tibbs.james

You could speak to your vechicle certifier about who could lengthen your auto driveshaft and rebalance it ect. might only cost a hundread or two

Aha I was fairly succesfull getting the Gearbox in place and mounted up ect as it was so much easier to get my hands up into the guts of it to put in the bolts for the top of the gearbox and that. However when i went to put my front driveshaft piece in i noticed that it did not align to the bolt holes, So this is going to go to my engineering dude so he can press out the bearing hanger and replace it with the one from my auto driveshaft. It was about 5mm out on each side easy enough to change but a pain to have to be waiting on more parts. Starter motor will go to auto electrician tomorow to be rebuilt too!.

Well The autobox from my 320i is now sitting on the floor. but man alive what a pain to get it out. after unbolting crossmember & driveshaft and lowering it down I had to connect all my socket extensions and undo the stupid torx head bolts from right back by the output shaft and the socket constantly fell off while i would scuff my knuckeles to put it back on. Then one coolant pipe was in front of one of the bolts i needed to get undone. And to get that big bolt undone i had to trim down a spanner to get it to fit in the small gap. And after taking off the swaybar to get the cover off the bottom of the engine to undo the torque converter bolts i was just feeling dandy. If i ever do this again the engine will come out. But if im thinking correctly getting the manual gearbox in will be a lot easier due to it being a lot shorter than the auto. Does anybody have anu tips for getting the manual on there easily and with less hassle? I have read the various posts about fitting a getrag 260 but i was just hoping to make sure nobody had some real good tricks for making things easy. otherwise everything has come out and is undamged in any way so at least ive got that going for me Rant over !

Hells Bells Gus You have convinced me to go and get some 15" weaves them powdercaot them ! I would ask to buy yours but you would only say they come with a Free E30 ! for Lots of $$$ Looking great though somebody will be investing in a car with lots of time and effort that has gone into it.

There is no Reason you can't get a Romulator and Run lsome sort of ive Editing software to tune the stock ECU. http://www.tuckerautopartsonline.com/tuning/romulator.htm This would only hardly scratch the surface. But i know of a number of Early Rom based ECU that can be sucessfully emulated and tuned with this But you would need to be dedicated to learn it, and a wideband would almost be a must.

New hubs machined up ? or a 5 stud hub from a bmw with similar design that can be machined down to suit E30 fitment ? use some 5 series rotors and calipers with the nice adaptor plate and it would be a tidy 5 lug swap. A frind and I did this recently with a R30 skyline with some Z31 rear 5 lugs into the R30 4 Lug control arm. something to think about anyway.

I am wanting to sell my FL autobox from my 320i Or I would like to buy an E30 with a stuffed auto that i can get going again for my Girlfriend to use. my Sale add http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry137037 Cheers James

Bump Auto is coming out this weekend incase somebody needs one. Not looking for much would consider swapping for a good diff. if anybody in chch would like to test drive please phone me on 03 311 8313 or 027 696 3923. would like to see it go to a good home or at least get a nice tidy old car going again. even if i have to buy it myself. cheers James

I think whatever you look at be it Windows/Mac/Some variant of GNU linux Don't let some git talk you into a whole bunch of bullshit that you don't need. and again whichever variant of hardware you choose good quality well priced gear will always treat you well. just my 2c same as buying anything really i have not used mac but after getting used to ubuntu i would not hesitate to try it

I was always expecting to need really decent shocks. But i was quite happy with how the car drives in that it seems just like any other car i have driven but with less body roll. The shocks in there seem fairly new so perhaps thats why they work well for the moment. but if there are any signs of something not working it will be replaced. I am not a boy racer nor after that boy racer look. In no way at all is the car unsafe like other cars you see driving along which you can see "bounce along the road". As you say really good shocks will make a good improvement but for now the current shocks seem fine and while they are not very old they should last fairly well. Why would you remove the diff when you could unbolt the axles at the diff, undo that lower shock bolt and proceed to pull the spring out anyway ? I don't see why the diff needs to be removed.

Standard Springs Not looking for much seems like i don't really need them laying around ? Make an offer Will post at buyers cost.

Well got my lowering done 35mm drop on Togates old Eibach Springs Drives way mint now ! can't see a huge diffierence but it is a lot more even and less jacked up .

Well crowbar method working really well, i was susprised how easy it was to put the new ones in ! At the port hills the car is so much more flat around the corners, the only time the shocks struggled was when i hit a big bump really fast it didn't feel as tho it damped it very well but that was at about 90km/h around a corner so i can't compain.

ok Will let you guys know how it goes, cheers

I had the lower shock bolt undone. and it looked as if the control arm would not go much lower ? So you literally just jam a crowbar in there and lever them out? What about putting the new ones in just shove em in ?

Hey guys Just put my lowered Eibach 35mm drop springs in the frony of my E30. It was quite straight foward as i have changed many struts and shocks before. But i went to put my spring compressors on my rear springs and wound them all the way in and i could not get it far enough to pull the spring out ? are there any tricks to fitting the rear springs ? On my 300zx (semi trailing arm suspension ) i had to unbolt the trailing arm to remove the spring. Is this the case with my E30 ? or do you know an easier way? if the trailing arm has to come out i will just wait untill i get a new diff and CV boots and do the whole lot at once. Oh and BTW anybody who has said that Eibach Springs are way to stiff , well i tend to disagree. Taking the car for a quick drive (only fronts in ) it was a little bit firmer overall and over bumps was still nice and soft and handled bumps really smoothly and all. Around corners is where it felt more responsive and you can feel the progessive spring work to keep the car even around the corner. Front shocks are Near new factory replacements and the car is not harsh bouncy or uncomfotable at all. However i can see i would get more improvement with better shocks and perhaps some new sway bar urethane bushings. I believe the key to this was good condition shocks/struts not 70% worn ones. Anyway if anybody can help it would be good as i would love to fit my rear springs tomorow !!!! Thanks guys

Well Reason i ask is My M20 cylinder head ,water pump cam belt ect has alreadby been rebuilt/replaced. I was thinking if there was a not so aggressive grind that gave a general imrprovement without massive lift or anything it might be a good idea. especially if the grind was only $150 or so. If i buy a 2.5 i will end up rebuilding the whole thing which means buying all the same stuff all over again for a diffierent engine. When kelfords did that cam for the 4k engine it was $400 for the grind isself, lifters to be surfaced and included valve springs & shims. you might say yes a B25 might be $400 or $500 but then you don't really know what you are getting. and i would still need a FL motorinic 2.5 ECU . It was just a thought now i have brought togates eibach springs i better buy some decent dampers now !

before i pick up the phone are 318 shocks the same as 320 shocks ?

Hello Dudes First question is about having a bmw camshaft ground. i know with most jap cams they can quite sucessfully regind and harden the surface with good result and that providing you use surfaced lifters it will work very well. that was the case with an old toyota 4k engine i built for a mate anyway (high compression bigger valves hot cam spings and shims with big webber carb ) since bmw have diffierent ways of doing things can this be done without excessive camshaft wear? I am only thinking about a mild gind to improve things. a bit more go and a retune with an airflow meter correcter box would be great. Since a decent panel filter is about as good a pod filter there can't be reasonable gains to be made here. And my head casting was very smooth in all the ports so it made no sense to do any work there. I wouldn't be looking at running stiffer springs as increase in duration and lift would ideally not be enough to need it. not to hammer on too long but what is the standard duration and lift for a FL m20b20 cam? any help appreciated James

Hells bells what would i do without your info david ? Cheers for that

Rebuild the rear calipers again or borrow some diffierent ones. Thats a quick answer to if its the calipers or something else. Plenty of E30 rear calipers around to buy/borrow.

Hi dudes I have my Clutch kit which is good because when i get better i can do my 260 swap in my E30. But unlike any other clutch kit i have brought it does not have a pilot bearing. (my dealer tells me only the jap kits seem to include the bearings ) So if anybody has an OD & ID for the pilot bearing and a part number that would be great. For M20B20 and Getrag 260 as you would imagine. And as a side interest what is the weight of a factory 325 E30 Flywheel . My machineing man said it was very light for a flywheel of that size and it has not beel lightened. Any help Appreciated Cheers James

Well ive been a bimmersport member for a little while so i thought i would post a pic of my 4 door FL in all its Jacked up massive ride height glory Needs lowering but Manual Swap takes priority and then im onto some work on the Z31 Nissan

Thanks for the help guys.

ok well im going to get under there and check ive decided because if its a 3.9 or 4.1 i will buy it. now the name plate with the numbers on it. Does it plainly tell me the ratio or do i need to know the last 3 numbers to match up to the list or something how does that work?