hurry. Haha

Well, well, well, will you look at that: Actually in all seriousness, someone should do the maths, coz I can't.

This applies basically anywhere (unless you can drive around the outside of someone).

Got some H&R sports into the M3 - seems to have lowered it by about 10mm at the front and 0mm at the back. I'm happy - I wanted stiffer (and they are) without too much lower as I'm too old to value low ahead of ease of negotiating judderbars and driveway. Plus, it was an excellent excuse to spend $$$ on tools.

Just make sure you get the correct grade bolts (ie high enough).

Ooops, I had read the same article but recalled it incorrectly. Naughty me.

How many millimetres of washers are you guys using and what was the camber change? Internets research suggests you get ~0.5 deg per washer (per 2.5mm). I could go an extra 0.5 deg - I've got less than 1 deg now.

Be interested to know the answer - have worked on the (non-engineering background) basis in the past that the increase in cross-sectional area of the bar (ie you simply take the change in diameter ^2) is the increase in stiffness. Certainly this is how they get 144% (120% ^ 2).

It fits, but you need a matching gearbox (they don't have swappable bellhousings) as your box only fits an M10 or an M30 (or an S14 or S38, to be pedantic). You'd need all the bits from the 325i - engine mount, computer and loom, radiator, hoses, flywheel, clutch, propshaft, etc. Basically everything between the radiator and the diff. I have no idea how easy the wiring swap would be, but I'd guess not that easy. You'd also need new front springs for the heavier engine, ETC ETC. Basically, buy a 325i.

I'm gonna bump this. I still wouldn't mind a 3.62/3.64 or 3.73 or even a 3.91 large case LSD. Possible candidates include early 535i auto or 735i auto, M5, M6 etc.

Well you've got plenty of options there. Who wants to sell me a 3.62, 3.64 or 3.73 large case ring and pinion?

The last option is surprisingly expensive. Their camber plates aren't cheap.

I have no experience with those coilovers, so won't offer an opinion Its to do with being low, having a high enough spring rate for your goal AND avoiding coil bind (and, for New Zealand, having captive springs). Let me know if that's not clear and I'll do a better job explaining.

Not the 420 - that was replaced by the XJ6 which is the relic you speak of. I had one (and XJ6, although the 420 is mechanically similar) for a while. Awesome to drive. Expensive to fill. Rusted to death.

Just to clarify - it sounds cool to be able to lower and raise your car all the time (eg up to get warrants, down to get chicks). However, if you really need an alignment each time unless the change is small.

My 2c - not really a **big** advantage. Mostly the advantage with coilovers is that you can: - coilovers are narrow - you can use them with adjustable strut top mounts to get more camber - you can shorten the struts (and use shorter shocks - eg the Ground Control kit) and have the car much lower but still in the shocks good working range - you can corner weight the car - a wide variety (and easy to replace) springs These are advantages ... but the E30 series guys manage to be pretty damn quick using regular springs and shocks. Maybe they can chime in with what they'd like to do differently (I understand more camber?).

You've only had it 5 minutes! And its blue anyway.

I wasn't criticising - a google for axis oldskool e30 returns nothing. You have to know where to look

Search r3vlimited for Axis oldskool - you'll find some pics pretty easily, eg: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=150017

It would definitely need a cert. More importantly, you can't go far without hitting the tyre.

Or raise the back by putting an appropriate spacer in...

???

Yep! I live down that way - on my way home from work.