petone

Yeah welly meet be good. Just plan it for January cos I go back down south at the start of Feb.

We all know tha the stock 318i is pretty dam slow, I've had mine for 2.5 years and really want more grunt. I've started researching a turbo setup and was all set to start aquiring all the bits I needed. (Turbo, injectors, sensors, blah blah) The only thing I hadn't decided on was ECU. Either Link, RRFPR with BTM, or one of the DIY options like MegaSquirt or VEMS. I'd also need to sort out the manifold.

Anyway, I've just picked up a M20B25 longblock with intake manifold, alternator, TB etc. Only missing loom, ECU, exhaust manifold. But there is currently a loom, ECU, AFM etc on Trade Me which would be perfect. I also have a Getrag 260 5spd gearbox. So the only things I'd need to track down would a radiator, oil cooler, and driveshaft. I'd keep my 3.91 Diff

Question is: Do I scrap turbo idea and go with 2.5 conversion? I reckon it would cost me another $500 buy the time I'd bought all the extra bits and pieces, but it would be a full factory conversion and more reliable not to mention heaps easier. But its heavy and only good for 170hp. I've also helped out with a 2.5 conversion so I know whats involved.

Or, sell all my current bits to help fund turbo parts and just go with that like I planned? The would require way more work and will cost lots more but it would be an awesome project. It would be lighter and I was hoping to make around 200hp at the crank without too much trouble. I could even go to a 2L M10 block as the crank is forged. Also this could be done in stages as funds allowed. Not too mention a Turbo 1.8 M10 would be badass.

Ideas welcomed

PS a Turbo 2.5 is not going to happen

PSS- Suspension will be all sorted by time this goes ahead. Brakes are all ready upgraded.

Depends what you mean by fastest, even E30 318i had 3 different engines in them. The first 318i (M10) had 105hp, while the facelift used M40 which has 115hp, then the 318iS uses DOHC M42 which is around 140hp? AFAIK no-one on this site owns a 318i with any thing other than exhaust/intake. So I suppose the members with the 318iS will have fastest 4 cyls.

One member helped build up an M10 a while ago that supposedly went quite well. I've done the exhaust and built a CAI but I dont reckon it did much, I'd like to race a standard one though to see how it does.

300hp wouldn't be too difficult with FI

Nice, I'm loving number 3 - very lucky man.

wow, had no idea that the standard Mtech was that big, like I said, I've only seen Ohlins shocks that big.

Are Andy's J-stock shocks that big?

Welcome

Don't bring the is over. You won't be able to register it on the road until it is 20 years old. See various other threads for the details.

My bad, forgot all about that.

That shock rod on the "standard" shock is huge, looks more like a Ohlins shock (Not that they make them for E30 AFAIK). Are there any markings on the standard shock that might tell you otherwise? There is no way the standard 325i shock rods are that big.

As for not having to compress spring to get top nut on that is quite common with aftermarket springs. As long as it is captive when the nut is tightened up its all good.

Sorry I can't help anymore, but I'm interested to find out whether that "standard" strut is Mtech or aftermarket.

Welcome, the deal with WOF is every 12 months if less than 5(?) years old and 6 months if less than that. Cars are generally alot cheaper over here thanks to jap imports, (as you will have found) Replacement parts are easy enough to get but alot of performance parts have to be imported, or its much cheaper to import them.

Fuel is around $1.40 per litre, and insurance depends on your age. If your under 25 you going to get raped, ie full insurance for me (19yo with slightly modified 318i) is around $600, while 3rd party is $200. Basically if its over 2.5, turbo or a performance model and you are under 25 you might have a hard time finding cheap insurance. They even run a mile when you say BMW...

PS bring the iS over, we don't have many over here.

Its a proper box with a divider in the middle. A false panel just goes over the front with grills on it. Sealed box, can't remember exact volume but no more than 3 cube feet all up. The kewoods were happy with anything from 1 - 2 cube feet each so I went a bit less than 1.5 each to try and get tighter bass. If you are really keen I'll pull it out and give you the exact dimensions. How much you willing to pay for the box alone?

My sub setup is for sale...

blah

Perfect fit for E30 and you can still get spare tire out. Do you want witrh or without subs? make an offer.

Can't remember exact volume but is designed for those 2 subs.

Freight could be a problem though.

I use an air impact gun (rattle gun).

Yip, easiest method. We also use air gun to do them back up as you'll have the same problem. Its also a good idea to punch some dents into the threaded collar (holds the shock into the strut housing) once you have that back on just to make sure it stays put.

Go to BNT or one of the BMW specialists, cost around $300, which is pressure plate, clutch disc and bearing.

I think our gas over here isn't as good a quality as yours in the states. ie our 96 octane might be more like your 93. just something to think about.

Maybe he's got a 2L block in there?

Otherwise andrews right. Will definatly be the M10 though. Whats you email, I can email you part of the haynes manual if you want, might help you.

Just a random point:

I was reading that CFC don't do sh*t to the ozone layer, at first I just though it was some nut jobs but they have some decent science behind it. They're 4 times heavier than air, the hole is over antarctica while most CFC come from Northern Hemisphere. Also, ozone is naturally being continously being created and destroyed by the sun. Hence the hole over antarctica, it gets bigger during winter when there isn't as much sun falling in the earth.

Weird huh?

Easiest way by far if to find a complete 325i thats been crashed or is rusty etc... That way you know you'll have all the parts needed.

There are so many bits youll be able to take off as an upgrade for your car, aside from upgrades you will need:

Motor, radiator and all associated cooling, oil cooler, g/box, motormounts, driveshaft, loom (both sides I assume) just off the top of my head.

Upgrades: Sway bars, front struts, brakes (depends on what you have already), diff (should maybe be in the needs). Might also be an idea to put the springs and shocks in as well. And any other bits that you might want, Then once your done sell off any bits you don't need.

Haha I was in the wars on saturday after evil maths exam. I ran full speed at a bush to try and jump though it, didn't see the fence right behind it. Then got punched by some homo wigga who was trying to pic a fight with my mate. Lastly was running and tried to duck under a rather large branch. didn't duck enoughthough. Result, massive scratch all the way down my back. None of which really hurt at the time but Sunday was f**king horrible.

Self ownage sucks.

I might have missed something here but what about other superchargers? ie roots or the other kind i can't remember the name of.

Can someone tell me whether it would be worth me swapping to a 4.10? I have a 3.91 atm. I've had a look at Carl's spreadsheet but I don't know how much extra pick up i'd get. I can think of someone who might want to swap diffs...

(assuming they are they same case size)

Done your first burnout yet? (Controlled cirumstances of course)

If your box is in pretty good nick get yourself a short shifter. Also what did model did your box come out of? 320, 325? I think a 3.63 might be a bit low for 320i. My mates 320i was a 3.91 factory. Talk to carl, hes been through a few diffs.

I'm 99% sure that the keys with chips came out in 95' so you should be fine. Call up the $tealer, they'll be able to tell you for sure about the chip. If you do have the chip your looking at around $100 each key.

Yeah probably battery, Its just gets really intermitent when its dying. Mine got so bad I had to hold the remote upto the window to get it to work.

As for ACS, just go do some testing.

back ot.

Is there a website that has good suspension deals in nz? Can i get shocks + springs for 1k, of resonable goodness?

I'd personally go a KYB/King combo for that money -

Any shop can do hast for you.

Thats what I suggested before, my mate had that setup and liked it. Ians also using it in his targa race car. Just ring round a few shops and see if they can do some sort of deal for you. AFAIK there aren't any decent online shops in NZ. unless someone wants to correct me. The M-Tech suspension might cause you problems, when I was looking for shocks they asked I had M-tech susp. I'm pretty sure its similar to standard but just stiffer/lower and with beefier sways but double check with someone anyway.

Gus- I get what your saying about the handling being way nicer, I just don't think its as bad with normal shocks as everyone makes out. I also think its weird none of the people I worked with mentioned the shocks blowing faster at all?

Sorry for the thread hijack. Let us know what you decide to go for and what you think of it.

Mike

Hmm, so what would be involved in some sort of CF heat shield? How much for resin etc? Anybody have any good DIY or how-to sites to have a look at? Kinda keen to have a play with it but don't know much about it.

I hate studying for exams that I hate. I also hate that the weather is awesome while Im stuck inside.

BUT I dont hate the free beer after exams. :beer: