rogan

Bump Need to clear the gear out to afford a people mover ! Gear is up on trademe but is cheaper through nzicemag or by pm here. Trademe link

I'll fick you a PM Spoke to the yesterday. They have some options but I'm not exactly sure what my mate is looking for so keeping options open.Also spoke to Ray at Hellbm

Friend has bought a 318 e46 touring and has the horrible 15" factory alloys on them. He wants something that retains the factory look but a bit bigger and smarter. Looking for 17" alloys. With or without tyres.

The 6x9 are advertised as 700watt but the small print says 60rms. So guessing 500watt = 40rms. On topic, the CTX5 I had for sale went out the door today. I don't have anything left that's suitable for rear E30.

I wasn't taking the piss. Simply saying that I could do with spending alot less on speakers.

I've got 500w on tap if you want to test their rating! I only wish I could listen to $50 speakers and enjoy them. I'd be so much less in debt.

I've got some brand new Image Dynamics CTX5 for $90+ shipping (or pick up from the Nth Shore). They're 75rms and sound pretty damn good. I don't like the grills though, would be better to try and retain the factory grill for that clean look. I run a pair as rears in my e39

Mel & Kim / Respectable . I feel a flashback coming on

To double check your install, go to the bavariansoundworks website, plug in you car details and search for subwoofer or speaker upgrades. Then go to the "Install info" tab there's step by step instructions including which wires to tap into.

Ditch those blue connectors. They often fail. Good luck doing anything to the front. BMW has made it particularly difficult to improve

If there's no warranty, then undo the plate on the base of the amp giving you access to the guts of the amp. Alot of the RCA connectors are hollow all the way through so you may be able to push them out from the inside. Another option could be hot glue which should come off your rca terminals once set and hopefully would have enough grip to pull the pins out. I've never tried that so that's at your own risk.

Yep, in both dual 4 or dual 2 ohm voice coils. Also have ID10 for $130

Sale now on. 14 subs, some horns and speakers have sold.

Only have one 2 channel which isn't in the sale because I'm keeping it for myself. Would be over $600. There's been some DLS amps on sale on trademe recently. They're very good for the coin they're asking.

Thanks Charles28. Yep, it's a brand most people in NZ won't have heard of. Quite common in Australia and one of the most recommended subwoofer brands on bimmerforums. The IDQ copares with the better offerings from Focal, DLS and Rainbow. The IDmax is one of the mythical SQL subs. If anyone's interested, here's some independent reviews from talkaudio which is Uk's main car audio site: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=54740

Am getting out of the importing business so am having a sale on car audio. Mostly subwoofers but there's a few components and coaxials in there. Pricing remains until stock is sold. This isn't your standard run of the mill garbage that's flogged off on trademe; in my opinion Image Dynamics makes some of the best car subwoofers in the world. Sale starts monday 5pm on nzicemag.co.nz http://forums.nzicemag.co.nz/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24522 Will need to log into the site to view thread. Anyone thinking of buying a sub in the next couple of months should have a look at the sale. Sample prices IDMax 12 $375. RRP is $999 and these are one hell of a good sub. Will handle 1000rms and go in 1.5ft3 sealed, 2.25ft3 ported or infinite baffle. Probably one of the best all rounder subs availble in NZ. Great sound quality and can lay down a base line that can be heard in Siberia. IDQv3 12 $250. RRP $629. Sound quality focused subwoofer. Latest model of the IDQ which is well known in American car audio quality competition. Will take about 800rms. IMO there's nothing that can match it at RRP for quality and output, let alone for $250. Some IDQv2 models also available at $100 and below. ID12 $150. RRP $399. The entry level ID sub. Same sound quality as the IDMax but without the power handling. Rated at about 400rms but expect it to be able to handle 6-700rms. Image Dynamics website: http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/index.php Link to subwoofer spec sheets http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/pdf/iD%20P...t%20Spec's/ Anyone who is interested (or even bemused) feel free to fire away with questions. I'll answer them as best I can. Would make an awesome Christmas present for the wife !!!!

x2 If they spring you in a wof then you're up for $400+ for a certification.

I dug the manuals out of the sony site http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/select-sy...amp;PRODTYPE=10

Your headunit has rca input on the rear but I can't figure out if you can use them as an aux in or whether you need the xA-C30 as well. If you can just use the rca inputs then all you'll need is a 3.5mm jack to male rcas,say about 1 metre long and feed that through to your glove box or wherever you want to put the ipod. These take a while to load up: install manual owners manual

Fair enough. I struggle to find space for my gate remote (must hardwire it one of these days), so can imagine the space saving from being fully integrated.

I was in at Eds Autos (3B, 155 Stoddard Rd, Mt Roskill) today and priced the loom. Can't remember exact amount but $30 give or take a bit. That's the square plug with round connectors. Someone's fleecing you at $299 !!! Eds are a Parrot dealer so might pay to give them a ring and price it through them.

I think the HK amp is set up for the HK speakers so not much point in buying an aftermarket amp if you're going to put in the HK fronts. Either put in HK speakers and HK amp, or aftermarket speakers and aftermarket amp.

I have to ask but wouldn't something like a Parrot MKi9100 be a better solution. RRP $499, pretty much plug and play into factory loom. Will give you more functionality and probably better sounding connection.

This should help a fair bit: http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...9_-_Non-DSP.pdf

If the speakers are still running through the separate fader then you could have the headunit seeing 2 ohm speakers which it won't like. If that's the case the headunit will play with moderate sounds level and then shut off as you increase the power (at least that's what's happened when I've run amps below their stable resistance - presume same would happen to the headunit). Swapping to another headunit won't fix the problem. Bypass the fader and then see what happens