Surge

Hey after one of these, with the bristles on them.... One from a later e30 with the 4-stage (or is it 5?) auto numbers on it would be great. Pm thanks.

Hey, Rear kit sold to drifty325i, Side skirts offered for $15,500 on trademe - Stupid stuck '0' key on keyboard to thank - Will part with these for offers over $150 If no offers on here in a couple of days, I'll relist on trademe. Cheers, James

Sorry can't reserve these for people, please bid on the auctions if you want any of the pieces - I will re-list if they don't sell. Cheers, James

Mtechnic 1 Rear kit and Side Skirts, Please check out my trademe listings. Also have a WRX spoiler for sale there. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=62191808

$95 to get a master key cut (mobile service) for a prelude I'm using (I lost the only master key) - Which makes brent's option very worthwhile.

Very awesome.. Obviously made sense to move the coil pack to the other side. Certed and all!

12 sided sockets will also remove these bolts, as opposed to the usual 6 sided ones.

I vouch for the cars mintness - and nice panels!

Have any ideas to how these engines are 'base modified' - they already come with nice things factory that I don't think for it's current output could be improved upon - headers etc. How did your friend conrod tackle the compression, it's 10:1 factory which is quite up there for a turbo setup, also the location of the turbo - not as much room as an M10 in terms of palcement due to the engine being closer to the chassis on the exhaust side. I'm removing the cat out of the exhaust system which should help and replacing it with a coby - but at the same time I don't really want to do too much to it as it's only an engine thats going to get me around while my M50 is built up...

I'm putting an M42 into a car that previously had a M10 in it, Not that it matters - I've taken every wire out of the thing and started from scratch!

Aquired this project last night - work has begun and (thanks to all Chris' work) the engine is out and most of the loom - swapping everything (including most panels) to my prefacelift 318i tommorow. Not many prefacelift's with a M42 in them!

Mrhamwallet, http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9A47B49...BAAD8222610.htm I think thats the one.. If it's not it's damn similar. Rather awesome car.

Got the problem sorted via some outside help, but Cruznz had the correct information that was provided to me prior. (Turns out the spade connector wasn't connecting) PM me your account details Cruznz. Now the engine starts, runs for a bit and cuts out - drove it half way home... Going to take it to GAC for a good lookover.

I'm getting aluminium ones in the rear subframe soonish... Not too cheap though!

Wouldn't bother with it myself unless you've got overheating problems. Would the ex transmission cooler within the radiator be any good for cooling the engine oil - or are the lines to thick?

325i is front heavy with the 6 - M3 has engine futher back and therefore rocks my world!

Tubular headers would do that engine a world of good, infact any engine that comes with nasty cast iron pieces factory. Seems almost pointless fixing a problem further down the line when the block is at the top. 4 Cyl headers would be cheap to make aswell.

Ah yes, Totally forgot about that M10.. It's fairly stripped at the moment.. Not much left on it as I've been swapping things left right and centre! Still haven't got that damn thing started in the new car.. The earlier car (with the new engine) has a rectangle plug, the newer one has a round plug (therefore just assumed it was Motronic) - Both L-jet?

So no one has any ideas on this? Fairly desperate for anything to move it forwards!

Since swapping the 86 Early Motronic M10 into the 84 L-Jet (I think it's L Jet) car I've yet to manage to get it to turn over.. I'm using the engine loom with the original computer - onto the later model Motronic engine.. So running L-Jet on a motronic engine - hopefully the changes I made below would have countered any differences. Naturally I'm assuming it's the starter motor - Just wondering on the two bolts, where do the wires go? One on either side or both on one bolt - as per my other car - Red and black on one bolt, also there is a black yellow wire that hooks onto a spade connection - there is two on the starter, but one connection. Is there a quick test that can be done on the starter motor to make sure it's running? Had the problem with fuel supply, the motronic car had 3 lines where as the earlier car had two, I think it has been sorted, just swapped the throttle bodies over to one that doesn't have an additional outlet... (Vapour into the throttle body?) Do the later injectors run on the earlier management? The fuel pump works and pumps fuel when the ignition is turned on. I've swapped the thermotimer sensor over from the earlier engine to the later one, as it had only one connector and the other had two.. Everything else pretty much plugged in. If anyone is knowledgeable regarding this please post up, would appreciate any advice and help - and I'll pay someone $20 to the winning post who gets the car started! :pimp:

Correct, Also have an early Getrag 240 that was mated up to a M20B20

Thats what we like to hear....

The 2.5 is on the backburner at the moment till I get this m10 powered thing out of the garage - We sorted the gearbox out, simply a matter of swapping the torque converter over and the flywheel to the newer engine. The only problem I see now before putting the engine back in is the 86 318i (which this engine is out of) has 3 fuel lines (and subsequently the engine also) and the older 84 318i has two... Anyway around this? I'm presuming the 3 are return, main, and vapour? Help much appreciated!

In the process of swapping the good 1.8 M10 out of my car into my friends sisters car with a shagged M10 - We're having some troubles with the gearbox (the old auto onto my m10) getting it alligned up correctly so the bell housing sits flush with the block. At the moment there is approximately a centimetre gap around it.. I think the inside 'cutout' on the spline is alligned with the notch in the gearbox. Also the spline from the block's vary slightly - one has a thinner longer extension coming from it, the newer one does not.. this however shouldn't block any installation. If anyone could give any words of advice about how to remedy this problem it would be great! By the way can't use the gearbox that came with my car - It's rooted and doesn't go out of 1st. Cheers!

Maybe on the carpet, sorry didn't get to come around today.