tcbaurpower

I have used knead it before... it works for awhile at slowing the leak however the road vibration and speed bumps soon knocked it around and loosened it up. I have an e30 which came with a aluminium patch welded over a crack in its sump.

Often other people have commented that bmw brakes seem lack luster. However I know they work as expected when they are really needed.

Anyone know if it will be on Free TV this year?

Ok, narrowing down the list. If it isnt the bulbs and it isnt the switch, fuse or relay then the wiring is seeming more likely. Follow the wiring and look for any damage, crimping, discolouring and even heat/smoke when you have them turned on. I have had buzzing before and am sure it was when the wires were shorting. The negative is another area to check, it can be fixed tight and still cause issues if the connection surface isnt clean enough.

My indicator that was fault was the side indicator, and have had issues with the front too. Try unplugging one or both so you can find which one is the problem.

Might be obvious but did you check the light bulb didnt blow?? Swap it to the left to check maybe. I have had similar issues in the past and it was a the plastic connector was stuffed and didnt complete the circuit properly. I would plug it back in but after a few good jolts it might come loose and again the indicator would stop working. Edit: I think the connector was so buggered the wiring was touching.

I recommend the Sony A33, which you can get for your budget, and is a good DSLR base. You can buy the camera body only then find a suitable lense, secondhand to reduce cost if need be. You will then have endless models and makers of lenses to choose from and find the one you want.

For a 318 or 320 non modified car then the factory 45mm setup is perfect. If however you have replaced the engine with a M20B25 then 51mm would be the easiest upgrade to compensate for the extra weight. Also you may need to consider the likes of clearance for wheels.

Yes, all up that cost me $0... just lost my evening lying under a car...

On the e30 I replaced all front ball joints and tie rods. While doing so noticed a cracked engine mount ... removed it to find one bolt snapped off flush ... removed said bolt and replaced engine mount. The cracked engine mount had let the engine twist far enough it cracked the exhaust connection to the manifold... removed exhaust, welded and installed. Replaced spark plugs, new vacuum lines, air intake boot and various other 20 year old parts. Runs alot better now... and all I set out to do was the ball joints. On the e28 it started to vibrate rather bad under acceleration. When I got it home I found it was missing the front two diff bolts of course why not?? But it was the third bolt coming loose that caused the damage, the drive shalf had dropped enough to hit the rear subframe as it bounced along (it passes through the sub frame) and had destroyed the rubber centre donut so it was banging around alot. So I replace the missing bolts, tighten everything up and replaced the drive shaft. And it is better than before, which I beleive would indicate the front bolts have been missing for awhile. Well thats all for now. Might be worth checking these areas on your cars.

If someone was to bring a radiator could it be driven away?, the engine is in the car?

RIP JR.

Bugger mate. I know where your car is parked, probably drove passed it. I will keep an eye out for the kit.

I have replaced one of these before. Not alot from BMW brand new.

Do the e30 flaps fit?

If two door would be interested in the black door sills that hold the carpet down.. Mint condition tho no cracks or deep scratches. Dont mind scrubing the 20years of grime off.

e28 535i 1985 auto. Hi. On the way to work today my car started to hesitate on take off. Once it got rolling it took off and went normally except when I went to speed up it hesitated again. What could have caused this? Cheers.

Hey I have the rails from a 84 320i if they were all the same for PFL and FL. They are still in my parts car and I dont need them give me an offer. Cheers.

Hey Matt. I have the unit, it is the same as in the picture for number 3. The number on it doesnt seem to be a part number tho. Let me know if you still need it. Cheers Adam.

I should have one, I have the fuse box from an 87 e28. Will check it tonight.

I have these parts, pm sent.

Done Congrats too.

Bashing a smaller socket on is the best way I have found. Other options could be: weld a bolt on the end, use a chisel and hammer see if you can break it. (can be done to lock nuts)

Some advice on the repairs. 2: To limit the chance of stripping the nuts on the metal brake lines you can purchace a pipe spanner I have just the one which I used for this exact situation. Also been informed and read that heating up the joint also helps, using a butane torch. 3: Easy to replace a ball joint, (edit: wrong ball joint lol). (edit: not certain however. You can buy a ball joint splitter from the parts stores and makes this a quick job (after using it on a tie rod ball joint), well worth it.) Take care while under the car.

How did you go mitch? In the past if a bolt is refusing to move and then gets to rounded for that sized socket I would hammer on a smaller sized socket. Works every time. Note however the hammered socket can be ruined with this process.