Jacko

Ive got use to it to be fair, but then I go drive a few other 1 and 3s, and the difference is night and day. They should have come from the factory with the B1 dampener/spring rates. Its totally worth it, quaife changes the car. With the DSC enabled, pushing the limits with a stock 130 results in the dash flashing lights and sadness, whereas with the quaife its something more akin to a "track mode", all the nannies are still on but because the wheel speed doesnt differ like an open diff ,the point where nanny steps in is much higher as shes oblivious to the fun being had. DTC just pushes the limits out further, and off is full fun mode Its way more tractable off the line (Can get .5s faster than BMWs 0-60 numbers, on a car with 260,000km on clock and no "performance" mods), way more predictable at the limits, and doesnt skip and crash around the place on NZ's shitty B roads. Got a VTNZ wof on it the other day, tech thought the odo was wrong or dash had been changed out.

Managed to damage the factory tint on inside of hatch glass of the 130, hauling around 40kg of spray drone..Has anyone had the rear tint replaced? Im hesitant to get it removed/replaced due to the chance of the demisting element getting damaged. Is this still a thing on "modern" cars with modern tints?

Always, always, disconnect the battery. Do you have ISTA? Id be going over every electrical connector thats been disturbed and checking its properly seated. I doubt a coil has been killed, and it likely wouldnt result in that failure mode, however there is a bunch of stuff that could have been spiked.

Was the battery connected??!

Do you have a scanner? If not, scroll through the "check" on the OBD menu. Hold the button in, and it will display a code. Something will be logged as not working.

Hmm, could be anything, doubt its that though. Plug scanner in and see what its says is wrong.

You mean the difficult one at the sump? It'll make a snap when its on correctly, and it wont pull off without releasing the tabs.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/angle-connector-with-heating-element/11618638014/ - that what your pointing at? Worst case, if it doesnt get connection is the heating circuit for it doesnt work, I have no idea if the DME has some sort of impedance checking for that circuit or not.

Thats the factory earth strap location. The throttle body looks normal, push it open and give it a wipe out they normally collect black grime around the sealing area. All it does on the N52 is control idle and if it goes into limp mode on valvetronic failure.

Heater elements, no idea why they're needed... but apparently they are The aircon fitting tool should work, it presses up on the centre, worked fine on the couple Ive pulled apart.

The aircon tool I linked too awhile back Those plugs, nope, they're all in parallel

ooohh.. a speedster!

Its actually a staple, the rest of the cover must have been stapled to it at somepoint... also note next to the self tapper, the old self tapper which must have been rounded out.. and then had the head cut off

Not really. Just another one of the umpteen squillion people who go to a car dealer and buy a car, and expect to be "fully serviced" and good to go. Any PPE would have flagged it on any of the 100s of e90/N52 common problems, of which this one has them all. Big problem with these cars is the price of fixing them, even for basic stuff the price of parts is often 1/4 the price the paid for the car... which many arent prepared for. This thing has had a lot of work done on it by a "real" professional mechanic, new starter motor and water pump for sure, and the butchery that was left by them is amazing (the intake manifold is siliconed to the head... I guess they didnt replace the O rings...). The waterpump is "new" as it has "new" written on it in wreckers pen, however the thermostat is original and throwing errors. Apparently the oil was "topped up" by the same mechanic, I guess they didnt realise the bar graph on the dash represents 1 litre, and not 6.. Really reinforces the crazyness of buying a car based how many numbers are on the odo, it means jack sh*t

Desperate times call for desperate measures. Hacked out all the rot with a dremel, coils now fit... Hopefully it lasts another round! Patient survived surgery, no oil leaks from the new gaskets... Valvetronic limits reset, and discovered it has 91 octane in the tank after reseting the DME adaptations and trying to accelerate.. Can literally feel the DME recoiling in horror as it pulls timing to stop detonation.. Also dumped 8 litres of crude out of the sump, may explain the oil leaks...

Need it now unfortunately... Even new would be coming from Malaysia. Looks like this one is getting Macgyvered If it was my car id be ordering a new replacment from fcp etc, but that'd be 1/4 the value of this 325.. makes no sense.

None ive called, few dont want to pull apart engines. Im about to bust the dremel out and hack the corrosion out of this one.. it might last another round. $989+gst new....

Bump, anyone? They should all the be same across all "silver top" N52s (circa pre 07), 125/130/323/325/330/530 etc.

Interesting, N52 speed holes...

Anyone got one?, need one quick!

This is one of the better thread derailments in recent memory To the OP, stop driving a turbo six. Take the train. But only if its got good occupancy, is locally assembled, the driver is paid a living wage and has good conditions... and make sure its not one of them filthy diesels.

Not mine, but fixing friends jap import e90 325. Oil leaks and butchery everywhere

You could solve all this with a jack and a jiggle stick.

Yeah, ive been wearing the google out, found lots of threads however they all dither out without a solution. The Torque Pro forum should be used an example of how not to forum, its entirely spam. Flicked a msg to the dev, no response... Found Btool, another BMW OBD2 app that also has the params figured out for oil temp etc, same as Carly though, it sucks as a "dash"