CamB

Check out the thread above - conversion to 5 stud is expensive (E30 M3 front struts or cobble together e36 struts and e36 M3 Evo lower arms, with E30 M3 or e36 318ti rear trailing arms, plus some other stuff). Conversion spacers are possible, but probably not for 4x100 to 5x100 (or 5x anything - I wouldn't trust them), plus even if they are you may have very little offset to work with on an E30 (meaning no dish on the LMs), and they'll need a cert. Google tells me there are BBS LM's out there in 4 stud, but they are ridiculously expensive. Having said what I did above about offset, the ones for sale in 4x100 seem to be 40 offset so would need a spacer on an E30. http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=%22bbs+lm%22+%224x100%22

Yes I did thanks. Too many cars means I won't be in the bidding for that one. Simply as a parts car (which is sort of a waste) that should be awesome for someone - it should go for a pretty decent price as it is a 2002tii engine, and supposedly has a 5 speed (I rang and asked - not a dog-leg one so who knows what its from). It probably has tii spec 4 pot front calipers too. Rust looks nasty though. I really need only a short block or just the block itself.

I'm looking after a 2 litre (rather than 1.8) M10 engine from either a 2002 or 320i e21. I'm after it for the crank and block (or even just the block), so not looking to pay much. I already have a 318i M10 and a suitable crank (m3 one, as it happens), but would prefer an earlier block for what I want to do (tuuuuurbo). Anyone have anything? Any leads on anything?

More specifically, US$140 for the MLS and I was quoted a (very) wide range of $130-200 for the ARP studs. $130 is a bit too good to be true... www.racetep.com Given I can get a standard headgasket for under $100, and o-ringing is $100 (for a 4 cylinder), I am tempted to stick with that option. On top of that, M10 (but not M20) head studs are non-stretch and have a reputation for being pretty strong. They're not that expensive new, or I could re-use... Or I could go the full deal and get MLS, ARP head studs and JE Pistons from racetep.com for ~NZ$1500 landed in NZ including GST. It's very tempting, although if I went down this route I could easily spend the same again having the block bored/decked/crack tested/etc, the rods tidied and getting everything balanced and assembled.

I've bought something from that guy before and it was as advertised, etc. He got me a pretty good shipping rate too. Googling his trademe name (something I do before buying something expensive to figure out if the seller is trustworthy) is good for a laugh too.

If you don't know when the oil was replaced, you should get it replaced.

You can get them from the US - Cometic MLS. You should also consider head studs (eg ARP - $$$ unfortunately), or at least some sort of uprated head bolts ---> see www.e30tech.com . You could also get your block o-ringed and use the standard h/g --> approx $100. Seems there are a few people (me included) looking for turbo parts at the moment. I've been given a price of about US$350 including freight (of US$60) for a MLS headgasket and ARP head stud kit for an M10.

Rattling is sometimes a side effect of having an unsprung clutch, but I think that noise is only there when the clutch is disengaged (clutch in). I guess your input shaft and/or release bearing could be stuffed. My release bearing is pretty noisy in neutral with the clutch out, but it is more a scraping sound.

I really just wish someone could take him out on a track and show him what understeer is. He's clearly clueless.

http://tradezone.co.nz/nzmap.asp www.sulco.co.nz (they'll courier it for sure). I'm pretty sure the M20 head bolts are a single use stretch bolt, so you need to buy new ones.

It might pay to list exactly what you goals etc are - at a guess, you are building up an M30 for boost, but plan to run it without boost for now. Are you going to run an aftermarket computer initially? Or just the factory one? What are your horsepower goals? If I've guessed correctly above, my thoughts are: 1) the injectors on the motor are probably fine until you get a turbo, at which point you could look at second-hand ones here (I'd imagine a set of 6x 450cc Evo/S15/etc injectors would support HEAPS of power) 2) I'm not sure you need aftermarket conrods - the standard ones are supposedly ok out toward 100hp/cylinder and you are better to spend that money on a good tune 3) Your standard fuel pump might be ok for now too - you only need a new fuel pump with the turbo I have no idea on the cost to recon your head (ok I have a figure in mind but it could be totally wrong, plus it depends on the amount of work you need and/or choose to have). You really should talk to topcat about what he did, or damo about what he's doing. They've both got M30 turbo experience. Cam

Motorsport NZ have been stuffing around with the rules and it may be that he wasn't allowed to run Avgas - it depends on the championship. Plus, Avgas is leaded (its over 100 octane IIRC), so not ok for cars with catalystic converters or oxy sensors. But it smells awesome, and is (comparatively) cheap.

I see you've gone $1 reserve on Tardme! I would be keen as but am under strict, strict instructions from my wife - something about "blah blah blah no more cars blah blah". Good luck!

Size (assume medium case, but M3 has large I believe so best to ask)? Lockup/breakaway (ft lbs)? Kms? Thanks

So the '91 plug won't work with the '94 box? Or the boxes are so different the '94 doesn't have the plug? Rover V8 is very 80/90s conversion - the new hot ticket is the Toyota/Lexus V8 - usually about $1000, 250hp and come with a free auto trans. Not getting an answer to a very specific technical question for 20 minutes is not "quiet"!

I'd have thought (note - no research) you'd get an Evo engine cheaper out of the UK or Europe given that's where they come from. Shipping etc probably worse though, but all the Evo engines in the US would have come from Europe anyway.

Cool - if he changes his mind let me know. My 5spd box is a straight swap size-wise to an E30 240 for an M10. The only difference between the E30 box and the E21 box is the end plate has a speedo drive. I'd be happy with only $200 plus an E30 box if I knew the box I was swapping with was good (no leaks or crunches). There is no way he can get a working speedo for less than that (unless he is a fabrication wizard).

Singapore, km and the SMG detract from the value personally - I think SMGs fine but wouldn't want it at high km. I also don't like the interior colour. I think it's definitely cheap, but the market is speaking ---> there are a lot for sale at $50-60k with lower km, NZ new, that are just not moving. I bought my E36 M3 more than 2 months ago, after about a month of looking, and I recognise about half the E46 M3s for sale from that period. Compare it to this similar car, which might not sell this time either at $39.5k no reserve (despite another price drop): http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-157643376.htm

Could be 4 cylinder vs 6 cylinder - then they wouldn't work. Thinking about it, I have 2x 4spd Getrag 242 in reasonable condition (one whines slightly, one has a worn 2nd gear synchro), plus an old clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch slave and 2002 driveshaft (probably too short for an e21). All that's missing is crossmember and gear shift (I have the gear cradle etc too but it would need a new shift rod and gear lever as the ones I have are stuffed), plus something would need to be done with the driveshaft. I probably have the speedo cable too. Do I need to talk to your mate about whether he'd be keen on this - it's a 4spd option and I'd be happy with $250 for the lot (no need to swap anything like I'd want for the 5spd).

Tell us about the flywheel/clutch! The dual mass flywheel in my M3 is horrible.

Dunno - the spec says 7.5", right? Let me know how you get on since I am thinking about it. Please drive aggressively and thoroughly test them, LOL.

The chopper ring would be very hard work. The box is a 240 - it comes from an '83 e21. It is the same as the e30 318i but with a speedo drive. Based on my experience, it fits on an e30 M10 and on a 2002 M10 - I don't see why it wouldn't fit the e21 that it came from! I don't know about the driveshaft, but the comment about cutting up a standard one is probably correct. I'd want $400 PLUS your mate's e30 318i box, and that's for the box plus speedo cable plus old clutch/pressure plate, but nothing else (I need the throwout bearing, slave, and shift cradle). As I said, the box shifts well etc - the only issues are that it whines slightly and leaks a little from the speedo cable hole. I replaced the input and output seals.

The diff idea might work, but would be hard as the back plates are different and the sensor mounts through the back. From having looked in there, but not tried, I'd guess the chopper ring from the E30 diff would fit (R&P is the same for e21 and e30 small case). Alternatively, he could: a) put in a 4 speed. I have one (or maybe 2) that would be cheap as chips. The problem with them would be finding the right length propshaft b ) put in some sort of aftermarket speedo c) I have the correct e21 5 speed and could be convinced to part with it for the right $$$. It has the speedo cable, and it whines a little). I don't really want to sell it coz it would mean I have to stuff around getting a speedo to work in my car

Yeah I wondered when I read the first post if PRO-MA MBL8 works on BMW lifters the same as on Mitsi lifters. It is like magic on those Mitsis - they sound like they're dying without it and go completely quiet with it. Before recommending Emma try it, does anyone know if it definitely works on BMWs (the problem on Mitsis is small orifices into the lifter get clogged up, and the MBL8 fixes it). If yes, I bought it at Segedins in Dominion Rd Auckland for +/- $35. Emma - you need someone who knows what a noisy lifter/lifters sounds like to tell you if that's the problem before trying the stuff.

Mate I hate to tell you this but if you successfully get 500hp in an E30, it would be irresponsible not to get a big brake kit. Bigger brakes should go with more power.