-
Content Count
850 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Everything posted by tibbs.james
-
Bumping mega old post i know Anybody have any leads on what happened to this car, I'm interested to know if it got parted out and such. Worst mistake i ever made to sell this car, still miss it heaps. I notice DNH570 on carjam is lapsed/dead
-
Hi Guys Some of you may remember me , I was fairly involved with my E30 for about 2 years via Bimmersport, then I sold my car and moved into gear to finish my 300zx Turbo Street/Track day car. So I randomly came back for a visit to establish what happened to my E30 It was Rego DNH570 1990 320i converted to manual . 4 door with leather, Koni's Eibachs and 325 Motorsport sway bars and Ireland Engineering bushings all around, it was a sweet as hell little slow fun car. I sold it to Member "flake" here who converted it to M50 but after that i have not seen or heard of it since. Its been 2 years and I really miss this car I know its dead reg now but if anybody knows of its Whereabouts post it up. If its been wrecked I hope the goodies were kept in the Bimmersport family Regards Jimmy
-
haha if Dave bought that gearbox it was one he sold to me like 4 years ago That gearbox actually went ok in my old car, i just put in a better one but yeah it needed a freshen up
-
Ive had the 300zx out boosting around today , Can't wait to give ya a drag a the track sometime !
-
Nice Job Henry Are you going to fit a smoother down pipe to that exhaust ? I Cut one of those OEM Nissan ones in half and it was a bit of a pig looking thing on the inside Pretty Much a Right angle bend. Looks like you have plenty of room if you grab a flange and a 3" mandrel U bend. It won't take you long to build something like this $ 50 flange and some Mandel bend's later if you heat wrap it make sure you paint it with ceramic header paint after you wrap it so that the heat wrap wont go all frayed and crappy. If you don't wrap it you might find the floor gets a bit warm on that side > I know the passger's foot in the 300zx gets bloody warm
-
Eagerly awaiting Results, I have a set of 16x8 3pc Mesh rims very similar I want to rebuild ! Keep up the good work too.
-
I remember reading somewhere that up to like 4 or 5mm slip on spacers are legal if they meet certain criteria ect
-
Wow Been Busy on the car since the last update. * Exhaust head Wrapped & Re Fitted * Wide band sensor fitted into Exhaust * Power Wires and fuses run through firewall for data logger * DIY wheel alignment done ( close enough to get me to a proper laser alignment place ) * Sanded down some surface rust to and sealed it up with sealer NOT regular old primer * Fittied a Flash new K&N high performance/race oil filter and dropped the running in oil with cam additives for some mineral 15/40 to finish running in before a switch to synthetic Ams Oil Wired up my new Ignitor module, the old one still works fine but i don't want miss fires under boost in 5th gear at high rpm when something could easily be ruined from it. This car has also been fitted with a brand new crank angle sensor and other "prone to failure" on old cars kind of stuff Bled the clutch up & bypassed the stupid clutch damper with a 280zx brake hose, clutch still feels a bit light considering its a heavy duty one. Must investigate this further. Picked up my 3pc rims, i love them they are pretty dam 80's bad ass. Center bore needs to be opened up to fit so here is a pic with them held up to the car instead & other misc pics. tomorrow is day 1 of Road tuning. To anybody thinking tuning an EFI system is going to be cheap or easy "cos its a computer and it can just sort itself out" is way off the mark, it seems you need so much crap to do it. *Laptop *ECU which connects to laptop ( http://www.nistune.com is what I used in my original ECU ) *Data Logging unit *wide band Sensor for Data unit *Display gauge so the driver can see the air fuel mix ( and back the hell of if it lean spikes or something ) and the hardest part of all is somebody who knows what they are doing. I don't but my very experienced engineer/fabricator/expert on many things has tuned a lot of cars and is doing this with me. As you can see here I have added a proper spare tire as the space saver requires pumped up by a tiny air compressor to save on space aka supercar style
-
Rangiora North Canterbury , Red 2 door tech 2 outside subway totally mint car anybody here? 1:35pm today
-
I had the same steering wheel in my Jap Import E30
-
First Update in a long While But i have finally made some progress Engine now running on all 6 cylinders, 440cc GTR injectors fitted. Ordered a 3b1 Techedge Data Logger with 12 aux inputs and assiocated wideband oxygen sensor and display gauge. Found Period Correct Japanese Made Ellipson Mesh 3pc 16x7 front and 16x8 rear rims. Managed to fix a headlight fault, got all my indicators working, and also fabriacted up a new splash guard / under tray thing to replace the one I don't have. Feels like I am getting close to WOF & Road tuning, Even put a new hard drive and fixed the old laptop for this very reason ( worth fixing as it has a serial port and runs windows 7 mint Please excuse the splash guard, its not bolted down or painted yet.
-
Awesome Work keeey, Loving all the work you get up to !, See pic, Anybody else think this looks like a milk bottle
-
As far as I understand, cast alloy need to be perfectly clean to be welded if this is done a compentant welder preferably tig will do a neat job and it will be really strong. if you just give it a wipe and a rattle can degrease and have it mig welded the chances of it re cracking at the weld are a big higher. GL with the sump fix/ welding Let us know how the weld / repair turns out
-
Black number plates make me happy !
-
forgot to add this, http://nistune.com/
-
Henry, you may remember i told you all about nistune ? I have got it setup on my 300zx now and I have a little experience with it and calibrating new injectors and such. It will fit your ECU and the circuit board is about $350 if you want to come check it out let me know. With some engine management remapping and a fuel pressure regulator you might be able to hit 200kw without doing turbo or injectors and just a really decent remap and increase of base fuel pressure. you should even be able to get a tune online for a stock sr20 and then it would be very cheap to have tweaked on a Dyno. if you wish for a turbo upgrade I even have a good cond Garret T3 with a .63 exhaust housing which would give you sh*t loads of top end on a SR20 as its a popular upgrade for RB engines. give me rides in your car and you can pretty much have it/borrow for as required Those SR Injectors are 260cc min and I believe they are good for 300hp at the wheels
-
Water/Meth Injection sounds idealfor your setup, but 6psi isn't really enough to matter, many oem turbo setups on jap cars run 5-8 psi with no intercooler with no problems at all. I have heard of 12 psi + on some jap turbos running ok with no intercoolers.
-
Excellent Henry ! This will be a fantastic combination So how long until you get the boost bug and end up doing injectors, turbo and engine management upgrades ?
-
Awww hell yeah ! Well done looks great
-
Hydrualic lifters are working correctly, however i never really noticed that the rocker shafts were quite worn and causing all the clatter. So that's nice and easily solved. According to NZEFI my missfire symptoms seem to align with sensor / engine manage problems and not a mechanical problem. Looks like I could be in for a new AFM , Cylinder head Temp Sensor and Throttle Position sensor. Will plug in the laptop and do a diagnostic now i finally have my software registration code
-
Fixed up the Fuel Hose and got it fired up Still sounds like its missing somewhere, probably a plug wire not pushed on properly or something. I hope to get this rectified & some new plugs in there Hydrualic Lifters are all clattering to hell , need to get it warmed up and bleed up with oil so the valves open and close properly. Will see how it goes over the next few nights
-
I need a big Grom, Noob, Plod,Bro smack in the face No1 @ TDC = check Dizzy aligned properly = check Fuel in tank = check Charged up battery =check Cranked it over Spark, compression, should be fine...... still not going ..........checks spark.......moves dizzy one tooth forward, moves dizzy one tooth back ( about 2 hours and a couple good rum n cokes later ) gives up and goes into warm house. Looks and picture on BimmerSport and immediately spots the fuel lines around the wrong way to the fuel rail & FPR.
-
that dodgy looking arrangment of metal is my valve spring compresor for changing springs over in place on the car and yes that is my vivid writing on the plenum cover, i decided it quite important to vivid on there that no1 was at tdc on compression stroke & that the spark plugs are not tightened. Ready to be fired up again something this week and hope to run on all 6 cylinders. Factory ECU looks pretty spiffy with a USB port snuck in the side eh:?
-
This weekend *Reassembled Cylinder Head *Rebuilt Fuel rail with new 180psi hose and Clamps *Welded up a new Charge pipe so that it actually fits my new turbo ( this will later be used as part of the inter cooler piping ) *tidied up the MAF to Turbo intake piping with some 3" pipe and some blue couplers to make it look way neater *Tidied up most of the wiring so its not a mess anymore ( cable ties everywhere , still looks like sh*t meh ) *Fitted my Schneider 28022 springs in place using homemade tool *tossed on some new plug Wires painted up some sh*t with the wrong can of paint, oh well i started so I kept going Pretty much ready to fire it up and make sure it rungs on 6 banners this time and not just 5 but the valve that wasn't sealing appears to be all sorted. Also purchased some 440cc Injectors from Bronzemfp Looking forward to fitting these up especially now i have nistune back from my guy at work oh Yeah Went for a ride in a bad ass SR20det jet boat down my local braided shallow river, good times honing along on wet stones sliding and banging over rocks and doing massive big flick turns
-
for 3k LSD, Bilsteins, H&R springs, m3 front bushings + solid subframe mounts and new trailing arm bushings. plenty of fun can be had with relativiley little power. Seems whack I know but having heaps of power is going to suck without and LSD and some kind of decent way to get it to the ground. Good luck with the project 24V E30 swaps and being documented on here every other week so have a search and go nuts.