JiB

I wouldn't say that setup would be "just" standard. A friend's Japanese Spec DC5R headers (TODA) + intake (GruppeM) + exhuast (BYS) + kpro (2000cc Integra Type R) managed circa 220whp with that setup! Mine was standard Japanese Spec (220bhp) and the difference in power was immense! His power band was solid from 4000rpm all the way the redline (8,500 rpm). So in my opinion that wouldn't really be a fair, more like comparing a turbo'd M20 or something. (yes the poor gains on BMWs from bolt-on modification shocked me initially ) What's the difference between Jappa's and German cars? Or British for that matter? Well, it hurts me to see Type R's with big wheels and flashy bits. Contrary to popular belief they are race bred and have history! EDIT: 1.8L Integra, Porsche, BMW M3 Endurance....pretty funny ending

I'd agree on that, the only downside of JZ motors is the weight...though, they're lighter than RB's (If one were made of money and a little bit crazy, BMW's N54 would probably be a pretty choice motor - light and a twin turbo'd six) Hmm, I'd probably go the NA route with either a I4 or V6. Either Honda's F20C or Toyota's BEAMS 3SGE. Both come with pretty slick 6spds The problem is then finding a class that'd allow a Jap powered BMW to race . I could not possibly justify an S14, $10,000+ for just the motor is crazy money..Especially when that would be close to the total price of 3SGE+installation! But, I am a student, and a poor one. Therefore, my M20 will do for now And I should keep reminding myself that this is a BUDGET race car

Topping up the tank is debatable. A full tank is going to weigh more than half a tank. It depends if you go past petrol stations often or not. If they are out of the way then perhaps filling it to the brim would be more economical. Also, If you are letting your car warm up stationary - you will be using x litres of petrol per 0 km. Just drive the car. (Says so in the BMW manual too!)

If you're facing the diff from the back of the car, there should be a little metal tab attached to the diff on the left (passenger) side of the car. EDIT: Look for the S on the little tab to tell if it's an LSD. Or just jack up the car and spin one wheel. If the other goes in the same direction you should have an lsd.

Ditto! Very interested. Are you going to use the ZF box or the Getrag? Converting to E36 steering rack while you're at it?

Lol, Monza performance gear can be really shocking sometimes...I've been thinking of having a look in the standard airbox and seeing if I can gut it as a cheap cold air box. Especially seeing BMW parts catalogue calls it a "intake muffler" If I were to do those modifications I wouldn't be using the M20...I just can't justify the costs on such small gains Which was why I asked about intake and exhaust as they're faily cheap. ...Hmm, maybe I'll leave it completely stock power-wise...see what the 315,000km M20 can do. (Read as: My excuse for my slowness )

....Looks like I opened a can of worms... I was only trying to say that all cars have merits, and the fanboy/chromey culture is apparent in all marques. So I thought it unfair that Honda's get all the blame as most of the Honda enthusiasts I have met are the opposite of the stereotype and genuinely passionate about motorsport! We all have our opinions, and we are definitely entitled to them. But as with all opinions we I reckon we should see them as opinions. They may not be the only one out there and they may be based on inaccurate information. Anyway...moving on EDIT: Excuse my abysmal grammar.

[Off-Topic] My 100% standard Honda was quicker than most 3.0L bmws (yes, even annoyed non-Evo E36's) Telepathically quick steering, 4pot Brembos, and one of the best 6-speeds I've driven in my short life. All factory spec'd from Honda. To this day I still don't really know why people keep bagging Hondas? ....I guess it also did come with a picnic table for a rear wing [/off topic] ....Back on topic, it is refreshing to engage in a forum where basic grammar is compulsory and member decorum is of a fairly high standard. I think it was a brave move by moderators to ban the, uh, miscreants

CAI = Cold Air Intake. Sorry. I'm too stingy to spend money on stuff that is probably negligable and would mean that I need earplugs to drive. Rather than spend $2500+ doing IHE+tune, I'd rather save up for a better motor. No offense but the M20 isn't exactly a a great base! ....perhaps I have been spoilt by Japanese motors

Rims are never quite what they're meant to be. For example, my Advan RG's are spec'd at 16x7.5 but measuring from edge to edge they are just over 8"! Unfortunately, 14" basketweaves don't fetch very much...maybe $200? And bottlecaps are just about free Can't get rid of them

So I guess the verdict is there's not much point doing CAI and Exhuast unless accompanied by headers and a chip?

The bottle caps should say 14x6JJ or something similar on them? Should be able to tell instead of measuring

I'm just wondering if there is any point doing intake and exhaust on a standard cam/ECU M20B25. I don't really see a Pod+CAI improving things very much..The noise would probably make it sounds faster though As far as I can see the intake is pretty good as is, even has a factory velocity stack of some kind, the exhaust doesn't look too bad either...it's the small bore 4 bolt system dual pipe right through. The only significant gains to be had (from what I can see) is from the headers, but this is problematic with steering column in the way. Not to mention it is cost prohibitive, especially if I/H/E is done then a tune of some kind would be necessary and unfortunately PFL Motronic system isn't very flexible

If an M42 is fitted and turbo'd, would it still be eligible for BMW Open Class? Because '02 chassis came with a factory turbo model? Off topic, I don't have much respect for 3S motors, but ideally a BEAMS unit with dual vvti would be an ideal unit as it would come packaged with the very capable 6 speed out of the Altezza. The vvti is almost self contained if I remember correctly, so there wouldn't be too major hassles. Not to mention crashed Altezza RS200's can be bought on the cheap from Japan

Contrary to pretty much everything on the internet , turns out one wire of the reverse light plug is a 12V supply (green/black) and that needed to have blue/yellow spliced into it. This way you can keep your reverse lights (and remove a metric buttload of wires).

We have just completed a manual conversion on a PFL '86 325i coupe using a getrag 260. What wires do I need to jump to get my car to start without the auto shifter plugged in? Seems that the reverse light switch needs to be plugged in for the car to start too... I can't seem to find anything on google Help please!

I've been offered a MC off a '88 750i for $100...still $100 and I'm a tight arse Especially for unknown condition and not even sure it'd fit! Braided lines can be/are covered by an Authority Card which I am in the very slow (read procrastinating/Uni) process of getting, so isn't THAT unfeasible...except my wallet may go into shock, haha. As for pads, I reckon EBC Yellows on OEM/Brembo blanks (as recommended by Ernst) is the go. Opinions? edit: hybrid's wilwoods are so sweet But totally unnecessary for me..but soooo choice!

In my opinion, $19k seems like a lot considering we got our E46 328i, immaculate, NZ New, full service history, full optioned (full leather, steptronic, electric everything, motorsport kit, multifunction, etc, etc) for $13k! For a 318i to be worth 19k it would have to be quite something! The 318's aren't that fuel efficient and they struggle with moving the bulk of the E46, I can think of much better value daily drivers. My 2c would be hunt around!

E32 MC off 750iL is a 25mm one that apparently bolts on and works superbly. Also the M3's 23mm, but according to the internets it's not that much difference. Ie..still poos. I miss my Brembos I should have a moment of insanity that results in Wilwood superlites, Goodridge lines and a 1" MC installed edit: Gross understatement!

We broke the timing lug off our modified flywheel, and the car doesn't have spark as a result. Chalk another problem up with the conversion! Anyone in Auckland have one?

Found

I've already got a set, and I wouldn't pay $600 for basketweaves. The reason I'm shopping again is I find the weaves to be ridiculously heavy Guess it doesn't help that I have some 16x7.5's sitting in my shed that weigh MUCH less but in the wrong stud pattern

It's only been a couple of hours man! Itchy itchy hands you have The internets tell me that an X-Brace is the way to go, and strut brace doesn't do anything?

I'm guessing it would be around the same price as a E36M3 rack..which is $$$ from what I've heard.

I was too slow off the mark to buy ashmill's rims, any others out there?