tibbs.james

at a guess you would need something like motor trans and trans mounts and cross member loom computer drive shaft cross member ? ( somebody correct me here if Im wrong ) engine mounts Exhaust parts to suit new motor LVVTA cert a whole parts car would probably work out well I am by no means knowledgeable about such swaps in a BMW but what Ive listed above has been the case for other engine swaps i have known of

again once you have the thermostat and a hopefully non cracked housing, sometimes they have an arrow to stick it up a certain way, i made the mistake of not paying attention and all my water pumped out after a drive. might be a good time to check the condition of the belts and the water pump too. Oh and in Christchurch go and see Pete From Eurorec, he is a real good guy and can source plenty of new parts. I got my water pump ,thermostat and head gasket set + bolts from him all at good prices

Don't forget There are many engineers who can spin up a flywheel on the lathe from a chunk of steel or alloy. Its not the cheapest option but it can have its advantages ! you can get the teeth pressed on from an auto flex plate and the rest can be done to your specifications . this probally wont help but don't rule it out

If i had the $6k to spend i think i would go for a E30 Face Lift two door 325I motorsport, then proceed to spend the rest (or save up to spend ) money on making it totally mint, I think cars that are origional might become collectors items someday especailly with a number of examples becoming race cars or geting rusty or getting pranged up. however i don't think $6k would go real far for a 325 motorsport, but it would be the next best thing to owning a totally mint E30 M3

Not trying to hijack But why exactly are the kings or the Jamex springs rubbish? I know they are rubbish because everybody says they are but Im keen on hearing actual reasons why Are they too stiff, or not stiff enough ? is the spring rate linear when its meant to be progressive or what? Or are they just harsh for some reason or something like that.

hmm I didn't know 5 year olds were allowed to have cars

With any of the usual insurance companies I could not get insured for my dads 3.0 Subaru, as soon as he got me set up with a broker it wasn't a problem. I'm not even going to bother with companies like AMI or state when it comes time to insure my 300zx. Getting insurance for my 320i was hard enough through AMI with a clean record and no claims! Again being under 25 sucks I would hate to think what an insurance company would do if you had your car certified for particular mods

where can i get the H&R springs from ?

the 14" baskets actually look quite good on your car, on mine they don't perhaps because its not lowered

I think i have got my 2 favorite cars that fall under $20,000 and meet the "old school" criteria , and they are both Rwd 6 cylinders

Thanks for the offer GUS i will have to take your word for it tho as im a Chch feller. Where can i Get these H&R Springs from the 33m drop sounds perfect. What do a set of koni shocks sting $$$ wise ? and on the price note how much are people getting their H&R springs for?

Howdy guys I know what suspension setup i want ,lowered springs which a higher spring rate, and something that can damp them well. Nice and simple because its still to be a road car. from reading on the forum jamex springs seem to work but not as well as other brands. I imagine king springs would be in the same boat. its hard to know when manufactures don't actually list the spring rate on their catalogs. What is the spring rate for a 320i FL ? because whatever it is its not high enough as my car feels quite soft what spring rate are some of the springs you lot have used in your E-30's ? or what brand of springs seemed to work well? i would like about a 30mm drop so to not mess with the rear camber too much i would like to get away with having the springs captive and no having to shorten shocks , ie the issues which have already been discussed in other suspension threads. Repco can get me Munro Reflex Gas shocks, whick sounds pretty good. After going onto their website and having a read it sounds like these would damp a stiffer spring quite well and still ride nicely on the road. What shocks have you had a good experiecne with . This will be going in an E30 Mainly used for Road driving with the idea of going to the odd track day with the local car club.

even with it being on its roof old skool panel beaters have fixed worse on other classic/exotic valuable cars i dont see why it was written off unless the pillars are that bent that the doors wont open or close

Ollie I have a dyno graph for one of these cars doing 452 hp on stock pistons ! Mine is a non T top but that suits me as it has a stiffer chassis. they are very popular in America a lot of modified examples there That car has done 320,000 kms and was still going strong before i pulled it apart

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Hi guys I have owned my E30 for about 6 months now and before i had that i was looking for a project car, and i came across the Z31 300zx that is my "Turbo Rocket" its a 3.0 V6 turbo never ending project MY E30 is my Daily Car As you can see i am in the process of doing a lot including a full engine rebuild as a well as doing new suspension bushings, new shocks new springs all around. Oh forgot the panel paint and new carpet in the interior. And hopefully a mod to help fix the massive rear camber ( semi trailing arm setup ) while i love my E30 this car just makes me smile as soon as i get inside it. and its quite rare in NZ too Most were auto and 2+2 , i got lucky with a manual Turbo 2 seater Most With cams and a turbo upgrade these cars will quite easily do 400hp+ if you have a good fuel/ignition setup

If you don't buy Redline oil (which is very good btw ) another good fully synthetic oil is Ams Oil it comes in a massive variety of weights and types for different applications. If you know what grade to get it should be easy to find the correct oil. And the Ams oil is also fully synthetic. However it may not be any cheaper than the Castrol oil which is reccomended. this probably didn't help but its another option

brand new water pump 2 months ago, i did not have my heater on as i was bleeding it i will give that a go thanks !

well it beats me whats happened to my car, i jumped in started it up and for some reason it was idling real nice ( as it always has ) and the tach was working again and yeah it was just running totally different from last night. perhaps the ECU just had to find its groove after the battery being disconnected for so long. But now i have a new problem, My temp seems to climb slowly and i have my suspicions the water is not getting around to the radiator ie tons of air in it, Its presureing but when i squeeze the pipes there does not seem to be water in there ( the ones going to and from the radiator ) I have never had problems before, when i open the bleed valve on the thermostat housing water comes out as expected, but something still isn't right and im not sure what. I got my thermostat in october last year brand new one , and it tested ok when i checked it tonight, opened up after a few seconds in boiling water. The arrow is facing up and it is in the only way it fits. any idea's

Hi I put the oil drain tube in exactly the same way as it came apart so that is all good and it feels solid inbetween the manifold and the block. I'm positive that can't be leaking. I did disconnect the plug for the tach signal and install it correctly with the wire clip ect. some contact cleaner might be required here.?? " There is also another circular plug under the intake manifold just ahead of the starter that is famous for making a bad connection, water gets into it and corrodes the contacts resulting in all sorts of electrical faults. I normally cut it out when I find problems with it and solder the wires together using heatshrink tube to waterproof the wires." which plug is this? i can't have checked it as i don't know which one you mean Do air flow meters normally give trouble?

1990 E30 320I motronic injection Hi I have just put my E30 320i back togeather after having my cylinder head rebuilt. I put everything back together how it was and reconnected all earths and plugs etc. But it wont idle right and usually dies after a few seconds as well as running rough at low throttle. It never did this before as the day it blew the HG it still started up and ran very well. My Tacho no longer works. The pickup next to the toothed wheel has been adjusted to correct specs with a feeler gauge as per the Haynes manual. The inspection light on the dash is showing up also. ***I figure this can't be spark as when you get the car moving it feels like normal and it runs on 6 cylinders. ***It can't be the Airflow meter as the car would not be running well as once you are above idle (around about 1500 rpm it seems fine) ie it seems to be metering air and doing its job. ***I assume the wire coming from one of the HT leads is the signal for the tach, as this is how my automotive multimeter can measure RPM as well. I also assume the pickup at the toothed wheel is for ignition timing retarding and advancing spark. Any idea's on what the problem could be? i can get access to a reset/diagnostic tool.

HI Please have a really good look at the http://www.lvvta.org.nz website this is the Low Volume Vechicle Technical association which involves all aspects of modified cars in New Zealand it also has a list of Vehicle certifiers or Vehicle inspectors who can advise you on what standards your car will have to comply to for it to be able to be registered in New Zealand. It has all the relevant standards you car has to comply with for modifications in New Zealand ,generally you can have most things legally Certified ie your Coil Over Suspension and so on. Hopefully This helps

so can anybody confirm what a stock standard 320I Auto diff is ? my car is F/L does that make any change to it? My car ( F/L auto )does aobut 3000 rpm @100kmh is that any indication as to what diff i have?

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Apart from the lines needing to be made up. Are the old bushes and old shifter mount included with the gearobox even if they are worn out? Would this would mean the box only needs a shifter to be complete ?