rogan

Going to hardwire my gate remote into the e39 and use the high beam to activate it. Will be using a constant to momentary output circuit like this one: http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#ctm Anyone know where I can easily tap into a 12V+ highbeam that won't give me error messages about blown bulbs etc? Thanks

Here's the guide for installing BSW speakers, should help you through how to remove your existing speakers and replace them http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/product-...-_E46_Sedan.pdf If you're not looking for big bass that booms then I'd find some factory speakers. The speakers are mounted in an odd baffle so you can't simply chuck some aftermarket speakers in there. You're never going to get big bass from small front components unless you spend a fait whack of diy time and money improving the front doors as an enclosure. Even then you'd be better off directing that cash to a sub and amp. Speak to someone like Ray at HellBM and see if he's got any front speakers in stock 021 2 HELL BM (021 2435526)

AFAIK the holders are on the sides, is there any way of popping the clock out and having a look from the side

Surprisingly you can put CDs in the DVD shuttle! 2 changers cos they were cheap on trademe. There's another optical CD shuttle somewhere in my garage too! The bad part is there's only one optical input for the shuttles into the processor and the DVD takes that under the ai-net protocol. I should pull the dvd shuttle out, would give me somewhere to hide the tyreweld cans.

Horn loaded compression drivers otherwise known as HLCDs. In very simple terms, they're a type of tweeter, but completely different to a tweeter! They play 1khz up as opposed to tweeters which are usually say 4khz up, and are hugely efficient. Downside is that some people just don't like the way they sound. They were popular in high end car audio in the US in the early to late 1990s but aren't common anymore.

Just about finished this install now so time for a quick highlights tour. 16 months in the making, would have been heaps quicker if I wasn't under the thumb. Front end: Alpine IVA-W202 (note the bezel has been replaced since as this one was unpainted) Processor and amps: Alpine H701 processor Image Dynamics ID Q450.4 for horns and rears 2x ID Q700.2 for midbass 2x ID Q1200.1 for subs Horns: ID CD2pro Midbass: ID X69 Big thanks to the guys at Rapid for making the pods Subs: 2 x IDMax12 dual 4 in trunk baffle Shuttles: Alpine optical DVD and CD shuttles

And the bigger the speaker, the more volume of air is needed in the enclosure (generally). Trying to get sufficient enclosure for the 8s in the kicks will be difficult unless you cut metal and go an infinite baffle route. If in the doors, you wouldn't mount them to the door cards, you'd build pods to mount them to the frame, then seal and deaden the doors.5.25s in the kicks isn't an option for everyone. My feet and legs are too big but for normal sized people this isn't really an issue. Having the 5.25s down there can lead to a stronger phantom centre channel but less stage width. Putting them in the doors could weaken the centre channel and mean a very spacial sound. How you'd get 8s in the kicks without interfering with gas pedal access is beyond me. From my vague memory of the front of an e30, I reckon you can only put 8s in the doors and even then you'd have to be very careful of window opening and intrusion into leg space. Sounds like you've got enough then. One thing to consider is it's much harder to get a 3way front stage right than a 2way. I once tried a 5way front stage, never again, it's 2way for me from now on. Aren't they? Obviously you'd have to be clearly insane to have 6x9s in the front. Hehehehe

The problem I see is regardless of whether you put 8s or 6.5s in the front, they're going to be constrained by their enclosure. From memory the e30 factory mounts are horriffic to work with. I think you'd struggle to get an 8" in the kicks. You also wouldn't want to put the 8s in the kicks and the 5.25 in the doors, why have the higher frequency speakers closer to you. If you must do 8s + 5.25s then put the 8s in the doors and the 5.25 in the kicks. Also consider you're going to need more amps (presume active xover) and crossovers.

I'd go 6.5s for that car. I did a small install on the wife's old e30 and I can't remember seeing anywhere you could put 8s. There a post on Bimmerforums where a guy fitted speakers into the doors just in front of the armrest in custom pods - can't remember if they were 6s or 8s and can't find the link either.

TA is no panacea for poor placement of speakers but it does help. It is pretty useless for frequencies over 2khz (tweeters), but can be used quite effectively when marrying midbass to subbass.

The P80RS was $899 brand new RRP. The P80RSII was a stuffed up order and Monaco flogged them out at $499. I can't find any real difference between the two except the facia colour. Going price for a P80RS is about $400. One went on TM for $200 a couple of days ago. If you're running ipod you'll need the adaptor which is over $100 (can't remember the price) Sound quality is good but the ipod is slow. I find the P80 quite easy to use. Escape button is a blessing for the wife. Alpine 9835 was the ducks nuts in its time. Ipod is painfully slow through KCA420i adaptor. The new Alpine full speed ipod is much faster and being just a cable it's way cheaper too. 9887 is an excellent piece of kit but you need to find someone with the Imprint manager kit (unless the retailer has one) to make the most of it.

-1 for Bavarian Motor Works. They started off well but have shagged me around big time recently. Looking for another place now. -1 for Bellars. When Gavin was running the place it was the best. We used it once under the new owners and wouldn't go back: somehow Ken managed to seriously annoy my wife. There's another place on Wairau Rd. Anyone know anything about it?

lol . Perfect for me then. I drive like a nanna.

You'll also need some way of controlling charging of batteries. I suggest a BEP Marine VSR (voltage sensing relay). I didn't have a cap in my Rangerover with a dual battery set up and medium power stereo.

One quick thought. Do you have a band expander? If so someone might have wired this to the +12v battery by mistake.

good test disc free here http://binkster.net/extras.shtml

stolen from bimmerforums: BMW E46 Coupe w/ Standard 6.25" Front Midbass - 3 prong mount 2.5" Front Midrange - Shared Housing w/ Tweeter 3/4" Front Tweeter 2.5" Rear Midrange 6.25" Rear Midbass - 3 prong mount BMW E46 Coupe w/ HK(Premium) 6.25" Front Midbass - 3 prong mount 2.5" Front Midrange - Shared Housing w/ Tweeter 3/4" Front Tweeter 2.5" Rear Midrange 6.25" Rear Midbass - 3 prong mount 2x 6x9 Subwoofers - Rear Deck

You just got you ass served to you on a plate. Maybe you should have walked away with some dignity when you had the chance a couple of posts back. Instead you want to play the big know-it all and end up totally embarrasing yourself by demonstrating fundamental lack of knowledge. Your personal insults are simply pathetic. I appreciate you're trying to score some points to dig your way out of this humiliation, but just pull your head in. Your amp doesn't produce 2200rms at 2 ohms. Re-read the paragraph titled fuses again.

e3s, you need to take off your internet superhero suit. Specs: I presume this is where you sourced the specs for the amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_223_Bo...es+Class+D.html Why did you need to add (RMS) to the specs? Weight: 16lbs, that’s about 7kg. If it could do 3k rms then you’d expect a bit more weight as the heatsink has to diffuse heat away from the transistors. Yes, you can reduce this weight with fans and intelligent design but you’re always going to need a bit of weight there. If the amp is 75% efficient then there going to be the heat equivalent of 1krms to be dispersed at full power. Go and ask your mum if you can borrow her hair dryer, this will roughly tell you what amount of heat you’re dealing with. Dimensions: About right. Footprint of something like the e-audio3000d isn’t too much bigger. Internals: I’ve only been able to find pics of the internals of a Riot2200D http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Boss_Riot_R2200D/ Note the substantial lack of transistors on the heatsink and the wildly exaggerated ratings compared to the SS Picasso PCA1000D which shares the same board. So what does this tell us about the R3000D. Well it tells us that published specs aren’t reliable. Fuses: The manual for your amp can be downloaded here: http://www.bossaudio.com/support/index.php...nloaditemid=455 . According to the specs on pg3, your amp has 3x30a fuses. Unless you amp miraculously circumvents Newton’s law of conservation of energy, the most power it can produce at 14.4v is 1296w. At 75% efficiency that’s 972w. Wiring: You’ve got 4ga terminals on the amp. If you were playing with 3k rms then you’d expect 0ga terminals. Review: The review you posted was from here http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/3410.html . The guys wants high THD??? What does he like listening to distortion? Have a look at MEXXX’s post. He raves about the R3000d but admits the power ratings are wrong. Noobiness: Couldn’t find your age from your profile but I read a recent post of yours and you would appear to still be living at home with dad. If that’s the case then I think it’s safe to assume that I was playing with car audio while you were sitting in the garden figuring out which route to drive your Tonka dump truck across the sand pit. Does, experience count for everything, no, but it carries a fair bit of weight. Car analogies: You bought a Lada. Yes, you bought the Lada Sport turbo, but the salesman saw you coming and convinced you to pay Porsche pricing for it. Had you done any research or asked people with some experience (and listened to them), you could have been driving a Porsche. Unfortunately you fell for the marketing bs and bought the Lada Sport Turbo. If you’d opened the bonnet you would have found drum brakes, leaf springs, and no turbo; but you would have the Sport Turbo badge on the boot lid to make up for it. But what’s my opinion worth? Apparently, since I haven’t owned a Lada for the past 3 years, then I am not in any fit position to comment on them. Value for money: You paid >$1k for this by your own admission. You could have had an E-audio 1000d brand new for much less and you could have stepped up to something like the DLS A6 for the same coin. The salesman saw you coming and you got ripped, you even bought a capacitor. Capacitors: You use a capacitor. Enough said. Summary:Next time you go waving your e-shlong around on a website, make sure your arguments are sound and you know what you’re talking about. Unfortunately you are one of the dangerous people who has enough knowledge to think he knows what he’s talking about but not enough knowledge to actually know what he’s talking about. And pjay’s initial assessment of your fuse rating (even tho he got the wrong Boss amp) is actually spot on. And you called him an idiot? I stand by my initial opinion of your amp. It’s a piece of junk. If you strapped 2 of them together you could probably use them as a boat anchor. I appreciate this is the best amp you’ve ever run; but all this actually says is that you have very limited experience in car audio (although you claim otherwise). Now please go crawl back under a rock and leave this forum to people who know what they’re talking about.

So what model is this god's gift to amps?

I've got no problem with e3s; he's entitled to his opinion and to argue it as much as I'm entitled to tell him he's wrong. But please ditch the Nissan analogy, it's an insult to Nissan.

I'll put it as nicely as I can and I don't generally brandbash (except Xplode and JL of course); Boss is flea-market rubbish - their build quality is appalling and they're hugely noisy. It's the type of brand where you'd want to check the fuses are even connected.

pwned

Yikes, that's hideous.

No overheating issues, but don't have the subs in yet. Time will tell.