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Everything posted by Jacko
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Whomever is in charge of kidney grills at BMW needs a slap.
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Drive to the Tron and see Tim at TTT Auto in Te Rapa, he deals in welding porn. Its not Auckland, but only 40m away.
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Absolute junk, their marketing campaign is next level though, its all over social media with the "silicon valley drone expert" nonsense, its all bollocks. Chinese factory with about four different brands of the same $50 toy, that'll all end up in the bin about 2 hours after opening the box Have a look on Ali express etc for Mavic Clones and you'll find them for peanuts. The way DJI market their things, and their target market, means that the "old" models devalue rapidly. If you want something Mavic sized and an impressive thing for the size/price, the old Mavic 1s you can find for pretty cheap secondhand on trademe and they are much better quality than the aliexpress/banggood/goodluckbuy ripoffs. Also checkout Dronedepot in ponsonby, Grant there is a good guy and regularly sells refurbished/secondhand DJI gear at good prices (and with a warranty).
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Chasing drift cars with a miniquad has become a bit cliche, there are some awesome pilots out there though (way beyond my skill levels!)
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VHT dont do phoenix yellow, I spoke to Shanes automotive paints, who say they can do me an enamel and an etch primer for a pretty good price... I called around a few auto paint sprayers and none were interested, might just end up spraying them myself. Will need a clear over the BMW Performance stickers.
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Can anyone recommend me a painter in Auckland to throw some Phoenix Yellow at four calipers, ideally in a high temp flavour. Calipers will be stripped and media blasted.
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Centric piston, 1 piece ali (made in Canada aye) The centric dust covers are grey silicon Vs OEM black nitrile, which is also promising.
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FIXED - More oil leaking! Did I just blow another CCV?
Jacko replied to 325_driver's topic in Maintenance
Thats a new one Wonder if its been overfilled or something in the past, leading it to blow all the foofs out. Edit - that same loom goes around to one of the vanos solenoids... -
The two genuine ones that have been sitting in my parts stash measure 10.4 ohm each.
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Ive had amazon ones in the 330 for over a year without fault, bought them for parts cannon troubleshooting, wasnt them.... just left them in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WK32Y3/ref=pe_1861300_290303380_em_1p_0_ti
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Ive fixed one by cleaning an exhaust solenoid, 2m job to pull em out.
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Seals on these were still fine, dust covers were destroyed and so were the ceramics. Apparently they suck on track with stock pistons which fail as soon as you put a few heavy heat cycles in them..but are fine with solid pistons. I saw a few companies do high temp silicon dust covers, which take the heat but implode on contact with brake fluid Plenty of 130 race cars are running the old style brembos without issue (with one piece pistons). All these OEM BBK calipers go for stupid money in NZ, E's or F's, I swear some wreckers recoup the price of the car they purchased just by selling the calipers. I got these for cheap... The other issue with the F series calipers is there isnt really an option for the rear end, trimming the pads and running an E39 M5 rotor apparently works... but doesnt seem ideal. I doubt the pistons I have coming are ceramic/two piece, Id be impressed if they were for $10 each
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FYI, pistons are also listed on rockauto.com, pretty sure they are centric branded as well, similar pricing (cheap). Will be interesting to see how they are constructed - chrome steel+ceramic like OEM, or all stainless like ($500USD) Race Brakes, or aluminium like ($400USD) Stoptechs...
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FATWGN very clean E36 328 touring in (boston?) green going through takanini roadworks. Looked good.
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Yeah, its not worth saving $20 for something that takes hours and many creative words to replace
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Another day, another n52 rocker cover. My e91 330 this time, its actually a pretty cruisy job when everythings not pre-fuct. Check out #4 plug tube.. Well lubricated (no misfire..)
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Stupid tax rules are about all that has been achieved. Payday filing stupidity has just resulted in me not paying myself, as it was best option.
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Picked up a Ryobi 50L 2hp unit, found under shelf at bunnings, complete with a few tools in the box, for $229... pretty sure it was miss-priced (had no tag etc!).. but didnt want to pull on that thread so took it straight to check out and walked out door
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Look to have been sitting around awhile, surface rust on rotors, but they cant have been on car long. No perceivable lip on rotors, pads have plenty of meat. Front rotors are two piece so likely genuine, pads are all brembo. $50 or a box of beers, seems like a waste to scrap em, pick up only.
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I came across a big table awhile back that listed common pads/rotors and the compatibility between them, it was in german and done by some science guy... and now I cant find it. Was to do with the crystalline structure of the rotor, and combined with hard pad materials, resulted in poor transfer of the pad material into the rotors pores if that structure was particularly dense. I think Glenns point is that he only recommends ATE + ATE, as its guaranteed to work, anything else and its luck.
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Never tried youshop... but its on the way to oregon for $10... Which seems like a better deal. Lady on the chat support couldnt understand why I thought $1600usd was unreasonable.
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Hmm
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Its possible to get metallurgy of the rotors and pads incompatible, so the pads dont correctly bed in to the rotors, and leave uneven deposits, which leads to crazy weird runouts/squeeling/sadness. If you want good "stock" brakes run ATE rotors and pads, guaranteed to work. Mixing and matching could result in an expensive mess. Im currently looking at rotors and pads for my BMWP/135i setup, stoptech rotors and pads are looking good (ATE dont make rear rotors to suit) and are priced reasonably.