Jacko

Can anyone recommend me a painter in Auckland to throw some Phoenix Yellow at four calipers, ideally in a high temp flavour. Calipers will be stripped and media blasted.

Centric piston, 1 piece ali (made in Canada aye) The centric dust covers are grey silicon Vs OEM black nitrile, which is also promising.

Thats a new one Wonder if its been overfilled or something in the past, leading it to blow all the foofs out. Edit - that same loom goes around to one of the vanos solenoids...

The two genuine ones that have been sitting in my parts stash measure 10.4 ohm each.

Ive had amazon ones in the 330 for over a year without fault, bought them for parts cannon troubleshooting, wasnt them.... just left them in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WK32Y3/ref=pe_1861300_290303380_em_1p_0_ti

Ive fixed one by cleaning an exhaust solenoid, 2m job to pull em out.

Seals on these were still fine, dust covers were destroyed and so were the ceramics. Apparently they suck on track with stock pistons which fail as soon as you put a few heavy heat cycles in them..but are fine with solid pistons. I saw a few companies do high temp silicon dust covers, which take the heat but implode on contact with brake fluid Plenty of 130 race cars are running the old style brembos without issue (with one piece pistons). All these OEM BBK calipers go for stupid money in NZ, E's or F's, I swear some wreckers recoup the price of the car they purchased just by selling the calipers. I got these for cheap... The other issue with the F series calipers is there isnt really an option for the rear end, trimming the pads and running an E39 M5 rotor apparently works... but doesnt seem ideal. I doubt the pistons I have coming are ceramic/two piece, Id be impressed if they were for $10 each

FYI, pistons are also listed on rockauto.com, pretty sure they are centric branded as well, similar pricing (cheap). Will be interesting to see how they are constructed - chrome steel+ceramic like OEM, or all stainless like ($500USD) Race Brakes, or aluminium like ($400USD) Stoptechs...

FATWGN very clean E36 328 touring in (boston?) green going through takanini roadworks. Looked good.

Yeah, its not worth saving $20 for something that takes hours and many creative words to replace

Another day, another n52 rocker cover. My e91 330 this time, its actually a pretty cruisy job when everythings not pre-fuct. Check out #4 plug tube.. Well lubricated (no misfire..)

Stupid tax rules are about all that has been achieved. Payday filing stupidity has just resulted in me not paying myself, as it was best option.

Picked up a Ryobi 50L 2hp unit, found under shelf at bunnings, complete with a few tools in the box, for $229... pretty sure it was miss-priced (had no tag etc!).. but didnt want to pull on that thread so took it straight to check out and walked out door

Look to have been sitting around awhile, surface rust on rotors, but they cant have been on car long. No perceivable lip on rotors, pads have plenty of meat. Front rotors are two piece so likely genuine, pads are all brembo. $50 or a box of beers, seems like a waste to scrap em, pick up only.

I came across a big table awhile back that listed common pads/rotors and the compatibility between them, it was in german and done by some science guy... and now I cant find it. Was to do with the crystalline structure of the rotor, and combined with hard pad materials, resulted in poor transfer of the pad material into the rotors pores if that structure was particularly dense. I think Glenns point is that he only recommends ATE + ATE, as its guaranteed to work, anything else and its luck.

Never tried youshop... but its on the way to oregon for $10... Which seems like a better deal. Lady on the chat support couldnt understand why I thought $1600usd was unreasonable.

Hmm

Its possible to get metallurgy of the rotors and pads incompatible, so the pads dont correctly bed in to the rotors, and leave uneven deposits, which leads to crazy weird runouts/squeeling/sadness. If you want good "stock" brakes run ATE rotors and pads, guaranteed to work. Mixing and matching could result in an expensive mess. Im currently looking at rotors and pads for my BMWP/135i setup, stoptech rotors and pads are looking good (ATE dont make rear rotors to suit) and are priced reasonably.

Had a look around at his E91s when hunting for one, lots of oil leaks and green coolant.. think they do maintenance in house Was one of the less slimey dealers though.

Russian guy in penrose?

I wouldnt touch cheap brembo rotors after the nightmare I had with them, 1st set rusted in a week and ran out all kinds of crazy (with a proper bed in). Replaced with a second set, and same thing instant heavy rust, and crazy shuddering/squeeling/nastiness. It was genuinely scary to use the brakes and was barely drivable. Glenn stuck some ATE units on (From BMW workshop parts from memory, price wasnt bad) 30,000km later they still look and work mint.

S65,6 speed manual, M3 flares, E9x m3 suspension, paint it carbon black on some nice staggered 18s. keep the wool seat covers.

Try take it to BM workshop, it likely has a duff sensor or something. Ive seen it before where reseting the adapted map to default solves the problem temporarily.

Im on the hunt for the same, lemme know if you find a good source. My E91 is all wired up for it, just no bar.

Im in need of a 240V compressor, something that just works and can spit out enough air for occasional home gamer Have a metric shed load of air tools from previous life, drills/diegrinders/hammers etc. Its not going to get a daily use, so dont want to blow a lot of cash on it, something thats on wheels so I can throw it outside the shed when being used, and stored inside. Any suggestions?