OP6

Changing the tips will not quieten the exhaust, nor is the noise due to the large single pipe running under the car to the rear muffler, the noise is due to the muffler itself. If you don't like the tips then just replace them, - are they welded on?

Welcome to Bimmersport, good to see a 7 series. they are very under rated cars. Enjoy !

Remember you need to have seats suitable for a 2 door E30.

I have one from a facelift E30, but has insert area for headlight adjuster. no clips though. PM me if your interested. From memory it is in perfect condition.

Deane the car is looking fantastic, very impressed that you are still keeping it stock, the temptation to stray into modified territory must be great. Well done

Well done Mark, great photos, great range of E30s and nice to see a few E39s and E36s turn up. Fantastic bunch of guys. Roll on the next meet and lets hope for warmer weather.

Hi, i have a complete rear subframe which I am willing to sell, but not keen on breaking this up. I also have the front sub frame assembly available.

Perhaps the timing is out. Has this problem just started?

Hey, easy - just use a heat gun (without melting the plastic) and the plastic will take its original shape or you most likely will have to shape it and hold that shape until it cools and hardens - spray water to cool it.

Hey Louis, looking really good, clean and tidy for a PFL, especially now it is lowered. Like the Euro plate.

Hey I have one, am in CHC have pm'd you

Hey, I would be interested to see a write up

After the rubber boot as per photo for a 1990 e30 325i (South African). Brent do you have any?

Thanks to all, re the camshafts. Looks like an area worthy of further investigation some time in the future. For the present I shall check the condition of the 323 cam and if all good install it in the 325 head. As for upping the compression, that too makes sense as the I believe the later 325's have a 8.8 compression ratio and not being a daily driver it is something I could live with. I shall try to find a copy of Total BMW magazine - sounds like a worthy read Cheers guys

Done

Glenn, thankyou for your reply, in otherwords there is no specific rule as there are too many variables therefore the only way is to have the camshafts measured and go from there. I have an E21 323 manual with a camshaft that I believe has been ground and then hardened, and I am now replacing that engine with an auto 1990 South African 325 engine, for 2 reasons - piston slap and continual problems with the K Jetronic - and I thought that I could put the 323 cam into the 325. I shall get the 323 cam checked and go from there, the mild street regrind would probably go well with the ACS headers that I intend putting in there. Again thanks

! - Are all 320 323 and 325 M20 camshfts the same and interchangeable? 2 - I had heard that the early 323 camshafts allowed the valves to stay open a little longer, is this correct? 3 - Is the South African built 325 F/L engine the same as the Japanese and European F/L engines? I have searched for the answers on this forum but found nothing conclusive, so anything anybody can tell me would be great. I have a 325 engine which is about to go into my 323 ( E21) and I am trying to find out if there would be an advantage in using my 323 cam in the 325. Cheers

Absolutely awesome, the thing just exudes testesterone!

Hi Sam, would be interested in the engine, I'm in CHC, and I would like to see and hear the engine, the time delay of a few months is no problem. Cheers

Hi Nathan, Interested in the manual window winders, let me know if still available and price, Cheers Don. PS sent a text re the above the other day

looks like a fresh Japanese import and perhaps never been on the road in the UK

I would like to see any info on the E21, So a big yes from me. Cheers

Thanks for that, I shall try it tomorrow night, and let all know what happens.

Car - 1993 E36 325i Problem- Temperature guage normally reads dead centre once fully warmed up, but today only reached a fraction above the blue segement. Heater still pumps out hot air, maybe a little hotter than usual but I'm not sure on that. The hose from the bottom of the radiator up to the waterpump? is warm but not hot, you can hold on to it even after 10 minutes of running, however the top hose to the radiator is very hot as is the coolant in the expansion tank. No coolant loss. The waterpump was replaced just over a year ago with a non factory item, the thermostat may have been replaced at the same time - I would have thought so. So what is the most likely problem and dare I drive it to the nearest specialist - about 15 to 20 minutes of urban driving. Cheers

Just go into Christchurch BMW and ask at service reception, they did for us.