charles28

Mmmm I think I have an idea on what the issue is.. Ryco Oil Filter, thinking back, the issue started after an Oil change, I used a Ryco Filter, didn't think anything of it, was all I could get on the weekend. But then I read http://forums.eurocca.net/showthread.php/2...ryco-oil-filter! I've been told Fram filters are crap, but it might be all I can get hold of tomorrow, anyone know? Cheers

I saw this BMW Isetta today at Hokitika (West Coast of the South Island). We did a day Trip to the coast in the E30, I drove by this car and just had to stop and take a Pic. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Make: BMW Model: 325i Manual Year: 1989 Chassis: E30 Just some odd questions for you guys. What is this thing for? its labelled CARB for one nipple and TO TANK for the other, but why would an E30 have this? it appears to be a factory fitted item, but its just taking up space? Uploaded with ImageShack.us This almost clear tube was attached to it, with a torn vacuum hose attached, it seems to go under the brake booster somewhere, once again i'm not sure what this is, or what I should do with it, I could reach down and feel where it went, but can't see anything. Uploaded with ImageShack.us This connector isn't attached to anything, another connector attached to the same loom goes to the TPS while another goes to the IAV. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

At least its a decent quality turbo, rather then some nasty chinese $400 thing. I would have thought 0.63 AR was plenty big enough for an M20 too. What are you going to use to tune it?

Converted to manual around 5 months ago. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

That was brand new, its not that kind of noise though. Today I tried to climb under the car and investigate. Uploaded with ImageShack.us I'm wondering if that Metal bracket by the exhaust is an issue, its quite bendable with my hand. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us I assume that bracket is some kind of heat shield? Cheers Charles

Took the car on a bit of a road trip today, destination was Geraldine, Rangitata (Photo location) Mayfield, then back home. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So this is the Dyno sheet with the Miller Maf etc. Uploaded with ImageShack.us As you can see its a bit lean down low and too rich at the top end, it seems to be making peak power around 1000rpm lower then stock. And here's the original Dyno run, totally stock (Not the same Dyno) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Got around to replacing the spark plugs today, I had ordered some Bosch ones from Pelican Parts, pre gapped to 0.8mm. I was shocked to find the old plugs were gapped at what looked like 2x that. (these were new 2 days after I got the car, was lazy at the time and got a mechanic to give it a service + new Plugs) as the oil etc was black as when I got the car and I had no time to sort it out straight away. The cars only done about 7000ks on those plugs, so I suspect they were not gapped correctly to begin with. The car seemed to run nicer straight away, even the valve train noise seemed better. I also discovered that the part of the throttle body that the brake servo attaches to was sticking out (that alloy piece that pulls out from the throttle body, opposite side is the Idle Control Valve, so I pushed that back in and will keep an eye on it. I took it for a good drive, runs much better now, decided to chuck in some Injector cleaner too. The car has been on another Dyno and the tune setup with the Miller isn't too bad, close to 14:7 on the part throttle map, the wot map was a bit lean in places, but not dangerously so, it made about 10wkw less on this dyno, however you can't always compare dynos. Despite the fact that the cars running really nice, it still has a weird vibration issue that occurs, (on my other post in Maintenance).

I still haven't been able to resolve this issue and its doing my head in. However I'm wondering if the issue could be anything to do with me using pre-facelift parts for my manual conversion, ie, my cars a facelift 1989, the parts are from a nznew 1987 Motorsport 325i. The gearbox has some connectors on it not used on my car, could I have a problem with the flywheel? I've had the exhaust checked out and added a resonator, however this hasn't changed anything. This noise is best described as a Howling sound, that causes a vibration to be felt through the pedals. (this is when the car is either stationary or moving) and only happens around 1500-2000rpm approx, this sometimes happens straight away, or after driving for a little while. If I stab the throttle to redline the issue is cured for about 3-5mins at a time.

Its not ready for the retirement home yet, why not use the car at least 2 days a week, to keep it happy and in good running spirits? Cars don't take well to sitting around, but as Brent suggested, new battery, check for battery drain etc.

Mmm, I'd buy it if I wasn't building a house.. + then getting a Mortgage. Also once I move I'll be driving 70km's a day, so the fuel economy of something like this might not be ideal, of course the E30 325i isn't ideal either lol

Does anyone know the correct code for a K&N Panel filter for this model? Its longer then the normal E30 Air Filter which has a part number of 33-2059 Perhaps its this? http://nzairfilter.co.nz/panel-filter/bmw/33-2005.html

I see the article made a deal about having Drilled Boot Hinges? Mines got those too, surely its just normal? Uploaded with ImageShack.us

That sure is a Tidy E34, got it back on the road yet? I have parts sitting around for my E30 (Looked like a similar order from Pelican Parts).

Many are rough around the edges. Ie http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-544190326.htm It looks like it could be a good car with a lot of work, but would need some panel + paint, seats etc. But it has the typical Pod filter and crappy looking gear knob.

190e 2.6 might be the way to go, they have a 2.6L inline 6 and make about 160hp. The 2.3 is ok, but only 95kw ish and has a stupid auto tranny that by default starts you off in second gear, however you can trick it by putting into 2nd then back to D, then it takes off in 1st.

Still got your 190e? Mines still going, however it needed a new EHA valve recently, which was $400 from Startech. Have run up about 10,000k's this year though, as I keep using this car for road trips etc.

Those Cheap BBS Reps on trademe, does anyone have a pic of them on an E30? Cheers Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Do those Racing Dynamics Wheels come with centre caps or anything? Cheers

Another Job I need to do, tidy up the leather seats. This website seems to sell a nice range of products for the task at hand. ( I read about this on a Post in General) Leather Help | DIY Leather Care, Repair And Restoration So I should be able to repair this and re colour the damaged area. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I miss my E39, yours looks awesome

Hopefully this cures the play in the steering. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I think i'll be at the 10k mark by the time i'm finished. But it'll be a fun car, where as if you went at spent 10k on a car at a yard it would be a boring one most likely.

Got the WAR chip today, put on a map that a bimmersport member kindly gave me to try, the car runs well with this map, he tweaked it a bit on the dyno and his car is pretty much stock, so it should be a close match. As far as I can tell the only real adjustment needed is the idle, its around 1000rpm, which is a little on the high side. With the new suspension and new found throttle response the car is becoming more fun to drive, however the steering seems somewhat vague/sloppy, so I need to look into this, one of the control arm bushes looks like its in backwards too. Hopefully with a good wheel alignment the steering feel will improve, probably needs some castor.