Carl

Nice to meet you yesterday Kaelib, shame you didn't stick around though, twas a cracker day. Are you ditching the race car Kaelib or selling off spare parts to fund something? Also, what were those brake pads you suggested yesterday?

Tits

Angus is from AC/DC!!!!

I pwn your eyes :mosh: :mosh: :mosh:

Mmmmm, nice arse

Going back to an earlier post, it was said to me that using diesel oil is a good way to clean out an engine, but how would you know if your pipes needed cleaning so to speak?

Sigs should change regularly otherwise have none I'll have a different one next week just to get into your face

If you use the method that Gus just said then use a diesel oil as they have more detergent(s) in them and use that for a week? Or you could just buy and engine flush and use that, STP have one in a blue can, not sure what the BMW centres use but they always charge you for one if you get a service.

Cain, rolling road dynos aren't very precise though are they, and you have to remember that different batches of fuel can vary alot. Are those dynos adjusted, SAE?

Hahahaha, ROTFLMAO, I might have to go for a walk during my lunch break and pay her a visit

A spark plug is a spark plug to me, I have never noticed a difference between brands.Engine flush goes in after you drain the oil, only really need it if you're changing from mineral to synthetic but it's good to use each time if you're putting in expensive oil.

I've been experimenting with the different octanes as I have several chips to play with. What I notice is that the 91 doesn't burn aswell as the 96 and on cold mornings it complains bitterly, the 96 is by far the superior fuel to use and I wouldn't go back to 91 after playing with it.

Oil depends on milage, 10w40 is a safe bet and the brand is a personal preference, i'm just using magnatec. Use a fully synthetic oil if you want the best protection but be prepared to pay for it and make sure you use and engine flush. Bosch or NGK plugs are cool. Edit: Should point out though that if your oil and plugs are due for a change make sure you do all your filters, air, oil, and fuel - unless of course you've got a K&N air filter

At $2000 she's not going to be increasing very much...perhaps she should go for airbags?

Ian has the 3.25 diff that I was running, you could try to wangle that off him as that's pretty long in the legs.

bee in your bonnet Damian? I just joined nzflatemates as I need a new flat, that sux too

If you want to replace the knuckle and o-rings then you'll probably want to detach the driveshaft so you can get at it but you don't have to completely take it out if you really don't want to but if you're going to do the replacement on axle stands there's not much room under there.

Cleaned up because obviously some people have no life and no manners The e34 535 motorsport is not the closest thing to a M5, the e34 540 le is the closest thing to a M5, what Cain has. In regards to the cost of a 535 engine who knows, there's not much of a market for them, especially not here. You'll just have to take your changes on Tradme. Your manual gearbox however is worth something separately as there are people here that wouldn't mind doing the manual conversion, perhaps Chris could do the whole engine and g/box swap, or Andy considering they have a 520 and a 525 respectively???

The overheat light runs off the cat, so it's quite possible that your sensor was just hanging free, who knows, the most important thing is that it's not going to have a detrimental affect.

I've been PM'd a picture from the manual, very interesting, but at any rate the shocks need to come out. So, back to the original question, what shocks are you running?

I got my cat replaced with a coby on each exhaust pipe, I think it was either $160 or $220 all up but can't remember to be honest

What's your engine and what's your exhaust setup, is it a single pipe from the manifold straight through to the rear muffler or is there a cat or something in the middle? If it's too loud for your liking you'll probably have replace the muffler with something better, the droning big bore noise would drive me insane.

As I suggested before, you were always going to have to remove the cat light because you were always going to remove the cat, so go down to the muffler shop and get them to replace your cat with a resonator or muffler...that will increase performance and economy.

Yes, I thought that was the case, but do you need to fully remove the shock or can you just detach the bottom and compress it up and then turn it?

You have ripped off the cat sensor, which you were going to have to do anyway when you went in and got your cat replaced with a resonator. Go into the check panel and remove the LED where the overheat comes up. Walah.