Carl

Yeah, but just make sure Tim's not behind you Stop being lazy

10 degrees lower equates to a 1% gain...if you're running a 318i then at best that'll equate to a 1-2hp gain ASSUMING that you'll be sucking in cooler air.The stock setup is quite good at sucking in cool air, the only time you running into sucking up hot air is if you replace the stock panel filter with a pod and not stick a CAI on it. We hate to burst your bubble but be realistic about what you're going to get, at best it'll be a tonal change, YOU WILL NEVER notice a 1hp gain.

Haha, isn't it interesting that those that have gone through a few cars and came across a BMW have stuck to the BMW's!!!

I can confirm this, when comparing the old belt to the new replacement belt there was a good cm's difference, had to count the teeth on both just to make sure the replacement was right.

Cam belts, before 100k, mine lasted 107k but was on the way out Don't waste your time doing it before 60k, they can last alot longer than that.

$180 for a cam belt change isn't too bad, I remember BMW quoting me $500 for a cam belt and power steering belt If you don't know when it was last done then it'd pay to get it done, the cost of dropping a cam belt is horrendous

Alfa sprints rock, wouldn't mind having a play on the track with one that's been kitted up. My first car was the pulsar for a year then a piazza for 4 years before the trade up to the dirty 30. Had my car for 5 years going on 6 now, best damn car i've ever had albeit the only decent car i've owned!

Oil is a pointless debate. If you want a good oil that will last a long time then you have to go with a fully synthetic oil, such as mobil 1. I just use a semi-synthetic, magnatec 10w-40, as it does the trick personally plus it's easier on the pocket. You'll never notice a difference performance wise between brands. The BMW service centres use castrol and i'm assuming a synthetic one as the distance between service intervals gets to around 15k. If you go for mineral based oil then look to around 10k between changes.

If you're going to crash, might as well go the full distance, loving the jappa pole driver Cain, the environmental influence I can see would've been off the hazy kind

Which head is it, is it the 323 one that's good for the 2.7 build by any chance?

Welcome to the site If you get a 325is then you can't really play with it as it'll spoil it, if you get a normal 325i then you can play with it however you like, my 2c

Dumbarse has to remember that modifying is a % thing, playing with a 3.5 compared to a 1.8 is always going to yield better hp per $Lightening your flywheel may make it rev happy but damn easy to stall. Add the effort required to take the g/box off and back on again I wouldn't bother.

Nice transition, v. good, you get a little gold star

22 and not getting any prettier

I just bought some off ebay, abs plastic instead of fibreglass so he'll be selling them regularly i'd imagine, 20 squid + freight.

Environmental factors in those crashes??? If only those pictures would actually have an affect on people

Sounds like you know what you want and have a good picture in your head so just go ahead and do it. Couple of questions, where are you going to source an "is" front lip from and where have you sourced the shadow tape you speak of. Cheers

Man you people are scathing, this thread needs a chill pill To me it actually looks to be a fairly straight and tidy car, sure it's lowered, but it's not that low And what's with all the chromie hate, they're not that bad, better than steelies IMO

Haha, ouch Given i've tried both 14" and 15" tyres on mine I really can't say the rim size makes anywhere as much difference as the rubber itself. The barum 15" I had had a side wall so soft it made them no better than 14". These direzzas are far far far superior, don't think they come in 14"...

Haha, we had a bomb scare this morning in our CBD, should've seen all the workers hanging out on the baclonies waiting for an explosion...sadly they just x-rayed it and decided to just opening it manually

Let's not confuse this thread, it'll just lead to some unloving action. Fact is, cars can't be categorized so easily nowadays.

Open up your bonnet, look around the strut towers in the engine bay for a little black sticker with silver writing, should read something like:Zinoberrot Hellrot Gletschlerblau-metalic Delphingrau Diamanteschwarz Alpinweiss Lachsilber ...

Someone get a mop

Just go for the K&N panel filter and save yourself the burn

Tim = bumpstop325 Let's just say that should you lower your car you should correctly match the shocks