petone

Went for a decent drive today and its all made a hell of a difference, especially in the rear. The rear wheels actually follow the front now instead of wandering off on their own. The whole car just feels way more planted. Also my shuddering under braking is gone as well now. Only thing left to do is bigger front sway and upgrade the front shocks to match the ones in the rear. I recommend the rear subframe bushings most off all but even the powerflex CABs are good, we only paid $90NZ for a pair including freight so they are really worth it as well. The car is a bit harsher over cateyes etc but not as bad as I was expecting, no squeaking either.

facelift or prefacelift?

all the usual bits people are after? LSD, mtec kit etc...

I wouldn't say that, its only been running for one day, only one person has voted for E28, and theres way more than that on the site, same for E39, E46 etc. wouldn't be much more than 45 though.

that thing is rad,

I'm guessing that engine is a S50Bxx?

buy my subs and box...

Why waste money on a BMW service? its a 20year old 318i, not a M3. Either do it yourself or just get your normal mechanic to do it. If you got all the tools and someone who can help then do the service yourself, I just taught myself doing stuff on my car.

Don't listen to that other guy who said no chrome, Chrome is good. Just make sure its only on your bumpers and grill.

you forgot vt@k sticker, he could be losing valuable hp.

welcome to site, your car would be pretty similar to mine.

Don't do any mods yet, just make sure its all sweet mechanically and theres no rust. Give it a service (fluids and filters) unless you know it was done recently.

These cars are slow but will take a beating.

Just drive it for a while and see what you like or don't like about it. Before you ask the engine ain't worth spending any money on other than servicing, pod filter etc don't do sh*t for performance.

lastly

dnt rite n txt c0s it wil p1ss ppl of k?

It was the front I wanted...

I already have one in the back

I got everything back together and into the car apart from a inner control arm ball joint which I'll press in tomoro. There wasn't enough clearance for the trailing arm bolts with the IE subframe bushes so they bushes had to be "modified", even after hacking part of it off there is still only just enough room to get the nut in there.

I lubed everything up with shitloads of grease and no squeaking yet but I don't know how long it will stay like that for. It will be interesting to see how well it stays in adjustment for, I'm getting it all aligned on Monday so I won't drive it till then as I know it will be pretty bad. I'll probably just get it set to factory specs and see how that goes.

I don't plan I dropping the rear subframe for a while, what a f**king mission. So much stuff has to come out and I dropped it all as one piece as was too lazy to do take apart stuff I didn't need to. I also had to put it all back in as a complete piece as there was no way I could line up the trailing arm bolts with no space. also had to bash up part of the floor pan so the camber plates would fit.

Anyway I'll go for a decent drive on monday after my W/A and post up the verdict.

I drive like more of an a**hole in my mums civic, coz its not mine

its not mine and I don't give a f**k

I never had any trouble in the bimmers I've driven though

ahh even better, so you will have the whole car there when you do the swap? In that case just take everything from the 325i. Also take its swaybars, front struts (if they aren't damaged) cos chances are they are bigger and beefier than your 320 stuff.

you neeed to put the 2.5 loom and ecu into your car as the 2.5 will be motronic and your car is L-jet, so some re-wiring is required. Are both g/boxes manual? If there are they should all bolt up fine, even use your old slave cylinder. You will need to shorten your driveshaft as my friend did the same swap, (if your 320i is manual that is). LSD will go straight in. I have a shortened d/shaft for sale which is for a 325i engine and 5spd box.

Exactly what he said, although as your car is a 325i it is definatley motronic.

Just randomly on the 325e, i saw an LHD 325es the other day. I was trying to figure out why someone would go to the trouble of bringing an eta over, not too mention whether it was on the road legally.

For some reason I don't like crome mags on white cars but the crome bumbers, window strips and kidneys look good on white, I got no intention of shadowlining mine. You just have to keep it shiny.

meh screw pedalling...

Get a honda

Hi all, I though I'd start this thread as I'm pulling quite a lot of parts out of my car and replacing them so I'm probably going to have a few questions. Also since I'm finally correcting my hideous rear camber it might help a few others if they decide to do it.

Anyway, my new bits including...

Ireland Engineering camber and toe kits

Powerflex Control arm bushes

IE Subframe and Trailing arm bushes

New Tierods and rack ends

Lower rear spings

325i swaybar (coming)

I'm doing the front end stuff first then I'll pull the subframe, which should be interesting after 250000km and a small crash.

First question... Whats the easiest way to press in the powerflex CABs? Is there a trick to it or just line them up and stick em in a press? Would a vice be okay to use?

And, how do you tell if a control arm ball joint is stuffed. I pulled my control arm out to replace some torn boots and the middle ball joint is really loose. No noticable play but it is really loose.

pic of new bits

Haha that would be called the family meal deal challenge, if you manage to eat it all the people you are with pay for it otherwise you pay.

Jazz, I'd agree with that. I would drive faster in both our BMW's as they sound nice when you rev them, however when I'm driving the work vans they sound pretty shitty so I don't rev them as hard. Yeah might sound stupid but its true.

I can understand changing the exhasut for a better sounds, as long as its not stupidly loud and you don't lose any perfromance. I have a bigger exhaust on my car but it doesn't really do heaps for performance but it does sound a lot nicer (not too much louder but sounds way throatier) and looks way better than stock.

But nothing worse than some shitheap 1.3L with a huge exhasut that makes heaps of noise and doesn't go anywhere.

Also, if i'm going for a proper drive I"ll turn the radio off, I normally only have it one when i'm going slow (or normal speed)

Yeah thats the one, I was sure it wasn't BBS but couldn't remember the proper name.

I was under the impression it would only fit early pre FL cars as even pre FL have slightly different bumpers, but that could be a different bumper to the one Im thinking of

Welly, and I'm up till the start of Feb

Since I'm not going to put this in my car anymore I have a M20B25 engine for sale. Its complete longblock with fuel rail and injectors, TB, intake manifols, exhaust manifold, alternator, and oil pan.

Missing Bits: Dizzy, starter, thermostat. No loom or ECU but one on TradeMe ATM

I haven't heard this running but have been told it ran fine before it was removed. Out of E34 525i BTW. I'm probably going to part it out but if anyone wants the everything let me know and we can sort something out. If no one on here is interested then it goes on Trademe. If you have a FL 320i this would be a real good engine upgrade. Can't tell you milage sorry.

$600 for everything or ask me for individual parts

Also have another M20B25 block, crank, and conrods

Dam, very nice daily.

I thought that the E36 325i had 140kw or 190hp at the crank as well.

Manual or auto?

Haha yeah changed my mind again. Turbo M10 is calling. I'll sell off my M20B25, and slowly start sorting out turbo bits. Its gonna be a waste of cash putting 2.5 in then going back to M10. Check TradeMe or For Sale section soon for longblock 2.5 In the mean time I just have a slow but cheap ride.

Besides M10 Turbo was a clear winner... Watch this space.

Gus- 2.5 conver will be way cheaper than Turbo M10, engine managment alone will cost more than 2.5L. (Unless I just use a RRFPR and lightly boost it)

If I was to go Turbo M10 then common sense says to go with Link as it is tried and true but it would sort of take the fun out of it, if you know what I mean. I need to have a chat with andrew about his Link.

I might just rock the 2.5 for a year while I get all the bits I need, as theres no way I'll get anything done on Turbo for the three months I'm home. At least I know I can get a 2.5 sorted in that time. I'd rather not wait another year for more grunt. That gives me plenty of time to work out exactly what I'll need and wait for bargains to come along.

Anyway what else have I forgoten that I'll need if I convert to 2.5? Engine is out of E34 BTW

I have (If I get that stuff on trademe): longblock engine, 6 cyl box, 2x (TB and intake mani), ECU, Loom, AFM, and a spare M20B20 long block engine with all the bits attached. (Good for oil pan, mounts etc)

The main thing I need is radiator as Driveshaft could be shortened. The 2.5 longblock is also missing the dizzy but I assume they wont be too difficult to come across. I also have to check whether I got a clutch or not.

Questions- Oil pans, are E30/E34 different? If they are will one from a 320i work ok?

Exhaust manifold- will 2.0L mani work ok on a 2.5L or are they too small?

I'd really like to Turbo but it wouldnt be possible for ages, also a 2.5 conversion is much more likely to actually happen.

Wow, turned out quite long post

ps That 2002 sounds awesome, is it a targa or track car?

So what mods would be legal?