Matt

If you click on the pictures there's more info about each one. Dodge Tomahawk... "Yes, just a dream ~ we needed something to fill up the motorcycle line on this page, and what better than this, surely the most outrageous machine ever to have wheels bolted on to it !"

Heard you guys came 7th. Pretty good effort considering the problems the car had at the end. Is everyone back now? I need to give Ollie a call...

I got a leather knob for $115 from the dealer. But that doesn't come with the shift pattern badge which was an extra $24 from euro-italian. Definitely not cheap but so worth it to me. I had a look on ebay uk when i was wanting one and i think i worked it out it would've cost $130 by the time it was shipped here. Maybe i was just looking in the wrong place.

The heater on my sisters e36 318is (m44) hasn't been working this winter so I took apart her heater valve and the rubber inside has completely perished. Anyone got a good condition second hand unit for sale I can replace it with? Thanks, Matt

Check out this model A. Such a badass build. It's really worth checking out the build pics from the link in the info section. Awesome attention to detail.

2.4L flat plane crank v8. 390hp @10500rpm. Based on two ZX12R bike engines.

This was at Big Boys Toys last year. I had a really good chat to the guy who built it. Was really interesting and the work he's done is just incredible!

Haha, I'm glad I'm not the only one. I bought the red one off Glenn. I'll check the gearbox oil tomorrow and see what shows up. I think you might be right though about just trying to find another box. Oh, I forgot to mention before that it seems to be worse when the gearbox is warm than when it's cold. Might as well give all the info I can, I suppose!

Ok, having a bit of trouble with my fourth gear When down shifting from fifth to fourth it keeps popping out of gear when I re-engagE the clutch. It slots in fine, but then when I let the clutch back out the gear will pop straight out. Then if i put my foot back on the clutch and try to put the gear quickly back in it will crunch and not engage. It doesn't do it all the time but it is especially prone to it when the revs have to rise to over ~2500-3000rpm after the shift. I have had no trouble at all so far on up shifts and it only happens on fourth gear. Any ideas what this could be? Synchros? Shifter fork? There is a z3 short shifter fitted if that makes a difference. Does it sound like something fixable or are these the signs of a terminal gearbox? Thanks, Matt.

To do it I actually removed the rear windows from the car, then the rubber is really easy to reach and you can just pull it off. Also makes it heaps easier to put the new rubber on. To remove the window: 1) pull off the C-pillar trim (this just unclips) and remove window latch screws 2) Remove the B-pillar trim. To do that you first gotta remove the seat belt from the B-pillar: Undo the bolt holding the seat belt onto the B-pillar. This is just under a small piece of trim where the seatbelt anchor swivels.Then pull off the the knob thingy that lets the seat belt anchor slide up and down. Then you can remove the plastic trim (you might need to pull away the door and window rubber trim). Then unbolt the seat belt sliding anchor from the b-pillar. 3) You'll then be able to see where the rear window bolts in and you'll be able to remove it. Make sure you're holding onto the window when you remove it though, obviously, 'cause you don't want to drop it. Also keep an eye on the window latch that it doesn't scratch right down on your paint if the window starts pivoting around or something. Then pull off the old rubber and slot on the new one in its place. Just pay attention to how the old one is attached in relation to the other rubber trim around the windows. Saves having to do any guesswork when you put the new one on. Put the window back on in reverse order to above. Hope that's all easy enough to follow!

I replaced the rubber on the rear corners not long ago on my old car. It was $43 each side from the dealer. It was a very simple replacement and made it look so much nicer! The old ones actually crumbled apart when I pulled them off.

Yeah man, I'm really excited about it. I'm picking it up later in the week. Will bring it round for you to see sometime next week maybe.

I would if it still had all the interior! How difficult would it be to remove the roll cage and does anyone have carpet and seats to fit back in it?

I'm pretty sure I know the one you mean. It's an '86 924s for $5900. I was interested in it when i saw it but it is an automatic which put me off.

Thanks but not quite what I'm after

Hey guys, I'm a long time lurker on this forum and figured it'd be the best place to look to get a decent e30. I've been driving an e36 for the last 2 years and am sick of it and keen as to get back into another e30. I'm really after a 6 cylinder (although I'd jump at a 318is) in manual . I'd prefer a coupe but could be swayed by a nice looking sedan. I don't really want to spend any more than $5k. I'm not too fussed about how many k's it's done as long as it's been looked after well. Ideally for me would be a 325i coupe but not sure whether I could pick one of those up on my budget. If anyone has or knows of something suitable please let me know Cheers, Matt PS. I live on the North Shore but would travel for the right car (within the North Island at least)

to be honest its is just as wet up by the drivers pedals as it is in the rear passenger footwell. At he base of the windscreen, the rubber that connects to the top of the cowling and the base of the windscreen is pretty corroded. I just flicked a bit and some snapped off. Sounds like it could be a pretty likely culprit then, eh? I've undone the bolts for the wipers to take them off and inspect under the cowling but the wiper arms wont even budge they're so tightly stuck on. Am i likely to break anything (on the car, not myself) if i yank for all its worth or is there a better way of going about it? Anyone got any tips for removing the accelerator pedal so i can properly remove the carpet as well? Help so far is great, thanks guys!

The car does have sunroof. Surely though if it was leaking from there i'd notice water on top of the carpet too?

Sweet, I'll have a good poke around there and see what i can find.I have the carpet partially lifted at the moment. The only thing stopping me from taking it out is the bloody accelerator pedal which i can't figure out how to remove and really don't want to break! Ive got a dehumidifier sitting in there as well to try and dry it out. Cheers for the help

Oh, car is facelift e36 coupe if that helps narrow down what the problem could be. Cheers

Hi everyone, I don't really ever post anything much here but am often reading through all the threads but now i'm in need of some help! I was just cleaning the inside of my car and when i lifted up the carpet in front of the back seat to vacuum i noticed a heap of water underneath the carpet! I have no pulled up a heap of the carpet and it is soaking wet underneath on the drivers side (passenger side is totally dry. Weird thing is that the carpet itself is completely dry but the foam underneath is really saturated. Any ideas on where all this water could have come from? There's some pipes under the seat that look like they could have something to do with air con, is it likely to have anything to do with that? cheers for any help you can point my way, Matt

Bugger, my dad has taken his tool kit away with him for the weekend, so i dont even have so much as a spanner to loosen off the alternator. I'm assuming it'll be ok to drive around for the weekend unless the alternator actually stops charging. Fair assumption?? Thanks everyone for all the help, btw.

Ok, just used a piece of dowel to listen into the engine (such a good idea by the way!!) and the noise defintely seems to be coming from alternator. Engine sounds quite as when the dowel is on it but as soon as i stuck it on the alternator the noise sounded real clear thropugh the dowel. Does this mean bearing in alternator is shot?? Easy to fix??

Hmmm... The car's just had a major service and all belts were replaced, plus a belt tensioner too i think. I think there might have been a pulley with a shot bearing that was replaced as well, but i'm not sure, i may just be thinking of the belt tensioner. Does anyone have any recommendations for easy ways i can eliminate common causes of this as the actual problem??