tibbs.james

Have a good one David !!

I would like one for my Nissan Z car, but it would only meaningfull to myself / enthusist

bit of a hijack I know but can somebody provide a decent photo of the strut Mount Swaybar setup ?

thats like going back in time Except better !

I usually hate Matte, But this actually looks kinda good.

On Friday I will be road tripping up to Hamilton to stay a night and see everything I can on Saturday, I have never been to Hamilton and I am really stoked to see Hampton Downs

Hey guys It turns out I won WRC tickets from radio Hauraki, so i booked tickets to palmy so i can road trip up to hampton downs with my fiance !! going to be a sweet weekend. I just wondered if anybody else was going ?

If you want a big English car that doesn't work and guzzles gas at least get a Range Rover and shove some big muddies on it for the awesome factor

Not to thread jack but would loctite cause a false torque reading ? With the some assembly lubes for fastners it can mention to only use 0.8xtorque spec due to the extra lubrication over a "dry fastner" with loctite being used without doing the calcs this could casue a false reading ? back on topic ( sorry guys ) I know myself i have had specific bolts just not want to torque up properly where say the other 11 clicked up real nice on the torque wrench. upon removal and measureing i have found one to be stretched ( used bolts ) I believe reusing bolts is not a huge deal if they have been properally measured and one is not found to have been out of spec vs the others. in saying this I have reused plenty of main bearing cap bolts but always used BRAND SPANKING rod bolts and head bolts. there is a speical type of caliper used for measuing stretch on bolts.

Not E30 but they are the real deal ...http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Mitsubishi/Interior/auction-286880883.htm

Don't go rubber Atta, they won't hold up to the torque, rileys car split an upgraded rubber mount in half pretty easy You have heard Rileys V8 idle and run smooth as a kitten on upgraded engine mounts. They are Polyurethane with a solid high tensile bolt through the middle. I can't see how you are getting vibration and shaking the whole car with the mounts that are in there. you must be dropping a cylinder or something is not running smoothy, as nolathane while being much harder than rubber will still dampen down what little vibration there is from a well balanced smooth bmw V8. don't assume its the engine mounts here as with rubber mounts the engine will probally move far enough to press on the steering and that could be very dangerous.

I will be going if I can get tickets, road trip to aucks perhaps

Shady North Canty types....... Nice But yeas i will keep an eye out if i see anybody local with a whole bunch of Nissan 200sx Parts Good luck with it-My nissan lives in a shady old shed

Sometimes its not about the odo reading because the car is good and tidy and runs well. sometimes it matters a LOT more for resale and financial reasons. There is no rule of thumb.

Looking the Business ! Loving the origional black rego plates !

Pretty Boring Update Gaskets Have been Ordered, replacement valve pulled from parts engine heads. Cylinder head being delivered to Cylinder Shop Tomorow morning. Progress is being made. Important stuff that i still need to do Get some new fuel line Make a heat sheild for the turbo Install a water line fitting kit on the turbo Run the bloody thing in Get my Nistune ECU back from the guy thats supposed to be soldering it up. Forget about modifications for a while and enjoy having a car at all. WOF WOF WOF WOF WOF Might even try the old "this car has no aftermarker support Install double swaybars trick" Should work quite nice with the Koni's & Kings and its free.

Well it certainly has been a long break since i worked on my pride and joy project 300zx $30 bonnet was way to rusty and munted so last week i found in CHCH a nearly perfect $50 bonnet which makes me very happy I also rectified the issue as to why it flipped up on me > it now has a correctly working safety catch and latch mechanism. Now onto the missing issue After injectors and spark plugs I got it running properly on 5 cylinders and narrowed down the problem cylinder to no1 intake on the passenger side. we did a home made leak down test by putting compressed air down the spark plug hole with the rocker gear removed so both valves were shut. like 100psi hit me in face as it came out the top of the inlet manifold running ( 300zx has a lower and upper intake manifold and at the point they split in half there are a single row of 6 inlet runners which the plenum top then bolts onto so the valve shown appears to have a low spot on the valve seat, I drew 8 dots with a vivid onto the valve seat. Stuck the valve in there and rubbed it around. 7 dots were gone and one dot was faintly showing up. this should explain why air pressure was escaping the combustion chamber. it also explains a lot of the rough running as it would have been getting some chronic reversion of exhaust gasses back into the plenum chamber. Back to the Machice Shop Who did the work, I expect this should be rectified free of charge as the guy seems trust worthy and a general nice fellow. however I am still up for an expensive gasket set.

Hey Sam I would go the link. The one in Rileys car could have been installed better but they are easy to wire in and lots of support for them. I have had a good look at the wiring look and how they are installed and it totally gets my vote. The software is nice and simple to use also Phone up the guys at NZ EFI I found them very good to deal with even if you only ask questions and don't but it from them.

make me so happy to see my old E50 with M50 in there ! As Far as I know that flywheel isn't lightened, it came from silver fox from a 2.3 ages and ages ago so im not sure what that means. When i had it skimmed for the clutch over 3 years ago when i did the manual conversion the engineer commented it was quite a light flywheel. Awwww man I miss that car so much Want to give it back when its done

Good input Heath, There are 3 diffierent ways I can stiffen the front of the car, triangulated strut tower brace ( one that goes back to the firewall ) Also a lower chassis brace which boolts up to the front castor arms and control arm pickup points. and of course damper setting, swaybar selection spring rate ect. Not mega concerned over that as the front is much easier to stiffen than the back really i need a cert sometime in the foreseeable future regardless but I also have future dreams of having a full cage that complies with necessary requirements. end of the day its all a pipe dream but usefull information to know where the regs stand on this one. Seems to be I be best to have a letter from a cert man stating that he belives it not need LVVTA cert and speak with a knowlagable wof man before a welder arcs the steel.

Thats not so much a problem for my Factory 2 Seater Short wheel base 300zx

Hello all I have been reading an interesting topic on the D1NZ forum regarding a "half cage" being wof legal This is the topic here http://forums.d1nz.com/viewtopic.php?t=179...67a41f3dea07985 So far from reading that it seems like a half cage is legal without an LVVTA cert or MSNZ homologation providing it meets the in depth requirements of the WOF manual. I am not suggesting that I will be going to fir one to my vechicle but I would very much like to hear the thoughts of a member on here with access to the current WOF manual I am one of the people round here that say " if you are unsure talk to a LVVTA certifier" but i am interested in the exact rules or requirements of this. Don't flame or get pissy guys I want this to be a good informative discusson as it helps me out for 2 reasons I own a 4wd and have nearly rolled it onc. I also own a 2 door car with a bit of a flexy body that could use the extra stiffness in the rear end subframe and suspension. I do wish to have LVVTA cert for brakes and suspension but building a half cage would be a good project especially if the correct requirements are met and it is fully legal.

HT I have to say those mags of yours looked really good on Atta's v8 they borrowed some garage space at my place for guard massageing It was cool having BOTH chch V8 e30's at my place

Its a pretty close race Sam, I recommend going with the best fitment and offset as both wheels look equally hot. 18's seem a little big on an E30 I do like the CH though I'm thinking about those for my 300zx when i need wheels.

I got it from BNT But don't buy it unless you have an air compressor. About $80-$100 depending on your discount