Mark

And you took a photo while driving? Safe.

Come along to the Christchurch meet and illustrate your problem, someone might be able to shed some light on it. In neutral and at proper operating temperature what RPM does your car idle at?

Good luck putting a set of 5 series, 5 stud, Style 5's on your E30 (or even finding a set to begin with). But have fun. Now; no more threads on this subject please until you've actually rid yourself of the chromes.

You don't drive in those heels do you?

We should do a "Team BBS" photoshoot sometime. You coming to the meet on the 19th?

She's not a he/she... notice there's only one crap-tastic post from December on a shitty gossip blog that mentions it? I'd definitely let her see my Poker face.

Looking hot Jeddy... Let's get some pics of the car back on the ground rockin' those RS's!

Looks kind of like my kit... but mine doesn't have that hole in the rear bumper for what appears to be the tow hook. EDIT: Not my kit... it's Riley's.

http://gannetboy.mybrute.com Got pwned by Nick and Pjay... but I'll live to fight another day.

This. /thread

Sweet, at some point I'm gonna do this to my wheels. Diamond schwartz centre with polished lip. Mmmm.

I kicked your ass Atta. Even though you had a dog biting me and a big ass club! Fear the gannetboy!

Hmmm, I'm not sure either. When I did the E28 it took a whole day just for clay. I imagine it was just the fact I was working on a a smaller car this time around. Plus, it was a cool day so I could work fast without getting too tired. Gonna keep waxing each weekend to build up a real mo-fo of a shine. Should look sweet.

I'm certainly keen for some wholesale action!

Leading Edge Automotive have all the Bosch stuff for scanning. Also, Kevin Burt BMW on St Asaph Street, but I've found their service (of the people variety) to be a bit on the thin side. I've taken my E30 to DCH Motorsport in Washbournes road and they know their stuff... will be getting a bit of engine work done by them in the near future.

How uneven are we talking here? All E36's have somewhat of a "gangsta lean" to one side. Nothing to worry about.

6 cylinder 3 series cars have the battery in the boot simply because there's no room in the engine bay for it. Probably also aids in proper weight distribution. 4 cylinder cars have them in the front cos there's heaps of room... puny engine you see!

^^^ Legend! Thanks for that.

Incary, I'd use a heap of bug and tar remover on it first, then use the clay bar afterwards. You can see in one of the pics that I got quite a bit of tar off bottoms of the doors with the clay, but if you have heaps you'll soil the clay pretty quickly.

Back that truck up Yuen, this was 5 hours working on the bodywork only! Just the metal bits. Still yet to do the inside, the trim, the wheels and wheel arches etc.... it'll be getting up to a respectable 10 hours after next weekend!

I used half a bar for the whole car. So, you'd get two cars the size of an E30 from one bar. Which equals $19 a car. Not too bad considering you only need to clay once a year.

UPDATE: Interior pics and Black Kidney grilles mod on page 2 I finally had a chance today to give the E30 a proper detail. I had been itching to do this since the day I got it home, but today conditions were perfect. Overcast, cool temperature, girlfriend pre-occupied with Uni assignment, no other plans on my part. So here's how it went down. STEP 1: First order of business: Debadge. The "M" badge was dorky and I've flamed so many people about having one on their car inappropriately so it had to go! I also wasn't a fan of the painted 325i badge, so that went south as well. Wax and grease remover from Supercheap and some dental floss did the trick. The badges left some marks, but the next step took care of that. You can also see how filthy the car is in this shot. I should be ashamed. STEP 2: Wash and clay bar! As soon as the water hit I knew the car hadn't been waxed for a long time as the water stuck to the paint like glue. So, a quick wash was all that was needed and on to the claying. For those of you still sceptical about the importance of clay, check these pics out: After claying half the bootlid... with a piece of clean clay for comparison. And after claying the bottom of the passenger door. You'd never get that sort of crap off with an All-in-one wash and wax and a sponge... A clay bar can cost over $50 from Repco or Supercheap. (I use the Meguiar's one which is about $38 at Supercheap). So, the last thing you want to do is drop the thing, rendering it useless. Lay down a towel when claying vertical surfaces because you WILL drop it. The stuff in the Mr Muscle bottle is just water and car soap for lubrication. After claying and a quick rinse and dry: This is after clay only, nothing else... pretty impressive. STEP 3: Polish. No pics here because my arm was working overtime. I just used a mild Polyglaze polish, because there is very minimal swirling in the clearcoat. STEP 4: Wax. I decided to take my own advice and apply the wax by hand, literally. Seriously, it's far better than using a cloth because you use less wax and the extra control you have over where the wax goes means you don't need to mask up the trim. The amount on my fingers was enough to do 1/6th of the bonnet. You don't need much. It makes buffing easier too. Compulsory reflection shot: STEP 5: A quick once over with the Instant Detailer that came with the clay bar and ta-da. Shiny E30. This whole process took 5 hours. 30 minutes for the wash, 2 hours for the clay. 1  hour for polish. 1 hour and 20 minutes for the wax. And 10 minutes to down 2 beers at the end of it!

Thanks for that... I'll give it another crack!

Cheers Nick, yeah I've googled my arse off.... but that procedure is for facelift cars only. No bolts to be found in those locations on my car. Well.... there might be, if I can figure out how to get the valance off!

Hi all... trying to adjust my rear bumper because it has sagged and left about a 2cm gap between the bumper and the car. I want to lift it up to fit snugly but can't figure out how to remove the bumper to adjust the mounting brackets. (I'm assuming that's what I need to do) The ACS valance is I think what is causing the headache, I need to remove that first but I can't figure out how it is attached to the bumper. My copy of the Haynes manual is as useless as tits on a bull merely stating "remove all retaining bolts, installation is reverse of removal"Â Can anyone help? Cheers, Mark.