charles28

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I'll give that a go, that vac hose is a bit dodgy, its got a T-Join in it with a screw adjuster. Perhaps I should replace that hose with a normal one 1st. My ECU has a separate black box attached to it also, with about 5 wires going to it and the ECU itself has a sticker about Homologation from dated 1999. The car came with cruise control, so perhaps that black box is to do with that, the wires from it don't go to the ECU.

Yeah, they claim to have perfect maps, but they will be for the US version of my car with only 8:8-1 Compression etc. SA built one like mine is 9.4-1, factors like that could throw it off for sure, also my car doesn't have a Cat or O2 sensor and I suspect the USA cars all do. I will replace my intake boot and vac hoses anyway, as the intake boot has signs of cracking around the pieces that connect to ICV etc and get it back on the Dyno

Its made the drive ability worse, which means I have a problem somewhere, I need to check the voltage going to the MAF etc and see that all is well. According to Miller if the TPS has an issue it can cause running problems once using the MAF, so thats another thing to test out. I can't discount Vacuum leaks too. The car almost wants to bunny hop if you idle along too slow in 1st or Second gear.

Miller Maf conversion complete, well sort of. Its working, but cruising around I can detect a slight miss and its hesitant down low. Currently I only have a pod filter on the MAF, so I need to sort something out about cold air. But I did a WOT run to demonstrate the Intake sound, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUMviHzE2lU...eature=youtu.be

I quite like this video, shows the potential of a fairly standard E30 at the Ring. (Well, original engine).

I removed most of the bracket, that holds the exhaust to the gearbox and went for a good drive, within 10 mins I has the usual Vibration and drone. However I discovered I can make it go away for a few minutes at a time if I drive the car hard for a few seconds.. ie, 6000rpm. I Can then happily cruise at 1500rpm without the vibration, of course, a few minutes later its back. I did the same thing 3 times with the same result. (Once while the car wasn't moving) and each time the result was the same, I could get a few minutes of peace without the annoying vibration.

Have used a bracket from a 1987 Tech 1 Manual (that all my parts came from) it bolted on fine (The auto one didn't), but I better check that the exhaust isn't contacting the chassis somewhere, but would have thought if this was the case that it would happen all the time and not after driving for some time. I will detach that bracket again, as I did drive the car for a week without one and during that time I didn't recall having a vibration issue Cheers

What would happen if the manual conversion was completed without a pilot bearing being installed into the crank ?(Automatic's don't come with it apparently). I just checked the paperwork, there was a Spigot Bearing listed, for about $7, I assume there is only 1x Spigot bearing?

Turns out its not the fan causing the vibration. I'm starting to think its the exhaust, thinking back, its only started since I installed the support bracket from gearbox to exhaust, i assume the exhaust on an auto is differn't to a manual also, so perhaps i'm on the right track (my car was a factory auto, but converted to manual).

As it turns out, my Viscous fan is stuffed, as in after driving for 30mins in traffic I could stop it spinning by using a rolled up piece of paper. I still have the vibration, but i'm convinced its the fan, so I will take it out. Is it safe to rely on the Fan on the front of the radiator that cools the A/C condenser? ( My AC belt is removed, but with A/C turned on this fan is running). Cheers

Thats thanks to Youtube advising me to apply those settings. I was using my HTC One V

Thanks. I was surprised that doing the valve adjustment was so straight forward, a fairly basic engine for sure.

Replaced Distributor and Rotor a couple of days back. The old parts had seen better days for sure. The metal contacts, well they didn't look that good at all. Uploaded with ImageShack.us I have spent the weekend messing around with the valve adjustment, yesterday I only succeeded in making it worse, however I re-did it today and took my time and made sure all were adjusted correctly. As you can see the inside of my engine is .. dirty. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Not sure what to do about that, however it is running well now. It sounds a lot better then a week ago, ie http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0650jtAQzTU

Righto, attempt 2 at valve adjustment, I took my time this time and double checked each valve. This is the result, Its a lot better then it was and I tightened up the fan a bit, tighter then it was at least. I took it for a 20min drive before the Vid and didn't detect any vibration, engine is running smoother also.

I attempted valve adjustment today, but it didn't seem to make it any better. I thought I would remove the viscous fan to see if that was somehow causing the vibration. To my suprise, it wasn't on tight, I could easily undo the bolt without any effort. I thought i'd try and tighten it up and see what happened, but naturally I can't as the it just causes the belts etc to turn. how do I stop this occuring so I can tighten it properly? cheers. mmmm looks like I need to take the Dizzy back off to make room to jam the pulley from moving.

yeah I need to sort out the valve adjustment. I should buy a feeler gauge, job for tomorrow.

Video made of how the car sounds once this problem occurs after 20mins of driving. Doesn't sound that good really .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0650jtAQzTU...eature=youtu.be

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....rt=#entry264093 reading this, it sounds like this guy had the same issue, but 3 years back..

http://www.e30.de/fotost/f01014/f01014e.htm I found this interesting reading also

I'm now convinced the vibration is from within the engine itself. Perhaps a Crankshaft issue. Days before this issue I had put Valvoline Synpower Engine Oil in, which is 5w40 and fully Synthetic, not sure that this could cause this problem however. I will drain it and re-fill with normal 10w40, but I can't see it changing things.

How much do you think it could cost to send this to CHCH? Cheers Charles

Replaced engine mounts and gearbox mounts. Whilst this helped the car it hasn't solved my issue. As usual, after a good 20min + run, the car makes a bit of a droning sound in the lower revs and has a vibration that can be felt through the entire car, including the pedals, steering wheel, touching the bonnet and roof etc.

Today I ordered B12 Pro-Kit Suspension (Joint effort between Eibach and Bilstein) I went with this as I wanted the car to retain a level of Comfort while at the same time improve the handling. They claim its tested at Nurburgring and fine tuned etc. http://www.performance2.info/b12-pro-kit-en I heard back from Miller about my MAF conversion, it turns up the hold up is due to the adapter plate not being in stock (that attaches the MAF to the factory airbox) so I told them to delete it and refund me for that and just send the MAF and Chip.

Box of Parts arrived on Friday that I'd ordered about a week before. The main thing of interest for me, the new Engine and Gearbox Mounts. Also pictured is a new bonnet strut, it was only about $5, so I thought, why not, mines stuffed. Not sure if you can see on this Pic, but in real life the engine mount looks squashed. New Dizzy Cap and Rotor As you can see, the engine needs a bit of a clean, oneday hehe. Hopefully after the engine mounts are installed in the next couple of days I rid the car of an annoying vibration issue which happens when driving or when sitting idle at the traffic lights with the car in Neutral, ie not drive train related. I suspect it will help as if you get someone to rock the engine while its running the vibration you feel in the car changes. I also have a new waterpump, cambelt, tensioner, however I forgot to order some new oil seals that I will change while doing this job, but I think i'll just get those locally.