rogan

They're only rears so any set of half decent 6.5 coaxials will suit, only thing would be to check magnet diameter just in case the mounts are a tight fit. You sorted for the rest of the gear (amp, subs etc)?

if you need used parts then try ray at hell bmw. highly recommended http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=10946

Whoops, started a cap debate, apologies to the OP. Firstly, I am no electronics expert so don't take what I say as gospel; but I do think I'm right based on years of experience amd learning. I referred to crappy amps, probably should rephrase that as budget amps. A way of achieving cost reduction in manufacture is to minimise the power supply section of the amplifier, and this can be done by reducing the onboard capacitance. A quick look into a high end amplifier (Alpine MRV-F900) shows the caps. 4 x 10,000uF or in easy terms 0.04 Farads; this is for an amp that does about 800rms with the gas pedal all the way down. If this amp needed any more capacitance then you can bet Alpine would make a capacitor and would be able to sell it for moonbeams. The people who buy this amp brand new wouldn't blink at $500 extra for a cap to match. But Alpine don't, and they don't have a cap in their product range whatsoever. Neither do Pioneer or other brand heavyweights. Most capacitor brands are no namers (with exception of Soundstream and McIntosh - although pretty sure MacIntosh don't do a cap any more). So if you've got a budget amp, there may be deficiencies in the power supply and a 1F cap should band-aid this so you don't notice. I reckon you could head down to Jaycar, pick up a 10,000uF or more capacitor and achieve the same result for less than $10 but I haven't done that so won't guarantee it'll work. Probably worth a $10 punt though. have a look at Focal amps, they've just released a capacitor of sorts: looks to me like they've taken the power supply section outboard, packaged it up nicely and are trying to make a tidy profit on it. 13200uF ( = 0.0132 Farads) according to the specs. So that'sunder $10 worth of electronic components packaged into a US$149 product. To me this is marketing at its best. Cheaper for the consumer just to buy an amp with this on-board, but it does look pretty. One thing to consider is when then engine is running, the battery is not a power source; it's a power drain (or reserve). It only comes into play once the power generated by the alternator is being fully used at which stage the system voltage drops from the 14.4v generated by the alternator to the 12.6v held in the battery. So is dimming headlights from the 14.4 to 12.6v drop, or from the battery not being able to supply sufficient power and dropping below 12.6v? I'm thinking it's from the 14.4 to 12.6v drop. There was a myth that you needed a 1F cap for every 500rms of amp power. The JL audio website used to have this as a guideline but it was removed ages back. I've spoken to one guy who have designed car amps and he reckoned that as long as there was a robust power supply section in the amp, no external capacitance is needed. The only amp I know that has massive capacitance is the Rockford Fosgate mega watt beast (don't know model number off hand but it does about 15,000rms. The capacitance used there (an entire amplifier board) is for a different purpose; the amplifier runs on a 16v (or is it 18v) basis so the amp transforms the alternator 14.4v to a higher voltage and the caps are used to store this higher voltage. Note- this isn't a technically perfect description of how it works, but an attempt to put it into layman speak for all of us to be able to understand. Kerry, your problem sounds like an issue in wiring. Amps will shut down (generally) if they go into a protection mode or there is insufficent power supply. Since installing a cap fixes the problem then lets rule out protection for anything but power supply. What I'm guessing is happening is there is an issue in your amplifier earth or power wiring that is hindering supply. A cap gets around this because it supplies a power reseve and a quasi-earthing. Check your power and earth wiring, making sure your amp to chassis connections are strong and your battery -ve to chassis connection is also good. Earth wire needs to go to bare metal chassis, then cover with something like vaseline to prevent corrrosion. If you've got a poor connection somewhere then you'll reduce the power available to the amp and you'll get it shutting down in the manner you've descibed. And finally to get the thread back on topic, some boot pics ( 140a factory alternator and no cap ). Power supply would have been an issue if I'd run this anywhere over about 50% full power; I would have upgraded to a h/o alternator to get around this but the factory alternator was sufficient for my listening needs. There's this myth that your subs will hit harder with external capacitance. To dispel theis, take a look at SPL competitiors. Next to none use caps, and considering every 0.1db is vital to success, surely they'd be in there if they made any difference to the amount of 'hit'.

Ditch the cap then. It's only of use when you have a crappy amp

Couldn't find it on your site. What's the pricing on these Dynavins

yep, components up front, coaxials in the back.

They weren't exactly your standard mass market 6x9. They were specific midbass drivers. There is a myth that the 6x9 shape is not suited to quality - I used to believe in that until I spoke to a speaker designer. The 8" version of my 6x9 was never put to market because it was inferior to the 6x9 in all respects.

lol, a bit of an irony I admit. I try to keep things stealth, and this isn't hard with rear fill; with the front stage function goes above form. I always intended to do a v2, recessiing them a bit further into the doors and playing with the angling but life got in the way, and those front pods were never going to be anything but monstrous considering the baffle needs of the midbasses.

They are pods specifically build for the e39 front door cards. No way you could adapt them for the rear. $150 including the door cards (door cards are black leather on black plastic and have memory driver seat buttons)

Personally I don't like seeing speakers on the parcel shelf and having the 5.25 in the factory pods hidden behind the factory grills worked for me. I was just running rears for quite a while and they sounded pretty decent on their own. Agree that 6x9 coaxials wouldn't work that well in the front doors. I had mine bandpassed 63-1000Hz. Sold the e39 ages back but still have the door cards with custom 6x9 pods if anyone was interested in buying them

What about 6x9 in the front doors instead?

Why would you want to do this? The factory pods are 5.25" and if you replace them with a decent aftermarket 5.25, deaden the pod and fill with a bit of dacron you'll be surprised at how good they sound. I certainly wouldn't put 6.5 back there cos the factory pod doesn't have enough volume to be a decent enclosure for them (not unless the 6.5s are designed for a very small enclosure). With subs in the boot, you'll have plenty of bass so no need for the bass reinforcement that 6x9s offer. In a nutshell you'll get no benefit fitting 6x9 over a 5.25 and the 5.25s will be much simpler to fit.

Cheack the earth wire from the headunit. Symptoms you have are usual for: 1. Bad power or earth wiring. 2. Speakers are wrong impedance for amplifier

I've still got some Image Dynamics ID12 left from when I was importing them. $150 each (brand new). They were the entry level ID sub (RRP was around $400 from memory) and are on a rough par with the best of what Alpine and Soundstream produce sound quality wise. They're rated at 250rms but will happily handle about 500rms. They also suit infinite baffle so if boot space is an issue then IB is a good way to get around it.

Selling my old set of fronts on TM http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=353584405

In a word, NEVEROne thing to note for e39 owners is the bass is severly muffled unless you have a ski pass. Some fitment guides that might help others looking at doing this: With dsp: http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...Sedan_97-03.pdf Without dsp: http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...9_-_Non-DSP.pdf

The JVC FS60 are plain rubbish, no fault of Driving Sound Mt Eden. Friend went in there for a new headie, as old headie should have been on display in Motat. Left front speaker wasn't working. DS change headie and tell him that front speakers were completely munted and so install the JVC fronts instead. Friend doubts this so demands front speakers back, then pays bill and leaves. Brings "munted" speakers to me. The speakers were in immaculate condition and full working order; hardly surprising since I'd fitted them brand new the previous week !!! So basically these clowns lied to him to get a sale, and I guess the "munted" speakers would have been sold on for some more $$$ in the salesman's/manager's pocket. I should also mention the substandard workmanship and complete laziness of the installer, but suffice it to say I'd rather fry my testicles on the oven hotplate than step through the door of Driving Sound Mt Eden.

Look into brands like Rainbow, DLS. Remember that a properly installed 5.25 will play lower and sound better than a poorly installed 6.5. I have to recommend against using Driving Sound Mt Eden. The stunt they pulled on a friend bordered on fraudulence. They put those JVC FS60 components in his car and I would rate them as some of the worst speakers I've ever had the misfortune of listening to.

This might help: http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...stall_Guide.pdf

Think Paul's bought out the leftover Focal stock.This was posted by them on another forum. SB27V2 - 11" Polyglass V2 sub box - $300 SB21V2 - 8" Polyglass V2 sub box - $250 33V1 - 13" Polyglass V1 subwoofer - $200 40V2 - 16" Polyglass V2 subwoofer - $250 27V2 - 11" Polyglass V2 Subwoofer - $230 46KX4 - 16" Polykevlar 18" Quad 1 ohm coil subwoofer - $850 BENo6 - BE No6 component set - $3500 BE21WX - BE 8" subwoofer - $1000 BE13WS - BE 5" subwoofer - $350 5WS - Utopia 5" subwoofer - $150 165K3P - Polykevlar 3 way component set - $800 210CV1 - Polyglass 8" coax set - $200 130KP - Polykevlar 5" component set - $350 165KP - Polykevlar Power 6" component set - $400 100VSLIM - Polyglass 4" shallow mount component set - $300 SB27V1 - 11" Polyglass V1 sub box - $200 13KS - 5" Polykevlar Subwoofer - $150 SB40V2 - 16" Polyglass V2 Sub box - $400 27V1 - 11" Polyglass V1 subwoofer - $100 165V3E - Polyglass 3 way component set - $450

This may help http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...stall_Guide.pdf

try www.usps.com much cheaper than ups and quick delivery

Guessing you're amping fronts and sub and running rears from headunit. So 2 pair RCA will work for you if you wanted to go even cheaper. You're running a basic system with reasonable quality components and any of these midrange headunits will provide sufficient sq that the differences between them won't really be noticeable on your system The JVC R816 is a good unit; BT works well and ipod control is fast. I've only had a little play with one and can't remember how well the interface worked (ie how easy is it to search the ipod, or dial a call). I'd expect the Pioneer to be on a par in terms of sound quality but haven't played with that unit so can't comment firmly. I run a higher end JVC in 2 of my cars and they've both gone well. The interfaces could be improved, but otherwise I'm happy to recommend them. Drop into your local Repco or the like and see if they've got one on their demo board. Have a good play with it and see how easy/difficult it is to use. Seems that illumination colour is important to you, if so look at the r816 with has the varicolour illumination. Otherwise the r716 is cheaper, has 2 pair rca and only basic illumination.

What is the rest of your audio system and do you have any expansion plans? ie adding a sub or amping all the speakers etc?

Any specific reason you want the Pioneer one? Have you looked at the JVC KD-R816 which is about $200 cheaper than the P700bt and has pretty much the same feature set.