JiB

Rota home page best I could do. Regamaster Evo copies.

I'm talking to the Maxim-wheels rep that imports them for nzHondas, they are the distributors for Australia and New Zealand if I'm not mistaken. They import straight from PAWI (Indonesia) where they are manufactored. He is finding prices for the low offset stuff at the moment as the majority of the Rota wheels that come into New Zealand are for FWD offset. I have also asked if a group buy option is available as they have a 15x7 wheel in ET20 that the E30 boys may be interested in. 16x8 ET20 is also available which might foul on 51mm strut housings as they reduce strut clearance by a good 10mm compared to 14" bottlecaps.

I found this very informative. Click here for guide Click on the link and download "E36 Rack Conversion Steering Coupling" .zip file. Comes with pictures and everything! EDIT: tire beat me to it.

What about some Rota wheels? They have started a Euro line alongside their more JDM looking wheels. Am currently investigating some that they make in 4x100 ET20. PM me if you're interested.

Sometimes for clearance, a lot of it is down to spoke design. e.g. ET20 minilights 15x6.5 didn't clear my E30's calipers, whereas the oem 14x6 ET35 did.

oops, sorry. I have an open diff 3.62 in my E30. After a LSD. first post edited.

I pulled the trim apart. Was very straight forward, no dramas (compared to the my E30 anyway ) . The connections were all connected, unplugged them to give them a quick wipe with a dry cloth. Put everything back together. ....And mysteriously it starts working! Any idea what it might have been? I'm baffled! P.S. Thanks for the suggestion hybrid

Any one have something ~$750 for sale?

The 12V socket in the "ashtray" (we have the non-smoker car pack) is not working. I've checked the fuse (#47 according to the little helpful white sheet). I've also tried another fuse, and cleaning out the socket with a dry cloth. But nothing seems to be working... Just wondering if there is anything thing else to try before I try removing the trim to have a look...(um, how does one do that? I'm assuming the gear gaitor to start with? Got the 5speed auto with leather boot) Help please?

Make sure your 12V socket works Also power steering pump is prone to leaking...that's all that's wrong with our car Also maybe check diff bushes.

I got two sets. how much you wanna pay?

+1 What kind of 325 was it? E30/E36/E46?

M20's tend to mess themselves quite badly in the head if overheated. And if thrashed whilst the tappets are out they can drop valves. Ernst at Bavarian has some pretty awesome pistons around the place Other than that, they are pretty robust...mine's well over 300,000km's albeit in 2.5L form in a 325i not a 320i. This is a personal thing but I don't like working on Subaru's, have two heads in the most awkward places and because of that they are overly complex. The plus side is the motor has more torque than an equvalent conventional inline motor and is smaller in physical size enabling better weight distribution. I especially respect their symmetry in terms of powertrain layout, which is awesome in my opinion as I'm a weight distribution and balance geek I admire both marques in their approaches to acheiving performance, my preference is BMW....because I like Natural Aspiration, FR drivetrains, and character (which I must admit is perhaps not as strong in an E30 as I'd like). That said, if there was a lightweight FR VTEC Honda/VVTi Toyota/VVL Nissan/Vanos BMW that was in my price range, I'd be driving that. The badge that's on a vehicle doesn't really bother me. I have meandered off topic, but perhaps you should express more clearly - what is it you want out of a car? Or if we are comparing the cars, I don't even think they should be compared? One is a luxury sports coupe. The other is a WRC based machine, with precious few creature comforts. EDIT: In the ten minutes it took me to write this novel length post, you've basically posted a far more concise version

I think the STi would be faster, it's easier to drive on the limit, and the motor isn't as peaky as the M3's. Basically a monkey can drive an STi quickly, and if we're comparing normal average Joe drivers like you and me, the STi will be quicker, especially in difficult conditions. But maybe slightly slower in a straight line because of drivetrain loss? Sti Type R's have DCCD system and are pretty lightweight despite the 4WD drivetrain so their limits are very high with a good suspension and tyre setup. IMHO: If you wanted to build a car just to go quick, BMW is not the Marque to choose. Performance per $ wise, a Lancer Evolution or Subaru STi would be hard to beat. My 2c Depends entirely on what your friend wants in a car. BMW's in general offer a better and more involved driving experience, but there are cheaper ways to go quick.

Fair enough, but I'm in no rush to sell? $100 and it's yours. Will have to confirm that there isn't any cracks.

As above. Want $350.

Will consider offers for whole car. Still has M20B23 in it. Disk brake rear end. No flywheel or g/box.

As above. Out of a E30 323i Coupe. Offers.

As above. Off a E30 323i Coupe. $150 ono

As above. Pic here http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=144620838

Carpet, front and rear. Free to good home, otherwise it's going in the bin. Could do with a serious clean.

I'm not a series competitor. But from what the internets tell me, harder rubber instead of nylon or polyurethane is better for a street car. Lasts longer, and you don't get you're fillings shaken out. Toyota Racing Development, Mugen, etc use hard rubber for uprated mounts in street applications rather than polyurethane replacements. Not sure bout ACS, or Hartage? Have had uprated engine mounts (ESMM) and a torque damper in a street car for a short period, came to the point where I was looking at raising the idle to make it bearable in traffic! (thankfully was offered good money to get rid of them!) So just a warning! The uprated mounts and torque damper resulted in huge improvement in the throttle response and made the car feel more "together". So if you want to uprate the way I went was inserts, where polyurethane sleeves or inserts are put around/in the factory mounts. They were cheap too! I don't think the E30 chassis is stiff enough for a torque damper, but Ernst @ Bavarian Motors reckons the box section under the windscreen and top of the firewall is very stiff. So maybe you could adapt one to fit? my 2c

I think there was one on sale on trademe for less than $100?

hi, would it be a large case or a medium case LSD? And what is the ratio? cheers

Oh, bugger. Was after a medium case. Already have a 3.64....two even! Thanks anyway