Jacko

I have no experience with monroes, so cant say sorry. My 330 is running Bilstein B4 touring shocks, and its noticeably less harsh and crashy than old but shagged OEM shocks on factory msport springs. They were $200ish NZ a corner delivered.

realoem.com is your friend I wouldnt bother putting in old shocks (40k and 12 years old?) . Replacements, at OEM or better spec, arent expensive (fcpeuro etc)

I went from Assy3s to RE003s recently. Assy 3s are WAY quieter and actually feel better on the pointy end than Re003s, not that RE003s are bad just that the F1s felt better, like they are pointing where you want. Dry grip, probably very similar, hard to quantify. F1s are also EPIC in the wet, you can lean on them hard without fear as they feel very sure footed and progressive. RE003s are also much cheaper.

Eagle F1 assy 3s, great all round.

If you want a manual 130, hold out for one, jump on the 130 faceballs group. They do come up for sale in nice spec in NZ. As someone who owns an auto 330 and a manual 130, they are very different cars despite sharing many parts.

Carista etc work fine.

Unfortunately, the only thing appropriate, an illuminated C&B, is not available.

Most of the front suspension parts are pretty cheap to be fair, jack it up, have a yank around. The front suspension is pretty simple (back ends complex) so its likely something very obvious and not requiring a rocket surgeon to diagnose.

Momo make tyres!? Also... wow, tasteful.

Japanese import thing is usual, want fancy whiz bang flashing light headunit and to retain factory canbus headunit controls without errors. Its a hodgepodge fix, but common.

Jump on the google, there are a few vids of how to do it through the dash. Also scroll through the service menu to ensure its something thats actually been done, its not just oil changes that are tracked.

And still, a lot of car for $6-7k. Its stupid what the prices are falling too at the moment, surely they cant get much lower. I paid 12 for my E91 330, UK import Msport and well spec'd 18 months ago

Actually saw that parked up in Rotorua a few days ago, looks pretty decent in person.

Pretty interesting -

Sold.

2x 130s. If one breaks, just bust the other out, and avoid the whole average as hell generic 2l box on wheels situation.

Yup still here

I have a Carly, your welcome to give it ago if you wish. It may work, it may melt everything

2 x new BMW Supras, covered in white plastic wrap ( disguisey rather than shipping ) on the back of the truck on the motorway...

Yeah too much money for low spec. Dont worry about the waterpump, its an easy job and in the grand scheme of things not even particularly pricey (the cost of 2 mid range tyres..) Pretty amazingly reliable for what they do to be fair

Its not all bad, means they can do things like this.

Thanks heaps for you help Pramod, life saver, I was about to torch the fecking thing Ended up being a butchered coding from Carly app, reflash to stock by @promo via the magic of the interwebs and I have tail lights that behave themselves now.

Yeah I stumbled over that on my googling for WTF, carly didnt throw any errors when I did screw with it. I awhile ago I was screwing with LED bulbs, and turned off the warnings etc using carly, have since gone back to standard bulbs and didnt turn the warnings back on. No idea if this issue is related though ? Now its back to as default as can remember, unfortunately carly seems to have lost all the backups from months ago (android update, carly update? )

Interesting, I got a jump a few a weeks ago due to dead starter. Ill have a read up about flashing it, have tool32 on laptop but have never used it.

Tested the snot out of FRM light functions, and then reset the FRM (with ISTA+) all looked fine apart from a null value being given for tail light dimming. Looking over the wiring diagram its purely the FRM that controls voltage to the tail light, there is no relay or the like in the way. Im wondering if Carly has caused some madness with the coding of the FRM now. Pulled apart the tailgate too see if was something like the flexible section causing a break/chaffing. Nothing. It cant be a ground, Ive checked them all (and it doesnt make sense anyway, the lights all work, just the tail lights when on are at the wrong brightness) F*(^*(King BMW, who would buy one of these things. Whats wrong with good old fashioned wires and switches ?