e30ftw

Not sure what you mean by that? These are the custom shortened koni's distributed through Ground Control in their coil over kits if that helps. Ohh if you mean what they fit.... E30 all models e36 318ti z3 Since they all use the same rear shock setup afaik.

Anyone interested? I'll take $480 shipped

Thats lucky, after you collect your 2 free beers you won't have far to stumble home

It makes you talkative?

Where do people buy their Bilstein shocks new from? (sorry hijack)

Have a pair of e30/ e36 318ti/ z3 rear Koni adjustable shocks. Brand new never installed. About 20mm shorter than stock. These are the custom valved shocks distributed through Ground Control in their coil over kits. DO NOT include the upper shock mounts. Can throw in a pair of standard rear shock mounts, but not the ones pictured. $370 shipped! BRAND NEW. Offers welcome.

It looks like royalblue metallic like me and matty104's e30s ? That 'Blurple' colour.

Cheers guys, yeah definitley taking my time and triple checking things as I go. Currently having the front struts shortened about 2" and spacers made, then the perches welded on for the ground controls in front. Shops abit full on at the moment so could be expecting them about early next week if not by the weekend. Also they can't shorten my rear koni adjustables. So will have to sell these and maybe get some billy sports that I can shorten. Any ideas on the value of mine? 20mm shorter koni adjustable shocks. Anyone interested?

Not a bad idea heh. Would move it but can't be bothered finsding a new home for it and also the parcel tray will be left with some holes. I'll paint it black and you prob won't see it with a tinted rear window.

It WAS mint but cos I used to park my car outside it started a very very small crack in the usual place they do crack, Can' see it unless your closed up. Was friggin gutted when I was cleaning the car one day noticed the crack appearing. What were you referring to wiring? Yeah I just loctited that bolt and tightened the Sh*t out of it hah. Pre-FL have a few missing wires, But everything to get it running should be there, I remember Troy saying there were '8' wires needed to connect for it to run. The other 6 or w/e aren't too important (tach etc). haha I have always had the amp there PO had put it there in a 325i coupe I had.. Just moved it over. Can't really notice it when the back windows tinted, but it's blatantly obvious sticking there anyways lol but has never given me trouble or anything.. Riiicer

My mate took his camera back so I went and bought a cheap as one, takes the 'makes it look worse than it is' kinda pics.. So bare with my horrible photo taking.. Anyways, Have shadowlined window trim. Rear seat and rear parcel are back in. Got some Wax and grease remover and spent AGES scrubbing the adhesive off my windows as my tints were slightly too dark for VTNZ Had to remove the clutch and re-align it to get the gearbox to fit on, But now have the gearbox joined up to the m50 and put in the m20 starter too. Still need to swap this e34 pan and pick up onto it though, Will probably do it when I get a hoist and am ready to drop it in. Found that the front bolt holding the pulley on the oil pump was loose too, so cleaned it and thread locked it back on.. My full 2.5" exhaust to play around with later.. (running out of things to take pics off lol) Oh and my new instrument cluster and most of the interior now back in place.. Ju7st need a new ignition barrel loom as the plug pops off every now and then. Then the steering shroud and steering wheel can pop back on. Can't do much engine wise as I have been trying to find someone who can shorten my front strut housings. Have to wait for tomorrow and go to Quality Autos as the engineer there seems to be the only guy round here who can hah.. So yeah it's been sitting up on jacks and can't move it anywhere (motor is sitting right infront of it). Once the strut housings are shortened and perches welded on I'll be able to put them back in and then it'll be m50 drop in time

Looks good man well done!

Oh no you didn't!

Easiest way drop your subframe and hoist the engine.

Ahh sweet, must have had the indicator down then,sounds about right. I d/c power and started plugging more things in and so forth and after the cluster was in it was off. Probably bumped it back. Well atleast that makes sense now lol

Mine was doing similar today, I powered the loom for the second time since I lay that sh*t out and the left rear park light or brake light came on with no key in or anything. I chucked the key in and turned it, it turned off. But as soon as the key came out it would pop back on. Weird as.. I fiddled around and couldn't make it change but it went off once I plugged the instrument cluster in so maybe that had something to do with it?

Royal blue metallic is it?

Good read. Crazy the amount of information you can find about people online these days..

Dealer price was about ~$400. Not sure what they are now, but that gives you a ball park figure. They are known as an 'IS lip' by the way.

Yeah we had big sheets of wood and used bits of 4x2 for the frame, had 6 legs (corners and 2 in the middle), then 3 bits going up at the back and some angled bits.. It was low as to the ground though and theback was on a 45 degree angle to when you sat back you were liying back pretty much hah.

haha me and my mate made a wooden frame and stuck my rear seats to it. Was dope as f*ck.

Awwwwwesome. F*cken love it.

Yeah keep with it man, Have bought countless amount of parts of you over the past year. Do I dare add it all up Lol

Quad core eh? 6gig RAM.. Pretty good graphics.. You going to be gaming too?

Now this is a cool build. What else is happening to it?