zenetti

We just landed a sample set of E39 Height adjustable shocks and springs if you are interested. $895, cheers.

This whole thread...lol

haha +1

^ That last shot shows how much extra guard work needs to be done to make them fit. They are definitely not factory, and looking at the tyre you can't legally run that much stretch here in NZ

While I'd really like some BBS' they are sooo expensive haha. Been looking at some forum posts from the US and decided I'll probably cop myself some Avant Garde M310s in black, most likely with either Falken FK452s or Eagle F1s.

Hi Mike

Welcome to the forums. We have a lot of BBS Replica and OE replica wheels in stock that will suit your 330 perfectly. we can also help out with with lowering if you need. Pop in and see us in Penrose sometime.

cheers

Johno

Thanks i probably wont go that low because i still need to use car as daily. I was looking at one of your wheels on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=360846177

i was thinking of running a 15mm spacer at the back, rolling guards and dropping it where its just tucking a bit of the tyre.

do you think that will work/ look good?

Those wheels always look good on BMW's, and we can do a super sharp deal for you as you are a BS member.

Spacers - I can't comment as professionally it doesn't look good to recommend something that is potentially going to be illegal.

Can you define "very stretched"?

215/45 on a 9" wheel?

A while back John (E30ftw) posted up a copy of the new tyre/rim width combinations. I am sure from memory you now have a have a 225 on a 9" wide rim (depending on size/profile etc)

They won't fit. A 17x9 at 35 will foul big time on the front suspension.

That's an M3, they have a different offset on the rear to standard E46's.

OP - to get that stance you will need coilovers and some serious guard work. Cert laws here mean that you can't run a very stretched tyre any more so you prob won't get it exactlyt like your pic.

My grandperants (stock) 911 Turbo Cab does that too, they live in wellington though and thier driveway is an abortion of a thing, the front wheel is about 750mm in the air as they enter the garage. Thank goodness for RWD

Really 750mm - 3/4's of a metre

Without actually viewing the car it is pretty hard to diagnose what the problem is. Are there any marks on the tyre that indicate it is rubbing on the guard? If there are no scuff marks then the tyre isn't rubbing and the noise will be something else.

I don't think the wheels really matter on the cert plate, my wheels are different than stated on it. And so are a lot of others i know of.

Unfortunately it does matter

If your wheels are different to the size stated on your cert plate then you can get green/pink stickered.

It is a silly rule but your wheels must be the size/width stated. If you change them then you have to get it recerted.

A lot of high end tires are more expensive here due to the manufactures mark up on ya general seller. your average 'good' tyre shop hasn't got that bigger of a margin on the tyre its usually cost of tyre, fitting, balancing, shipping, casing disposal, gst and a bit of labour time.

just dont forget us little guys that are fitting rubber, we need customers too

Well said

It is a constant battle we have as well and it is all to do with the incredibly low volume of high end tyres we use compared to other countries world wide.

To put things into perspective if you took the entire country's tyre sales for a year, it would comfortably fit into a weeks production for most tyre factories.

OP: What brand and size tyre are you looking for? Give us a go - you never know.

Also, other members have told you to include the extra charges but no one has mentioned fitting and balancing as well.

springs vary in price as mentioned in the posts above.

However.................

The cost is in the labour on E39's. The rear springs are a PITA to get to, and you have to remove the rear seats, parcel tray etc to access the rear shock. Budget around 3-4 hours worth of labour so probably between $600-$800 incl installation.

Toyo R888’s are great for the week or so they last. Dunlop’s are mega bucks but far superior and will last a few more days.

I would have to disagree with you there. From all the feedback we get, 99% of our customers prefer the R888's.

maybe you need to learn how to drive smoothly

Nice! About time something like this happened. I actually don't understand why NZV8's don't just run old V8 Supercars. Surely it isn't hard to put a rule in place that says they must be 2 years old (or something similar).

The current NZV8's really are dinosaurs. They can't even have a standing start!

no there is a ride height issue (as well as maybe wheel issue). I cant carry 2 passengers without rear tyres rubbing. but any way, I like my wheels, dont like the springs so out they go.

just want to raise the vehicle.

it just needs a tape measure people.

you don't need a tape measure

King springs are approx 45mm lower than factory springs.

If you have the correct size tyres, correct offset wheels, even when you lower a car it won't rub. If your shocks are worn out, even with the factory springs it will probably still rub.

I am not trying to be a w*nker, just merely pointing out that changing springs may not solve the problem

what size tyres are you running in the rear and what offset are the wheels?

cheers, yes I understand spring rate will be higher (probabley in front more than rears).

just want to know what ride height to expect by comparing actual length of springs. Want to replace my king springs as they are too soft for the low ride height: bottoms shocks and tyres on upper guards on bumpy roads. Not cool!

this way it save me some time putting in the springs and visually seeing the ride height.

or even better, if anyone has some standard 318is springs they want to give away, I'll take them! or if someone wants a low rider we can do a swap, if thats their thing.

cheers

The factory springs should be the same length as the 320 springs.

King Springs are generally around 45mm lower than factory springs.

and........... it sounds like you need new shocks not springs. If your shocks are worn out they will bottom out just as you describe. Have you checked the bumpstops to see what condition they are in? It also sounds like you may not have the right tyre size/wheel offset on there.

You could double the rate of your springs and it will still behave as you say if the shocks are not working properly.

17" BBS reps from Jono (Zenetti) Would look mint on a black car!!

We can do 17" BBS with new tyres for well under $1500

Could a kind member with a set of standard e36 318is springs lying around please measure the length of the springs?

I wish to compare to a set of 320i springs I have picked up for very little $$

cheers

The 320 springs will more than likely be the same length as your 318 springs. However due to the 6 cyclinder being heavier the front springs will be a thicker diameter wire or "stronger" to compensate for the extra weight. If you put them in it will raise your 318. The rears should be identical.

Initially I was but they seem pricey and most of them are to big for what im after. Please explain "counter grub screws being drilled into the wheel" ? All you need is longer wheel bolts for this spacer? Correct me please

I am not sure what the laws are in Aust but here any spacer/adaptor must either be mounted to the hub(bolt on type) or to the wheel (what Josh did) to pass an LVV cert. I can only assume the rules in OZ will either be the same or tighter.

Bloody hell, thats cheap compared to here. They are selling for US$4.00 a packet here.

Maybe they just saw me and thought lets rip the dumb foreigner off. Well it worked! I walked away with two packets of Chocolate Mint.

Chocolate Mint

we don't get that here

view our listing on Trade Me

Wheels are all in very good condition - $295 for all 4

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-358257050.htm

Vehicle: 1985 BMW 320i (E30)

Wheels: TSW Stealth 15x7 front, 16x7.5 rear

Problem:

Ever since having the new wheels fitted I have had issues with a vibration through the steering wheel between 65kph and 85kph. It's just been rather annoying so far, not causing any other issues but I want to get on top of it before it does. The wheels were balanced before fitting, however car has not had a wheel alignment since being fitted. I removed one wheel just before, and it's quite obvious that they have a hub size larger than that of my car, so perhaps requires hubcentric rims?

Does this sound like a probable cause for my problems? And also, who would carry hubcentric rings for my car? Perhaps Johnno? I am off to buy a Caliper soon so I can measure the wheel's hub dimensions.

Also, the wheel is stepped on the inside. A large diameter hole, rather shallow, and then smaller diameter right through... I assume I'm measuring the smaller diameter? As the larger one is probably in excess of 100mm. Smaller seems somewhere around 60mm...

Cheers for any help provided .

You definitley need hubcentric rings. Your hub on the E30 should be 57mm. If you can measure the wheel bore diameter i will see if I have any rings here

I am glad you saw the sarcasm font... other members on here *cough cough* would probably have gotten their e-panties in a twist

BTW - nice perspex on those wheels - something for you to contemplate on the m3??

Any wheel will fit any car, depending on how much money you spend making them fit.

great bit of advice to give a noob .

You must have an awesome engineering shop . Try putting a 19x10.5 on the front of a commodore!

Not everyone wants the hella flush, poked and stanced look. The majority of people just want a good looking wheel that fits legally and properly without the addition of spacers, guard rolling etc

Back OT - Matt - it is generally around $100 to get all 4 wheels machined out but you wil have to get the tyres stripped off first so that they can put the wheel on the lathe. We have new options available in 19" with new tyres for under $2k

cheers

Johno