petone

I get what you guys are saying its just that do you really need to go and buy the flashest/hardest suspension money can buy? For most of us our cars are daily drivers that get properly "driven" maybe once a week/fortnight/month? I reckon a kyb/boge shocks with 40mm whatever springs would be all you need for that sort of driving.

First make sure all your bushings, tierods etc are all good then lower it. If these guys are right and its awful then get some shocks. Im assuming that you have M-tech suspension so you might have some stiffer shocks standard.

Sorry if im confusing things for you, Its just $1000 is alot for something you may decide you dont need. Anyway im going to STFU and let these guys talk you into buying some quality gear.

His is an 318iS so it will have a rear bar. I agree with m325i on the springs bit. I used to work at a tire/suspension shop, I have a mate who works for a suspension shop and they only time I have heard about shocks blowing or poor handling is on the internet. Seriously my car has had lowered springs with standard shocks for over 2 years now and its fine. One guy on here races his e30 and is only using king springs and kybs. Eventually I will get sport shocks alround but atm i have better things to spend cash on.

I dunno, maybe i'm just a useless driver and can't tell good susp from bad, that said I still managed to win the welly go-karts round.

I don't think bilstein/koni are worth it unless its a dedicated tracl car.

My 2c

*Goes and hides for disagreeing with 3 goderators*

Theres a couple of different panels, some are carpet while other are just plastic. I'm not sure about the carpet ones but with the plastic you also have to pull up the door seal, there might also be more screws higher up, ie next to the g/box or by just below the ECU.

Badass....

Only issue i had with my M10 was a water pump - was a very reliable car. Handling is good - def add rear sway.

Aside from that just normal e30 things go wrong - would recommend a jappa import over anything NZ new or UK.

Is that just becuase they normally have more options or do you reckon they're more reliable? Mine is NZ new and has virtually no extras but has been so reliable. Agree on rear sway, so worth it for the $50 - $70 it will cost you. Way more stable at higher speeds and when cornering.

Have a look at my post (3rd down) in that Bimmer Trouble thread. Parts are easy as to find and reasonably cheap. The M10 is supposed to be gutless but bullitproof and I'd have to agree with that. Rust would be the biggest concern IMO.

meh reds red to me.

And sorry andy, henna ain't red its orange.

Besides you and Gus can't both cruise round in henna Mtech1 cars. It would be like two chicks wearing the same outfit.

I just fail to understand why you change one letter in a word when all you accomplish is making it more diffiuclt for us mere mortals to read. Ie lyke/like, du/do, ov/of

Oh yeah, SAS > ninja

SAS have way more cool toys than guns, they got heaps of different grenades, heaps of cool techno gadgets and they work real well in a team so even if a ninja got one (extremely unlikely event) the rest of them would demolish the ninja.

Whats the link gonna cost? (Ie fully setup, sensors, TPS, tuning etc) Just curious as I'm thinking about summer project.

Depends what other plans you have for the car. Turbo or 2.7 or something like that then go. link other wise is it really worth $XXX for 20rwkw?

87' 318i

248XXX brought it around 200XXX

Replaced shocks ~ $150

Master cylinder (clutch) $70

Sunroof (rust) $40

Seatbelt ~ $20

Camber correction for rear suspension $200 (only because of lowering)

Other than usual stuff like tires, brakes, oil, filters etc and mods thats it. It just got another warrant a few days ago. What E30 burn? :mosh:

its never quite the same tho getting it back, fix and sell y0

hope its not to bad, and the dude gets his ass peeled.

Hasn't happened to me but my mate felt the same way. Had his project car nicked, found it again but didn't want anything to do with it anymore. So sold it and started again with a new car.

Definatly hope that guys gets decent sentence. So many people I know have had cars/stereos stolen.

Nah it wont, the stacker is just another input source, ie similar to iPod etc. (Atleast thats how the sony ones are, pretty sure it will be the same). I wouldn't bother with a stacker any way. They scratch CD's, take ages to change and are just a general pain. I swapped mine for a MP3/WMA unit and havent looked back.

no plate if anything.

but then pp is better than a normal one

Nah depends what the plate is. If it suits the car its all good but putting your name or some date = waste of money.

Question - I know the spark needs to be advanced as rpm build but does the dizzy do this with that vacuum line or through centrifugal force (like the rev limiter)?

If the vacuum line does the advance as speed builds then you should more top end power.

just live with it.

No, if they are really loud then you should adjust them. Poorly adjusted tappets can either break or harm performance. I can't tell you exact specs (they are in the service manuals) but its not a difficult job, just a bit time consuming.

You should really get a new gasket but if the one on there has been recently replaced i wouldn't bother. Have a look on google, i'm sure theres a few how-tos around

No, I thought the advance/retard was controlled by the vacuum, there should be a line going into a small round metal piece on the side of the dizzy. I think on my mates 320 the line ran from the dizzy to the top/back of the manifold (exhaust side)

Is the car running fine?

I've also got them all if anyone in welly or chch wants a copy on CD.

Jeenyus.

Might be worth about $15 bucks at the scrap merchants.

Just curious, what are thie differences between them? ie what parts are interchangable?

Why the pre F/L preference? Just the looks or something else? Theres a couple of F/L M325 on tardme, one for 8K and the other for 9K

True, not bad then. I haven't delt with private sellers, only online shops and they r@pe you for shipping.

60 buck for shipping sounds extremely cheap, is that what he told you?

No, your talking about trailing arms. This is a sway bar or anti-roll bar. I doubt your 320i has one in the rear. My 318i didn't but I put one just like this on and makes a nice improvement.

Is it hitting the actual metal on the guard? Would a quick whack with a hammer fix it?

I doubt shock would help at all, they only do dampening. Its the 2 mounts on the trailing arm that control the movement. Bent rear arm is possible, what are your wheel alignment specs like?