rogan

I'll put it as nicely as I can and I don't generally brandbash (except Xplode and JL of course); Boss is flea-market rubbish - their build quality is appalling and they're hugely noisy. It's the type of brand where you'd want to check the fuses are even connected.

pwned

Yikes, that's hideous.

No overheating issues, but don't have the subs in yet. Time will tell.

How come you didn't stick the CD stacker behind the factory panel? Who needs a spare? Tyreweld ftw. Must get a better photo now the wiring is done. pjay, have 12d4, and BennyZ on bimmerforums is running 800 into his but don't know how his gains are set. Should be good for 600rms on music.

$160 for 10", $180 for 12". Don't have any 12d2 but have all the others.

SS Exact is a good sub. Had a 10 in the wife's e30 and it went very well. IDQv2 are being sold out under $200, and the IDQv3 is around the same price as the Amboss. Can lend you a demo one if you want to have a listen: rxi-rolla has it at the mo but will be getting it back from him shortly.

425a. That's only there to protect the main power wire: theoretically the amps could draw more than that but my ear drums will blow before the fuse. Don't think the 1000d has an internal fuse so you should add an external one.

The e30 is one of the most overrated cars in history. Who makes a car where the pedals, seat and steering wheel don't line up and the gap between the brake and kick panel isn't big enough for a decent width foot. My wife had an e30 and now an e46. They're both miserable although the e46 is definitely nicer. If you're vertically challenged they're probably nice to drive but if you're taller than average then forget it. I have an e39 540, it's a nice cruiser but as said it's a sporty boat. Interior and boot space is woeful considering the exterior dimensions. Under every panel there's some kind of electical gadgetry. Get the cooling system checked to avoid any future problems. The 540 e39 is a very nice car, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Wiring can be costly. You'll also need to factor in your distribution and fusing. Fusing is generally quite cheap for those inline ones but if you need a big fuse then you pay. I just paid nearly $20 for a single fuse.

Yes you were. If you're in Ak, I use Hope Hickman who are on Union St near the Northern mway on ramp. Try welding cable instead

Yokohama C.drive http://www.yokohama.co.nz/c_drive.html Did a fair whack of research before buying mine. Everyone gave me different recommendations so it's a bit of a lottery. Had e39 shimmy before I stuck these on - no longer an issue. Cost $254 each fitted & balanced. Reasonably well written review: http://www.onemotoring.com.sg/publish/onem...s/yokohama.html When I was putting new rubber on my 4x4 I got quotes ranging from $330 to $570 per tyre (same brand, same model, same size) so make sure you ring around the tyre shops.

Have you seen this one. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-192923326.htm Looks like better NZ history. It's had a coolant issue but if Team McM fixed it then it's probably not going to be anything to worry about. Any jap import you buy is a risky odometer

Be very careful with the pins at the back of that headie. Apparently they have a tendency to bend.

This is the tread to watch http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1138037

Huge thanks Jochen

Guy in the US, with a 99 e39 540I/6 http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1137154 Any idea?

Ha, yeah I think I'm gonna need to be a titch conservative with the gains or there could be a project phoenix in my front doors.

Think I've seen it, that's where they replace some of the components. There's a guy in Italy who's gone way overboard doing a similar thing. Totally out of my league. I could get away with a mono amp and 1 sub, a 2channel for the mids and a 4 channel for horns and rears but hey what the hell.I would never have considered 6x9s before speaking to Eric Stevens (Image Dynamics designer/owner). He is making an 8" in the same range for the people who won't believe that oval can sound good but reckons the 6x9 is better than the 8 on most if not all levels. It does help being the NZ distributor. Update, still waiting for the amp rack to be welded up - they should be ready this week but then there's trial fitting before powdercoating. Have got just about everything ready but welders are holding me up. Christmas finish on the amps not looking likely now

Another option is the Kinetic batteries that Dave in Wellington sells. [email protected] I'm running a 1000d, a 150x2 and a 40x4 off a 140a alternator and big battery (just a din 92 or din95 can't remember which) and have no problems. Not expecting too many problems with the near-future amplifier upgrade either. Your battery should sit around 11-12v with car and stereo off, and at 14.xx with engine running and stereo off. Might pay to have your alternator looked at just to see what it's doing.

What types of amps (rms rating etc). Are we talking Explode/Reactor etc amps or real ones. Is you battery holding charge? 9.6v seems really low. E30's have a pretty pathetic battery tray, suggest you either get something like an orbital blue top, or go the second battry route but you need to factor in the extra cost of wiring and the VSR (voltage sensing relay) you'll need to handle the charging system.

What do you mean "big audio gear"? And is that 9.6v measured across the battery or at the amps?

Only 9 months since the last update. Trying to get the amps and subs done before Chrimbo. Rapid Radio have the spare door cards and I don't think there's been much / any progress. Few teaser pics

You blow the fuseable links on Pioneer units if you disconnect the amplifier earth before unhooking RCAs. If the amplifier has no earth then it looks for another earth which just happens to be through the RCAs to the headunit. It doesn't matter if you've turned your stereo off first, there can be some charge left in the amps. To avoid blowing them, whenever you're going to do some work on the stereo or disconnect the battery, then turn the stereo off and disconnect the RCAs before doing anything else. IMO 95% of alternator whine problems are caused by poor grounding. Your amp should be earthed through a decent thickness cable to a place on the car which is sanded back. Then cover the area in petroleum jelly (vaseline) to prevent rust

x2. They're called the fuseable links. If you get it serviced the Pioneer techie replace them with a piece of wire instead of the stupid fuse. A simple test is to earth the outside sheath of one of your RCAs at the head unit. If the whinning goes away this is the problem. If not then look at how you've grounded the amps, and what the battery -ve to chassis connections are like. I've had alternator whine for the last 6 months at least. Worst sound ever,made even worse by highly efficient speakers